Reversible Joinery

[steve jones]

I’m working on a Folkboat (Built in 1961 by Harry Feltham and going by the name Paul Jones)).

In particular I’m looking at deck leaks.

The joinery in the cockpit was a bit suspect so I’ve renewed most of it. This includes a frame for the floor, locker sides and a step up to the companionway to cover the engine.

I’ve had it all together to check for fit and the plan was that I would epoxy it all together. But… It’s pretty solid without any glue and I’m thinking that I may want to remove it again in the future to make other jobs easier. So I’m wondering is there any non setting gloop I could use to help seal the joints? Maybe vaseline, or is there a traditional way of doing this type of thing involving boiled down animal parts?

The other area where I have a small leak is around the shroud chain plates. These are made of slightly cranked bronze flat-bars bolted to the inside of the hull. They have a little bit of movement in them which I will try to reduce by slightly tightening the bolts but I guess they will always flex a bit.

Does any one have suggestions for a compound to use to seal around these?

Many thanks.

 

[jamie N]

Pretty much any of the better known flexible sealants would work, such as Sikaflex, and would pull apart if needed. The same goes for sealing the chain plates.
Any pictures?

 

[Tranona]

Suggest using a non setting sealant such as a polysulphide. This is similar to the type of sealant used when wooden boats were built before waterproof glues became common. Take your chain plates off if there is sign of movement as it is probable the bolts holes have enlarged. Even if the have not they will need resealing also with polysulphide. Arbokol 1000 is the most readily available polysulphide

 

[Wansworth]

Is that boat in Paynes

 

[john_morris_uk]

I find it best not to tighten down some fittings completely when re-bedding them but to let the sealant go off overnight and form a gasket. Tighten down the following day to compress the gasket formed. This is especially true for chain plates that might flex as the boat sails.

 

[Hydrozoan]

I find it best not to tighten down some fittings completely when re-bedding them but to let the sealant go off overnight and form a gasket. Tighten down the following day to compress the gasket formed. This is especially true for chain plates that might flex as the boat sails.

+1 Our helpful chandler gave us that excellent advice many years ago when selling us a polysulfide sealant for the chainplates - using a good sealant merely to squeeze most of it out again does not make sense.

 

[steve jones]

Thanks for all the replies. I'll give that a go.

Here's a picture of the boat. It used to be in Paynes yard but I towed it up to Scotland last summer.

 

[PotatoNavigator]

Suggest using a non setting sealant such as a polysulphide.

Do you mean Butyl? I thought polysulphides did set, just slowly?

 

[Tranona]

Do you mean Butyl? I thought polysulphides did set, just slowly?

No. Polysulphide does thicken but can usually be dismantled easily. You could use Butyl, but I would avoid any of the polyurethane adhesives such as Sika.