kizmax
New Member
restoring 40ft/1937 launch hopefully any help appreciated, she has been out of the water for five years ,and needs a lot of tlc .I intend taking pics to upload if that is possible. Anybody taken anything like this on before.?
restoring 1937 launch 40ft/ 11ton pitch pine on oak gardener 4ltr
- Thread starter kizmax
- Start date
Mirelle
N/A
Pictures will be a great heap. This should be a solidly built boat.
To save flicking back and forth let me reprint here what I said over there:
"Nice engine!
The other very good thing is that she's pre-war, not wartime production, so the materials and workmanship will be better.
Try not to disturb the copper sheathing if you can help it - it's very nice to have.
Has she been covered over whilst ashore?
Basically, it is rain water that causes all the grief on a wooden boat.
The place to start looking hard at is no where you might think - the bottom of the boat will most likely be OK if the decks are OK.
The weak point on these boats is the covering board and sheerstrake where the bulwark stanchions pass through the sheerstrake - you get rainwater drips through the sheerstrake where you don't notice them when you are down below - the rainwater drips onto the beam shelf and rots that and goodbye boat, as it's a huge task to replace that."
Now, it can be done. There are people here who have undertaken similar projects sucessfully.
This may provide some encouragement the owner and sucessful rebuilder posts here from time to time.
To save flicking back and forth let me reprint here what I said over there:
"Nice engine!
The other very good thing is that she's pre-war, not wartime production, so the materials and workmanship will be better.
Try not to disturb the copper sheathing if you can help it - it's very nice to have.
Has she been covered over whilst ashore?
Basically, it is rain water that causes all the grief on a wooden boat.
The place to start looking hard at is no where you might think - the bottom of the boat will most likely be OK if the decks are OK.
The weak point on these boats is the covering board and sheerstrake where the bulwark stanchions pass through the sheerstrake - you get rainwater drips through the sheerstrake where you don't notice them when you are down below - the rainwater drips onto the beam shelf and rots that and goodbye boat, as it's a huge task to replace that."
Now, it can be done. There are people here who have undertaken similar projects sucessfully.
This may provide some encouragement the owner and sucessful rebuilder posts here from time to time.
EASLOOP
Well-Known Member
I had the rotting beamshelf problem. Though I had always considered the sheerstrake as being the top hull plank (opposite the garboard strake, being the bottom plank) and the covering board being the outer deck plank through which the stanchions passed. Although Otty Bird does not have bulwark stanchions the covering board is punctured by the chainplates that finally run down the inside of the hull where they are bolted through an oversize frame member. Water had gotten down this punctured area and rotted the top of the beamshelf and a lengthof covering board. Also, while she lay ignored on a mud berth in Dittisham for a few years rainwater had become trapped inside of the toe-rail. As it lay there (the boat seemed to have spent most of its time leaning over to port) this trapped water managed to permeate the join between the shearstrake and covering board thus rotting out the shearstrake edge, the covering board edge and even more beam shelf.
To try and solve this problem someone had drilled into the beamshelf subsequently flooding the holes with some sort of brittle glue. So that when I tapped it with a hammer the beam exploded in a shower of wood and glue particles. Wonderful.
By removing lengths of covering board I managed to cut out all of the rot and replace it with in-situ epoxy laminated scarfed lengths, about 8' long, of Oregon Pine, to build up the beamshelf to its former glory. I repeated this on the starboard beamshelf to ensure that any reflected stress did not cause damage. The story goes on and on.
What I have learned however is that IF I do this again I will take off the cabin top and remove the entire deck before starting the work. I have managed to do this work without removing great chenks of boat but it is not to be recommended.
The work goes on and on.
Have a brilliant day.
To try and solve this problem someone had drilled into the beamshelf subsequently flooding the holes with some sort of brittle glue. So that when I tapped it with a hammer the beam exploded in a shower of wood and glue particles. Wonderful.
By removing lengths of covering board I managed to cut out all of the rot and replace it with in-situ epoxy laminated scarfed lengths, about 8' long, of Oregon Pine, to build up the beamshelf to its former glory. I repeated this on the starboard beamshelf to ensure that any reflected stress did not cause damage. The story goes on and on.
What I have learned however is that IF I do this again I will take off the cabin top and remove the entire deck before starting the work. I have managed to do this work without removing great chenks of boat but it is not to be recommended.
The work goes on and on.
Have a brilliant day.
Roach1948
Well-Known Member
I had exactley the same problem except on the stbd side. My deck was quite new so taking it off was not an option. Again, I scarfed a new pine shelf in using epoxy. Now the chain plates have moved outboard and the decks are due to be Coelaned so that job NEVER needs to be done again!
EASLOOP
Well-Known Member
I enjoy reading your missives about renovating your boat. Great source of ideas. keep it coming.
EASLOOP
Well-Known Member
Also,
will be very interested hearing from you on the Coelan issue. I did my decks but I did not bleach the teak well enought before I started. Now the dark bits are reaklly dark and the light bits are honey coloured - bummer.
Also, I am not sure about the 'cling film' look.
will be very interested hearing from you on the Coelan issue. I did my decks but I did not bleach the teak well enought before I started. Now the dark bits are reaklly dark and the light bits are honey coloured - bummer.
Also, I am not sure about the 'cling film' look.
kizmax
New Member
Thanks to all for the interesting replies ,I have tried to upload pics but maybe I am doing it wrong/is there an easy way
burgundyben
Well-Known Member
You need to have the photo hosted elsewhere on the cweb flickr/yahoo etc.
then insert a link to the pic between [image] and [/image]
think thats it, if not someone will come along and show how.
looking forward to seeing her,
then insert a link to the pic between [image] and [/image]
think thats it, if not someone will come along and show how.
looking forward to seeing her,
kizmax
New Member
[image]BOAT0036[/image]
burgundyben
Well-Known Member
go the the web page with the picture on, right click over picture and select properties, copy the url, then paste in the message
kizmax
New Member
Hi you can view pics on :
http://groups.msn.com/HappyBoaters
you will see how she used to look and how she is now.
Thanks
http://groups.msn.com/HappyBoaters
you will see how she used to look and how she is now.
Thanks
Forbsie
Well-Known Member
What a lovely boat. It'll be a lot of work, but well with it IMHO.