Replacing sump gasket

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I've finally traced a slight oil seepage to the oil sump gasket of the Volvo MD2010 engine. I know the required torque settings for the sump. What I would welcome advice on is whether the nuts should be tightened in any particular sequence and whether I should add some sealant substance as well as cleaning the join and replacing the gasket with a new one.
 
I think I'd put a thin coating of gasket goo sufficient to hold the gasket in place on the sump,loosely bolt up and do the ends of the sump first,then torqueing to the figures you have, having inspected the block area that leaked for old gasket ,or other possible cause.

I think VicS had a contact URL to download a workshop manual a month or two ago,I should have done so at the time. Perhaps he'll be along shortly.

ianat182
 
9 to 13 NM according to the manual. would be very suspicious of an undisturbed sump gasket suddenly leaking. Examine the joint faces carefully and check for corrosion since the sump pan is steel
 
I'd be surprised if mild overheating caused the sump gasket to leak, but you never know!
Before going to the bother of removing the sump etc. I'd go round the fasteners and make sure that they're all evenly tightened to the correct torque.
 
I think I would agree with the suggestion to just go round all the bolts and nip them up. Don't over-tighten them, you don't want to squash the gasket too much or distort the sump or it will leak, and you certainly don't want to break any of the bolts but its not an joint where I would personally bother to use a torque wrench.

I don't think I have ever seen a recommended tightening sequence for a sump. (although I expect there is for some!)

Workshop manual is at http://www.bluemoment.com/downloads.html but I don't see any mention of refitting the sump.

If fitting a new gasket I would use a very thin coating of a jointing compound just to stick it in place ( Hylomar perhaps, don't know, never used it!)

Some versions have two gaskets with a plate between them 2010A & 2010B

http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-7746800-22-160.aspx

(That makes the whole job of replacing the gasket look a lot more fiddly.)

But not others 2010C and 2010D

http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-7740690-22-4022.aspx

Check for possible leaks around seals before drooping the sump off. Be sure it is the sump joint that is leaking.
 
Yes, it certainly looks more fiddly from the diagram. I thought that it would just be one gasket and nothing else. Are there any other bits and pieces involved, other than the two gaskets? There appears to be some bits and pieces attached to the plate.

I ran the engine for 5 mins today but found no leaks other than what looked like a bit of seepage along the edge of the sump at the rear above where the oil was lying. I've had a hunt around the engine and can find no other trace of a leak.

I hope to go sailing tomorrow if it is not too windy and will have another look.
 
Could well be just vibration thats loosened the bolts a little, thats all it takes to seep a little oil. If you nip them up and it doesnt cure it then a tube of instant gasket from the motorists shop will do fine just make sure you clean the surfaces so that it can get a good seal. I always carry a tube and its got me out of trouble many times.
 
The oil in the sump is not normally under pressure and the gasket will be sandwiched between the bottom of the block and a steel pan. Its difficult to see how this joint could become disturbed even in the unlikely event of one of the bolts vibrating loose or just a bit of overheating.

Your comment about the location makes me wonder about the rear crankshaft oil seal - something which is leaking on my 2030.

Best next step could be to thoroughly clean the engine with Gunk or similar and then powder with talc so that you can see any oil runs down the block with clarity. makes it smell better too!:D
 
re tightening the sump nuts: I've never seen a specific sequence described (as per a head gasket) but if you hand tighten all around then torque up in a couple of stages in an opposites / zig-zag pattern then you will not go far wrong.
 
I don't know whether I am coming or going. I was facing the stern of the boat when examining the engine so the patch of oil was lying under the front of the engine sump tray. I ran my hand around the engine but could find no oil other than the suspicion of a seepage from the sump gasket just above the oil drainage nut. I take it that the front crankshaft oil seal is in that area.
 
I think the only seal is where the crankshaft emerges from the timing gear housing, ie behind the pulley for the alternator drive belt but there are a couple of gaskets behind the timing gear housing that could be leaking just as easily as the sump gaskets

Select your engine from HERE and then you can go to exploded diagrams of all the various parts.

The answer is, as suggested several times above, to clean thoroughly and the watch carefully until you see oil start to appear.

No harm in gently nipping up all the bolts though, including all those holding the timing gear housing
 
Don't know if this is significant, but my engine I believe is the 2010A; when I looked to see the difference there was a possible answer to your leak in that the washer, presumably a crushable copper one was replaced on the 2010B by a 'gasket' behind the drainplug, shown as Item 15 on the exploded diagram; might this be the leaking area after all? Doesn't say what the gasket material is though, so maybe tighten the drain plug a little more?
Looking at the triple layers of sump gasket and metal sheet it looks a prime possible source of oil leaks to me as well!




ianat182
 
Volvo 2030 oil leak

I don't know if this helps but our Volvo 2030 engine has a small oil leak coming from the throttle spindle where it goes into the timing cover. On the 2030 this is on the front left side when looking from the front of the engine.

When the engine is hot it runs down the timing case below the injection pump and gives the appearance that it is coming from the sump joint.

Wipe under the throttle spindle and after running the engine put your finger under the spindle and check if it is coming from here? If it is there is not a lot you can do without the great expense of stripping the whole front of the engine down! We just live with it.
 
Thats #8 in this diagram

15095.jpg


I knew there was something in the back of my mind about an oil leak from the timing gear.

Been mentioned on here before.
 
Throttle spindle oil leak

Beware of this diagram as it is very confusing, the shaft is not going into the correct hole? You will see that there are rubber ring seals on the shafts but they are inside the timing chain casing and therefore you have to remove virtually everything off the front of the engine to get at them.
We have decided to live with the oil leak and wipe it up everytime we check the oil level.
 
Well I didn't think that talc would cure a leak. I dusted liberally around the sump, crankshaft, throttle spindle and oil filter, and went for a sail. Motoring consisted of about 0.5 of a mile out of and another 0.5 mile back into the marina. On return, there was not an oil leak in sight. Perhaps I need to motor further next time, although I have had slight oil leaks before when motoring out and in.
It was a good sail, though, which makes a welcome change this year.
 
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