Replacing Standing Rigging - help please!

ClassicPlastic

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Greetings,

There's a little corrosion on the boom of the Splinter 21 that I've just bought, and I'm looking for some advice and guidance on replacement options...

The mast and boom have a sintered gold coloured finish, and I'm aware that this finish roughly doubles the cost of replacements.

I'm pondering replacing the boom alone, or the whole standing rigging.

So, on the one hand, I can order a full set of new standing rigging, which with the fitting and new bits of string included will knock me back about one and a half times what I paid for the boat...

On the other, a couple of people I chatted with mentioned second-hand rigging, but didn't know sources...

And I'm wondering if there's a good 'bible' I could invest in...

The boat is going to be in the Solent soon, so it's around there that I'm hoping to find suppliers.

(Being a stinkie, and this being my first proper yot, forgive me for not knowing all about these sort of things!)

Thanks for your thoughts!
 

Davolas

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It is not normal to replace masts and booms because of corrosion. At least not unless they are really old or badly damaged. The Gold colour is anodising and when scratched can lead to corrosion, but can be stopped by treatment, there are paints available. Mostly corrosion occurs due to bi mettalic action i.e at rivets or under metal fittings, another cause can be copper ferrules resting against the mast which will eat through very quickly under the wrong conditions.

I am not sure if there is some confusion with terminology in your post, standing rigging is not boom and mast it is the fixed wire which supports it. Shrouds forestay back stay etc. ropes which pull up sails etc are running rigging.

Normal maintenance startegy for a rig would be.

Spars:

Treat any specifica corrosion or damage, use proprietry anti corrosion paste / paint under fittings. wash salt off at end of each season and oil / grease pulleys etc.

Standing rigging:

Inspect for damage, cracks wear etc. Depending on type of boat stress levels type of use etc, standing rigging is usually replaced at regular intervals 5 to 10 years, as it can fatigue and fail at swages which is difficult to detect.

Running rigging:

Wash ropes etc to remove salt, inspect for chafe and damage replace as required. Life can be extended by reversing halyards or shortening by a few inches if they are long enough as wear normally takes place at specific point, arond pulleys cleats etc.

I am not a professional rigger, but have a good general knowledge, if you want any further help or someone to look at the rig when you are in the solent area, pm me.

Regards

Steve
 

ClassicPlastic

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Thanks, Steve, and apologies (if needed) for being under-specific...

The mast, boom, and rest of the standing rigging are about twelve years old, and not in their first flush of youth!

But now, you've confused me, as the forestay, backstay, and shrouds are wire, and therefore, I thought, constitute the standing rigging...?

Also, a couple of definitions of 'standing rigging' that I have seen do include masts, booms, and supporting wires, and there's no doubt (in my mind) that 'running rigging' is ropes, blocks, etc.

In evaluating how to deal with the boom, I pondered replacing the whole lot, and I'm really trying to drill down to an economic way of doing this.
 

Evadne

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If it's any guide to durability, my boats mast and boom are still the original 1963 spars and although a tad tatty, are in keeping with the appearance of the owner /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Replacing the standing rigging is a bit of a contentious issue, as Steve has said, most insurance companies start to get insisten after 10 years. That probably means that this is a "worst case" and if you are careful and look after your rig, e.g. dropping the mast through the windy winter months, inspecting each join and toggle annually for cracks and especially corrosion, then I see no reason why it shouldn't last twice as long. My previous lot did.
Most people would take "rigging" to be flexible and the solid bits to be called the spars. Except where you have rod rigging, but that is getting needlessly complicated. Running rigging moves, standing rigging doesn't.
 

Lakesailor

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I concur with other comments. My little boat has a gold(ish) finished mast and boom that are a bit tatty. But they hold up the sails, so that's fine.
We did have a thread on here about polishing masts(?) but whether he was pulling our plonkers (or his own) I'm not sure.
It did bring some posts from people who claimed to polish spars and even one guy who advocated polishing the standing rigging.
Each to his own.
 

alahol2

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At 12 years old your spars may be 'not in their first flush of youth', but they're hardly middle aged either.20 - 30 + years is not at all unusual for ally spars. If it's purely cosmetic, it is possible to get spars re-anodoised but whether it would be financially viable, I don't know.
 

oldharry

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Unless the mast and boom (the spars) are actually damaged by corrosion - which usually happens at or near the fittings - and are not dented then they will be OK. The finish is largely cosmetic, and if you want to freshen things up, painting is the easiest and cheapest solution. Second hand spars are around, but caveat emptor.

The wire rigging - the standing rigging - can eventually fail, and as has already been said insurers tend to expect this every ten years. The problem with stainless rigging wire is it rarely shows signs of stress before failing, so if there is any question about its condition replacement is the only safe option. Look carefully at the joint where the wire goes in to the end fitting for signs of broken wire strands, or corrosion. Any sharp kink in the wire is supsect, as is any broken strand.

Buying second hand rigging is definitely not safe, unless you know its history. Worse than second hand tyres for the car!

Any of these faults mean a serious weakening of the wire and replacement by a rigging shop.

And no need to apologise for lack of know-how. we were all there once and have made mistakes that we shudder at now... If you do not ask you may end up finding out the hard way - not a good thing!
 

ClassicPlastic

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Many thanks for the help thus far...

I'm now a little more confident in my use of 'standing rigging' to describe wires plus mast and boom, as three books I have to hand back up my usage - but that's by the by.

On a positive note, may I share the joy of my recent 'first solo'....?

To slip the moooring for the first time last weekend, by myself, and get under way, hoist the sails, and cut the engine, and then to enjoy a wonderful run for a couple of hours, was a real pleasure.

I'm not cured of my enjoyment of mobo-ing, but I'm certainly looking forward to a very happy life as a Splinter owner!

I'll take note of all said here - and in fact (given that my other commitments may restrict my time available to enjoy the Splinter) I may look for a co-owner/sailing partner to add to the mix.

One thing I must say: Having helmed a few yachts, the Splinter handles beautifully!
 

William_H

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Just to reiterate the boom should last forever certainly a little surface corrosion won't hurt and can be cleaned and painted over. mine is 25 yo.
More critical is to look for corrosion or use of Aluminium pop rivets under fitting attachments
Stay wires are another matter. I have seen 3 masts lost in as many years at our yacht club due to old wire. If yours is 12 yo it will soon be time to replace the wire. I think the side stays are most critical. The failures I have seen were intermediate shrouds which causes mast to fold in the middle. good luck with your new boat olewill
 

eyupdougdown

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If you go to H W Knights in Plymouth, you can buy Galvanised wire there cheap (Government Surplus), some wires are a set length with a hard eye in each end. Then buy the appropriate hard eyes / swages from a rigger - then go to Mashfords across the water in Cornwall and they'll swage them for you. I replaced the whole rigging on my 31' classic for around £150 total. Beat that. How I laughed when I heard someone had just paid that for one stainless forestay.
 
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