Replacing my halyards

[castaway]

Anyone got any good leads on suppliers of running rigging? Or are there any riggers who would like to under cut the commercial quotes I have been given to renew most of the running rigging on my Halberdier 36ft ketch?

I know I should do the splices myself, but every time I try splice this braid on braid stuff it goes wrong..

Thanks Nick .

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[tugboat]

Suppose it's a silly question, but have you tried getting a quote from Jimmy Green Marine who advertise in all the mags?

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[aitchw]

You could try Joe Taylor.

www.ropeloft.co.uk
0208 4251543
0776 1777083

He is always v. competitive.

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[Robin]

Try Aladdins Cave, often cheaper than Jimmy Green but both advertise in the mags. You may not need to splice all of the lines, halyard shackles for example can be attached with a knot like an angler's half blood knot, I forget what it is called by riggers but it has the advantage of taking less space at the masthead than the taper of a splice.

<hr width=100% size=1><font size=1>Sermons from my pulpit are with tongue firmly in cheek and come with no warranty!</font size=1>

 

[gandy]

"Allropes" in Bristol are cheap and quick for actual rope. They do splicing as well, but I've not used that service myself.

http://www.allropes.com/

Tony Smith

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[vyv_cox]

All my halyard shackles have whipped attachments, rather than spliced, for the good reason that splices won't run through sheaves. Whipping is perfectly serviceable for long term use, I think the youngest of my halyards is about 3 or 4 years old and the oldest probably twice that.

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[castaway]

Vyv... Really showing my ignorance of these things now, but you are saying that placing the cordage around the thimble and simply whipping the end to the standing part would be satisfactory?

If so this is how I set up my 'lazyjacks' and they have worked OK.

What would be the recommended size of whipping cord? Does one use the stuff that Marlow do on a small reel. I think I may try to find a book or site on the subject and do it myself.

Many tks Nick

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[jorinda]

Try the Marlow website and download their splicing info. very interesting.

<hr width=100% size=1>Done swindlering, back to sailing, fishing & photography.

 

[geoffatstanpit]

And if you have the misfortune to let it "go up" there isn't a thick bit like with a splice to jam in the sheave!

So there's at least a small chance of pulling it down again with a coathanger on the topping lift!

Geoff

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[alahol2]

The normal Marlow whipping twine is perfectly good for whipping halyards. I would always sew the 2 pieces together with a few stitches before whipping. Adds another level of security.


<hr width=100% size=1><A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.troppo.co.uk> Follow the Tightwad Sailor</A>

 

[Robin]

Good point. In our case our mainsail is maximum hoist and as the wind increases we use the cunningham to tension the luff from the bottom, because more halyard tension a) takes the sail above the black band, only important if racing and b) takes the splice into the sheave which makes it hard work and as you say risks it jamming. We are about to change to a Dyneema main halyard and will attach it using the half bood knot method, easier to do and we can end for end or trim an end off easily to get maximum life from a very expensive piece of string.

<hr width=100% size=1><font size=1>Sermons from my pulpit are with tongue firmly in cheek and come with no warranty!</font size=1>

 

[ditchcrawler]

I bought all my replacement halyards from London Boat Show at less than half price.They will also splice the eye in for free.I go straight to the rope stand first,buy the pre packed lengths giving them all day to do the splicing.I then pick them up at the end of the day.Excel is good as only 5 mins to the car.

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[vyv_cox]

Yes, I also stitch just as alahol2 says. I have used No 2 and No 4 twine, doesn't seem to make any difference to strength or longevity.

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