Replacing Headlining

[FullCircle]

Hi de Hi
I am going to replace the headlining and bulkhead covering on my 22ft Jouet. Anyone know of a decent supply source in the South Essex area? Would also appreciate any tips for keeping it up there once fitted. I intend to make it in large panels rather than the one piece it is now.
Could also do with some cloth choice pointers for the berth cushions! Anything to remember or avoid?
Failing that...decent trimmer in the area?

many thanks

New to this forum...take pity!

Jim

<hr width=100% size=1>Second Chance - First Love

 

[VicS]

Perhaps not the south east exactly but Hawke House marine in Fareham can supply all the necessary materials and adhesives. The also do a very useful little booklet with hints on doing the job. If you use a solvent (Methylbenzene or toluene) based adhesive an "organic vapours" mask is a must as well as good ventilation.

Toomer and Hayter are also good for cushion fabrics (and suitable thread, zips etc)

The cabin lining subject has been aired on the forum several times before, once fairly recently when I posted their phone number. A search should turn it up without too much trouble.

PBO are promising us an article soon so it might be a good idea to see what they have to say.

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[Talbot]

I assume that you already have the foam backed vinyl, and that replacement is because of the dreaded sag caused by brittle foam. You can get a straight replacement as stated in the previuos posts, or you can use the same stuff mounted on plywood squares which has the advantage that you can easily remove it if you want to get to the deckhead, but does cut down on headroom. However both of these solutions suffer from the same problem. The new foam backed vinyl is made from fire-retardent foam!!! Thsi will go brittle and fail much sooner than the old stuff. I have used felt backed carpet. Many lining specialists advocate replacing the lining in squares (approx. 2' square) which are individually secured to the ceiling. The main advantage is that if you need to resecure anything on the deck above (e.g. winches, genoa track etc) then it is easy. The main disadvantage with this method is that it lowers the ceiling, and it is already slightly too low for me (6'2"). I was unwilling to use the vinyl/foam product because of the cost/expected replacement period. I then thought about using carpet. The foam carpet would probably suffer from the same problem as the existing headlining, however, there is a new (relatively) carpet which is felt backed. I thought this might be suitable and it is also pretty cheap for a lightweight carpet. I then looked at glue. A specialist warned me that most glues used by the lining companies are fine in this climate, but would start to melt if the boat was taken further south. They recommended that the best glue would be that used in the car trade. I then managed to twist the arm of my friendly carpet fitter and his mate to agree to do it. I decided to remove the old lining and the residual glue myself - this is a very messy job, best done with the inside of the boat totally cleared of everything else. I really recommend the dyson for this task! I then (with a lot of help from my son!!) removed the old glue back to clean fibreglass. You can get a flap wheel designed for this from the headlining people, but I used a brass cup wire brush mounted in a small angle grinder - but it must be brass, and the grinder should be running at a slower speed than single speed grinders can otherwise it is very easy to grind down the fibreglass - word of caution wear full overalls and dust mask/glasses. You are then ready to let the fitters do their thing, again it is easier if you remove the windows completely - it also lets you reseal them again afterwards! To make the task possible, the main saloon headlining should be done in four sections, with a piece of wood used to cover the joins (fore and aft). I made the task much simpler by taking the old headlining out carefully and using that as a template for the cuts Apart from the minor problem of the car glue being so strong that it softened the bond between the felt and the carpet itself, this job went very well. The cost of the carpet was less than the glue and about the same as that charged for the fitting. I also purchased new screws for the windows of the next size up to make certain that I had a good fixing - this entailed some small amount of drilling, and a lot of screw cutting as I could not get the right length at the time. The end result is excellent and at a major saving over that quoted by headlining specialists. It is a better insulator, looks better, and should last for a very long time.


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[FullCircle]

Gentlemen I am indebted.I need to maintain headroom as mine is only 5 feet to start with! It is also a brown cloth which is truly 'orrible anyway. It also needs to be made in about 6 sections around mast,forehatch etc. Also need to put a bead or lath around the edge as the GRP inner moulding needs to be covered at the intersection.

<hr width=100% size=1>Second Chance - First Love

 

[colvic]

Hi Jim

I can vouch for Hawke House; they have quite a range of fabrics and headlinings of all types including a vinyl without the foam back, which is easier and neater to fit as well as being cheaper.

If looking for glues in any quantity try Screwfix.com. Their PVA is a fraction of what you can pay elsewhere and sticks the cloth backed vinyl to plywood aheets like the preverbial whatsits to a blanket. They also do a range of contact adhesives.

We used carpet lining on the inside of the hull. Initially we used that supplied by Hawke House, but after a refit we used ordinary SOFT corded carpet which proved very effective. Stuck up with contact adhesive it didn't budge even in temps of over 40 C.

Over the border, just, into Suffolk, their is a firm called Foam Converters at Haverhill who make the stuff on site, in all sorts of grades, and even have a special service for the public on Friday mornings. They'll supply cut to shape and fitted with the stocking net type covering.
Hope this helps



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[MIKE_MCKIE]

I need to replace the boat side PVC lining on my boat in the forecabin as the foam has gone brittle & it looks like Nora Batty's stockings. I have looked at Boaty type vinyl & compared it to normal house type vinyl cushion floor. The cushion floor seems to beat the hell out of boaty type by a factor of lots in terms of costs! Why am I not surprised? It sticks with spray contact glue, and the fitters say "it will not move" although I guess it's a suck it & see jobbie. Apart from the slight limitation of pattern (suitable for a boat interior that is) I can't see a problem.
Anyway, has anyone any comments on suitability of this material for boats?
Ta v m
Mike

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[colvic]

Have only ever used vinyl flooring on the boat as floor covering, and it worked well enough. If you go to the really thick stuff you may have trouble going into some of the corners/curves of the hull/deck moulding.

One tip though, if you do use it, or any other vinyl material for that matter, and you have to cut it into sections, once it has been in place a few days place masking tape either side of the joins and run in a small fillet of SANITARY SILICONE. This wont yellow, is rot and water proof, and gives a really good finished appearance.

Phil

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[mark_sabin]

Jim,

dont know if its too late but in preparation for doing our own headlining, we discussed options with Lucas sailmakers while arranging the laundering of our sails. They advised us to get intouch with Kayospruce ltd of Segensworth. On visiting it we found an aladdins cave of marine material including foam and polystyrene type insulation stuff which is all purchasable on a roll. they do pre-backed vinyl (foam backed that is in wither 4, 6 or 8 mm foam. might be worth a visit or at least contacting them. Web site is www.kayospruce.co.uk

good hunting.

mark

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