Replacing hatch perspex

pragmatist

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Several queries on this - I think the 2 we have are Lewmar (why is it that as soon as you're away from your boat and can't check you suddenly wonder if you're right ?!) - both badly crazed.

Firstly - they are a nice shade of blue - tinted to avoid glare but not grey (dismal in a UK climate IMHO). Does anyone know if this is still obtainable (hatches probably 25 yrs old) ?

Secondly where can one get perspex (even if it isn't blue) ?

Thirdly - this is a boat designed for going places and the design seems to reflect this - however the hatch perspex only appears to be attached by glue or similar. In the unlikely event of a total knockdown would this hold ? We find it slightly worrying (and are practising keeping the boat the right way up /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif).
 

Steve_N

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I had blue perspex in my mid 80s Lewmar Superhatches, but failed to find a colour match at any of the usual suspects (see PBO ads.). Had to settle for the usual grey in the end.

On your third point, if the design is similar to mine, then the hinges and catches are attached to the perspex itself so it is rigidly located when the hatch is closed. The frame can't really go anywhere either even if the bond were to fail.
 

ashanta

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As previously mentioned go to a supplier in your local area. I went to a firm that makes all sorts of things from perspex and acrylics and the make a lot from large sheets which leaves them with off cuts. I bought my perspex for my forehatch which had crazed over the years.
It appears that you have the answer regarding the lewmar design.
Just as a point of interest to those like me who have a more traditional forehatch were by the perspect window is attached by small screws along the 4 sides of the hatch is to use flat headed screws. It's common (even for boat builders) to countersink the holes and use counter head screws. I was advised by the perspex supplier not to do this as this is what main cause of cracks. It doesn't happen immediately but in time the pressure place into the countersink eventually causes it give.
I had a Hunter 26 with side windows and the screws were countersunk and they leaked badly, sadly caused be this method.

Regards.

Peter.
 

dickh

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Another screw solution is to use Button Head Socket Screws, which you can get in Stainless Steel(but with difficulty). They are available from Screwfix, in a Security design, in both self-tapper and machine screws. They are not as proud as Pan Head or similar and have a smooth rounded profile
 

jimboaw

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I have recently replaced my 24x24 fordeck hatch perspex( brand unknown). Took the precaution of having 8 S.S fasteners fabricated to prevent hatch from blowing OUT. Small leaks inward are a minor problem compared to major hatch failure in a roll over situation. I have far more faith in S.S than I have in Sikoflex
 

pragmatist

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Sounds an interesting solution - I don't believe that our fitting is like that referred to by Steve_N (which may be because they're not Lewmar but at 70m distance I can't check) - I'm fairly certain that there are no fittings - certainly nothing showing from the outside /in.

It sounds as though perspex is perspex - i.e. if its a given thickness then its all much the same - i.e. there aren't different types of perspex for different applications. Tell me if I'm wrong /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
 

snowleopard

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Given how quickly Lewmar hatches start to craze it's amazing you can't go to them for ready made replacement glazing.

Mine started to show crazing after 3 years and after 5 it's quite marked. the acrylic windows I put in at the same time are unmarked.
 

pragmatist

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So what should we be looking for ? I don't suppose the local sign maker will have much idea of the requirements for a hatch /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

pragmatist

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Wouldn't know as we've never had a new boat ! These were 19 when we got them ! /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
 
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