replacing halyard question

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duke

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Hi,

I intend replacing my old 14mm halyard with new.

I'm wondering how to connect the two ends so as to pull through the mast
without them possibly seperating in the process?
I'm thinking about using some thinner line to connect both ?
Any suggestions would be appreciated ( except splicing them!).

Thank you,

Duke.
 
You could sew them together with whipping twine, that will reduce the inflexible joint to allow both bits to go round the mast sheaves without jamming.

Mostly, I just use a long tail of insulating tape to holed the bits together, but you must be careful not to overstress it or tears will follow as it parts company.
 
As long as the ends are both well fused or whipped, then just sew them together with whipping twine, making sure it is secure and still flexible to go over the pulleys. Keep tension on the new halyard while pulling the old one. You will of course have to splice an eye on the end for the shackle for the sail. (or cut off the existing eye and pull it through the other way with an eye ready spliced)
 
I did all of my halyards this spring using a new rope sewn onto an old rope, It worked perfectly for 6 halyards. Tape is an option, but a little fraught, I think! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
If you sew a loop into the new line at 1 end (obviasly)and sew the other to that loop ,no over sized bits and no stress point to pull apart. the big advantage of this method is next time 1 loop is already there.
IMHO
works for me ,only takes 2 mins to do and I aint no seamstress.
 
The criteria is that the ropes don't overlap as they will get jammed in the pulleys. I use whipping twine and a needle to sew from about 10mm from the end of one rope to 10mm from the end of the other and don't pull the thread too tight. Frayed ends could eb a prolem but a melted end is best. Provided it doesn't spread the rope in diameter.
A little tape around the join is Ok but must remain flexible and not inclined to jam in the pulleys.

In the end you do the job and take your chances (hope like heck) having another person feed the new rop-e in to minimise load will help.

good luck olewill
 
all agreed , just one more thing put washing up liquid on the join after the insulating tape when feeding in the new line -it makes a big difference from doing it "dry"
 
Hi i asked this very question a few weeks ago,i recieved a variety of answers the best being to sew a loop into each end with whipping twine then tie the two loops togher and pull through,then you have the loops ready for next time.
 
Commonly known as Dutch Whipping.
Instead of tieing the halyards together I would use a lightweight mouse line. Pull it through first then pull the halyard through with the mouse. That way there is less weight on the whipping
 
Have just put 9 lines on and feel like I could write a book on how not to do it! It is definitely worth sewing on the loops with needle and twine right through the rope. Tape is not that reliable.

Also, burnt ends do tend to spread unless you're very careful as you do it; this can be a major pain as you try to ge tthe new burnt end over the sheave. If this turns into a major problem, then use a light (8mm) messenger line on the end of the old line, and feed that through. Then attach (still with stitched etc) to the new line. Then the messenger will take a winch effort, but be less weight on the join.

We did lose rope up inside the mast and I'm about to post a seperate item on our solution!
 
It may be twice the effort to use mouse/messenger lines but it's twenty times less fraut with anxiety and much more likely to succeed. Don't use tape, it's just not reliable enough. Sew if you're not confident in producing a tight whip. A bit of lubricant doesn't seem a bad idea.

David
 
I sew and then wrap with insulating tape.

Remember to cut off the hard eye and connect the new halliard to that end. Otherwise you will discover that you have reeved the new halliard the wrong way around.
 
Yep! sew them, I use strong cotton and take the needle through the end of the line so as not to thicken the joint and leave a 3ml gap between the old and new halyard, never had a problem yet.
 
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