Repairing a PCB ( and posting photos)

>>...............Cars will be the same soon. (if not already in the elctronics)..........<<

Entirely agree and, yes, it's already happened. To my utter astonishment, my BMW dealer needs my car for two DAYS just to change the faulty boot-mounted CD changer!

I just couldn't believe it, but they say they have to re-programme the cars electronics to come UP to the latest CD changer's gizmology or 'they' won't talk to each other and that can take anything from 5 hours to over a day!! /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

The car's less than two years old and under warranty (thank God!) but how can changing so simple a component be so laborious? The march of progress ..............!! /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif

As others have implied here, the same thing is happening to 'marine' electronics and, whilst some can have their sw updated, it's usually only for a relatively short period, then it's 'buy our nice new etc etc'!!

Sometimes makes you wish for a basic set-up with valves and stuff .........!

(Mini rant over /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif)
 
Completely agree, 'jerryat'. As a former commercial pilot, I was always concerned about aircraft fly-by-wire (is software ever bug-free?) and was always pleased to be flying a 707 which had cables and pulleys which you controlled through a joy-stick.

My Cummins 450s have no electronics at all, and are able to be serviced by little ol' me. No diagnostic computers required, none of this 'it has to be serviced by a specialist'.

Brings peace of mind.
 
I have a Ford Mondeo in the UK. It has an electronics fault - periodically the speedo drops to zero and the low fuel warning light comes on. After between 10 seconds and a few minutes it goes back to normal. I have taken it into Ford dealers 3 times. Every time they have no interest in my description of the symptoms, all they know how to is plug it into a diagnostics computer. Every time they say 'no fault found. Forty quid please'! Aaargh.
 
Hey Whipper_Snapper I sympathise with your problem. I also sympathise with the mechanic whom you hope will be able to fix your problem.
I would strongly recommend you put up with the problem and or buy another car.
The only way this problem is likely to be fixed is by replacement of components which are of course quite expensive. This will include replacing the electronic boxes the transducers and even the wiring harness. A car just ain't worth the cost that could be involved in finding the fault.. olewill
 
CaptS. The right hand socket has 6 leads out to the fuel pump and other devices.
The socket next to it is 12 volts in which starts the heater directly. The socket to the left of that with the lead in is power out to the fan. Fan works when given power direct but not via the pcb. When I first looked in the top and noticed the damaged chip I 'poked it a bit' (like you do!!) and the fan came on but then died away.
Thanks again to all. Persevere.
I did get my ECU repaired on my ford probe after trying about 6 different guys. The one who did it listened carefully to the symptoms and went almost directly to the duff componant.
For £50 it was sorted and I had almost been ready to scrap the car!!
 
Hi PC,
The fuel pump and other devices.. hmm, might be a fuel pump issue as this can take a fair pulse.. probably a FET to output the pulse to the pump (Presumings its a similar pulse pump to the Eber et al ????)

Can you read a marking on the other identical looking presumed fets to the left lower of the board ??

If you can, its probably worth a try replacing it.. try to meter which leg (the two lower and the back metal plate of the device) connect to the socket, then find which bit (pump etc ?) this drives, that would help
If you do replace it (I would ) then use first, a 10W, then a 25 watt 12v bulb in series to cause a currect limit on the output external to the box.. this should protect things.
Joe
Joe
 
I agree with beadle. It looks like, and is in the likely position of, the regulator, probably a 7805. Are you absolutely sure the device has never been connected with the polarity reversed? I have seen similar after such an incident with no fuses in the supply.
 
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