repainting cockpit & topsides

[steve yates]

Looking for advice on painting my 18footer; she has had a terrible paint job previously, and it flakes off all the time. I have scraped and sanded, her all over, then done it again.

I think ithe surface is now ready for painting, what would you guys reccomend, and what is the best procedure. I'm not after a perfect look, functional is much more important. I want it to be non slip, and I don't want it to start peeling & flaking like it does now, the flakes bung up my cockpit drains.

Do I undercoat or paint straight on? use special stuff from a chandlery? or go to a builders paint store?

Thanks.

 

[AndrewL]

Last year I painted my deck with International Inter Deck which I was happy with. The main reason for choosing Inter Deck is that there was some unexpectedly good weather and I decided to do it while the sun shone and there was a Dulux trade centre near the boatyard which stocks International paints. There are other, cheaper, brands of non-slip deck paint which I suspect would be just as good.

I did not use an undercoat, although I was not painting onto bare grp. I had scraped off most of the old deck paint, but it was so well adhered it seemed pointless removing it. I then sanded with 120 grit, washed clean and allowed it to dry and then brushed on the paint. No problems so far.

 

[steve yates]

So after scraping all loose flakes of old paint and sanding the old paint down twice, I gave her 2 coats of international deck paint last autumn. Problem is I obviously did a poor job of the prep, as I can now see old flaking areas already.
I need to do it again, and this time am going to change the colour completely.
I had a go at sanding with 60 grit on an orbital sander today, and it doesn't take me down to the layers with flakes I can see. Is this where I am supposed to "Fair" it? Then sand and paint over the top? Same way as I would fill any dents or flakes on the side of a house with polyfilla before repainting?

What is simple to use for fairing?

I did think about removing the lot with paint stripper, but reading into it I doubt any of them now would work properly as they have had the real nasty stuff removed.

I reckon I should resend, fair, ( I do like that word even if I'm not entirely sure what it entails) then paint the nonslip with primer, before putting on 2 coats of pale grey.

Have I got that right? Pics below, second one shows the poor prep

 

[[178529]]

A random orbital sander turned up high with 80 grit paper should get down through layers of paint pretty quickly. Is it turned up ? Most are adjustable.

I would try to get back close to gel coat. There are lots of fairing compounds. West due a good compound is very good but expensive and you need a lot of effort to sand it. You can buy polyester compounds a lot cheaper and easier to sand. Just like car body work you can skim a thin layer over imperfections.

 

[Elessar]

Looking for advice on painting my 18footer; she has had a terrible paint job previously, and it flakes off all the time. I have scraped and sanded, her all over, then done it again.

I think ithe surface is now ready for painting, what would you guys reccomend, and what is the best procedure. I'm not after a perfect look, functional is much more important. I want it to be non slip, and I don't want it to start peeling & flaking like it does now, the flakes bung up my cockpit drains.

Do I undercoat or paint straight on? use special stuff from a chandlery? or go to a builders paint store?

Thanks.

I presume you mean deck not topsides? Not slip topsides are unusual......

 

[Boathook]

Textured masonry paint is good non slip and lasts for 6 plus years and available in a variety of colours. Best cleaning method on old paint is a jet washer. Anything not well stuck down gets lifted off.

 

[michael_w]

I've just finished this job.

After tearing off all the old teak, the decks were filled and faired with West epoxy, Collodial silica and low density filler were added.
Then two coats of Jotun Penguard HB, a high build two part epoxy primer.
Then two coats of Jotun Hardtop HB which gives an eggshell, rather than a high gloss fiinsh.
Lastly, the non-slip areas were given two coats of SML coatings's Marine Deck Paint, with added beads.

All coatings and consumables were supplied by SML coatings who were very helpful and a pleasure to do business with.

 

[STATUE]

So after scraping all loose flakes of old paint and sanding the old paint down twice, I gave her 2 coats of international deck paint last autumn. Problem is I obviously did a poor job of the prep, as I can now see old flaking areas already.
I need to do it again, and this time am going to change the colour completely.
I had a go at sanding with 60 grit on an orbital sander today, and it doesn't take me down to the layers with flakes I can see. Is this where I am supposed to "Fair" it? Then sand and paint over the top? Same way as I would fill any dents or flakes on the side of a house with polyfilla before repainting?

What is simple to use for fairing?

I did think about removing the lot with paint stripper, but reading into it I doubt any of them now would work properly as they have had the real nasty stuff removed.

I reckon I should resend, fair, ( I do like that word even if I'm not entirely sure what it entails) then paint the nonslip with primer, before putting on 2 coats of pale grey.

Have I got that right? Pics below, second one shows the poor prep

What a smashing useful boat that is, she certainly is worth your care - sorry, no help, just wanted to say.

 

[steve yates]

I presume you mean deck not topsides? Not slip topsides are unusual......

yes, sorry.

 

[PhillM]

Topsides look fabulous when painted with Epifanes nautiforte.