Renovating cabin floor

billgray

billgray

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Lives east coast of scotland sails west coast.
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My holly and teak floor is badly in need of restoration. Looked at replacing with new but the price was staggering. So bought 6mm masking tape to cover the holly ( which was not in bad nick) and teak coloured fast dry varnish, only available in satin. This varnish is not suitable for floors and the suggested solution was to cover the lot with yacht varnish. Is this the way forward?
Bill
 
I had holly and teak fitted a few years back and I apply a coat of International Compass when I'm leaving the boat at the end of the weekend when it's afloat. Takes 20 minutes and it's a lovely finish that has never been slippery
 
Never done decks but done a couple of parquet floors. Both times I used a two part flooring varnish, I forget the make, but the floor needed three or four coats which went on of an evening, painting our way out of the room to the stairs. It was touch dry to walk on the following morning. On both instances, it proved hard wearing and reasonably none slip. I can see no reason why it shouldn't work very well on a deck. The stuff I used was similar to this http://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/manns-extra-tough-pro-floor-varnish .
 
The teak/holly floor on my HR was oiled, and I found that a good way of keeping it looking good was lightly coating it with oil now and then, allowing it to soak in for an hour or so, then rubbing the oil off with kitchen roll. It was non-slip, looked good, and very low-maintenance.
 
Clean it up as best you can. As it is flat you can use a sander lightly including the holly inserts. Oxalid acid to get any stains out and coat with floor varnish. I use Ronseal but there are other similar brands. Looks milky as it goes on but dries to a hard satin finish which is very durable and non slip. 3 or 4 coats is all you need and can be done in a day.
 
Tranona said:
Clean it up as best you can. As it is flat you can use a sander lightly including the holly inserts. Oxalid acid to get any stains out and coat with floor varnish. I use Ronseal but there are other similar brands. Looks milky as it goes on but dries to a hard satin finish which is very durable and non slip. 3 or 4 coats is all you need and can be done in a day.
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Beware though, even with proper veneer, the holly and teak is pretty thin...
 
I'm in the process of doing mine at the moment. Westerly used an acid cured lacquer on their boats. My floor was getting tired and I had a leaking prop shaft seal and had some water in the bilges. I wasn't very careful bailing it out and got salt under the lacquer, which meant it wouldn't dry out properly. I have ended up with all the flooring out and home in the garage where I have stripped all the old lacquer with paint stripper, washed it with oxalic acid that has removed the staining and neutralised the salt. I have now given it 4 coats of Morrels acid cure lacquer. I think it is going to put the rest of the boat to shame. The lacquer comes in 5litre cans, so I think I may be doing quite a bit more re-lacquering.
 
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