Removing varnish

[Storyline]

Hi all

Not really qualified to post in this forum as I have a 70's grp Westerly, however she has lovely sapele interior so I hope it is OK to ask for advice here. I am not sure what Westerly used originally to varnish the wood (I think I read somewhere they sprayed it). Anyway it is now looking very tired and I want to remove the coating and start again. Some of the wood is veneered ply and most of the trim is solid wood.

I originally planned to use Removall paint stripper, however after taking advice from the helpful chap at Le Tonkinois I have started scraping it off with a hot air gun and a bahco scraper. Fortunately I had the foresight to start in non visible areas and have now got to a reasonably 'non-gouge' level of skill.

I have two scrapers - one is a flat blade with a long handle and the second has a small triangular blade. So far I have concentrated on flat panels and have kept away from any raised mouldings that surround the panels after realising how easy it is to gouge the joint using the tiny triangular blade.

I have the following questions.

1. When it comes to the raised mouldings which are say 5-10 mm higher than the panel (at a 90 degree angle), am I best using the triangular blade or a tear drop or pear shaped blade. I realise only the sharp triangular blade will give a crisp 90 degree finish but maybe the tear drop one will reduce any gouging. Sapele seems awfully soft at times /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

2. When faced with a piece of moulding which has a rounded edge (beading) I cannot find a blade that has a concave face which would seem to be the best option. If I try using a flat blade I am afraid of gouging the rounded profile. What blade is best for these type of mouldings?

3. How often do I need to change blades?

I hope people can understand what I mean!!

TIA Paul

 

[burgundyben]

The blades will last a lifetime, you've got the best scrapers ever made.

I think Westerley used a satin finish acrylic lacquer.

Those fiddly bits I sand by hand.

Doubtless other will have other opinions.

 

[Poignard]

Personally, I would use paint stripper on the mouldings and remove the softened residue with a toothbrush or nailbrush. Repeat the process, if necessary, and finally clean up with steel wool [stainless or bronze, if you can get it] and white spirit.

It works for me.

 

[Storyline]

Thanks for replies. The Removall paint stripper apparently works by getting under the varnish - not dissolving it like Nitromors. I am nervous that using a wet stripper like this may change the colour of the wood - any thoughts?

 

[Forbsie]

If it does affect the colour, you can always bring it back, or at least even it up, with oxalic acid (a lifetimes supply available from Boots for a fiver).

If you have a lot of other work to do on the boat/house/office, try anything to justify buying a Fein Multimaster. One of the many accessories is a set of profiled sanding attachments that may be useful for dealing with these moldings.

 

[Storyline]

Thanks Forbsie - a Fein is on its way! Justified by all the work I can do on our house with it - honest /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[andrewbodenham]

For detailed work such as you are describing I would use a cabinet scraper (essentially just a rectangle of tool steel) which can be ground to match the profile of the mouldings being scraped. If you keep the edge sharp (fine file or slipstone) you'll probably get the varnish off without using the heatgun, so avoiding the risk of scorching. Cabinet scrapers can leave a great finish once you get the hang of using them - and they're very cheap! A basic bench grinder can be used to get the initial profile, or even an angle grinder. I often use pieces of old saw blades instead of proper scrapers - anything that will take and hold a sharp edge will do.

 

[Storyline]

Thanks bodfish - that seems a good idea. Fortunately most of the beading is the same size and profile so it is worth the effort to make a scraper as you suggest.

This whole concept of scraping is a revelation - it is much easier than I would have thought and the wood feels like glass even without sanding. It is amazing how time flies when I am doing it - must be the level of concentration required which clears the brain of all stress - very therapeutic /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif