Removing Teak Oil Spill from GRP

[thesaintlyone]

So following applying Teak oil to the rub rails or whatever the technical term is I have some spillage/drips on to the GRP.
Now the whole Shiny GRP exterior could do with a nice revamp tho nothing serious just cosmetically looking like its been sitting 10 years
With that in mind what is the best way to remove the Teak oil drips.

Second question to avoid starting another thread. Fitted the Rule 360gph manual bilge pump yesterday and now need to drill through shiny GRP above the waterline. to fit the Thru Hull. Having not done this before are there any tips things I need to be carefull of

Regards

Duncan

 

[macd]

So following applying Teak oil to the rub rails or whatever the technical term is I have some spillage/drips on to the GRP.
Now the whole Shiny GRP exterior could do with a nice revamp tho nothing serious just cosmetically looking like its been sitting 10 years
With that in mind what is the best way to remove the Teak oil drips.

Second question to avoid starting another thread. Fitted the Rule 360gph manual bilge pump yesterday and now need to drill through shiny GRP above the waterline. to fit the Thru Hull. Having not done this before are there any tips things I need to be carefull of

Regards

Duncan

Probably a bit late now, but wipe up drips before they dry and harden. A simpler solution is not to oil

Re the hole:
1. Use a proper holesaw, rather than one of those 'orrible nesting things. Holesaw kits are widely available: often not the best quality but good enough for hobby use. Larger sizes should locate on movable pins, rather than bind tight on a shoulder. For small fittings in thinner GRP, a step-cutter does the job, and is more versatile.
2. Drill a pilot hole. This will deter the centre bit in the holesaw from wandering.
3. Masking tape over the hull will reduce any tendency to flaking the gelcoat, although it's not crucial as the skin fitting will usually cover the visible area.
4. If you want clean edges on both sides, finish the cut from the second side.

 

[Tranona]

When the oil has evaporated on the wood - which won't take long - wipe it over with white spirit, rub it down to clean wood and finish with a proper coating. Oiling rubbing strakes condemns you to forever topping it up and dripping down the GRP. Do the job properly with something like International Woodskin and you won't have to touch it for 3-5 years.

 

[PuffTheMagicDragon]

Re the hole:

I would add:
After drilling the hole, seal the cut edges with resin so as to minimise the risk of water wicking into the fibreglass that has been exposed. No need for epoxy; 'ordinary' polyester resin will do. If you don't have any resin you can also smear the edge with Araldite.

 

[PaulRainbow]

I would add:
After drilling the hole, seal the cut edges with resin so as to minimise the risk of water wicking into the fibreglass that has been exposed. No need for epoxy; 'ordinary' polyester resin will do. If you don't have any resin you can also smear the edge with Araldite.

Thought you said no need for epoxy ?

I'd have thought the liberal application of Sikaflex would seal everything up nicely, if water has been allowed past the outer flange of the skin fitting, enough to get to the layup, it's likely to leak into the boat.

 

[PuffTheMagicDragon]

Thought you said no need for epoxy ?

I was waiting for that! I used "no need for epoxy" because in this case it is not 'essential'.

However, if one does not have 'proper' resin to hand, rather than splashing out €25 for a litre of resin that is not required for other jobs, one can get by just as well with a €5 tube of Araldite.

 

[PaulRainbow]

I was waiting for that! I used "no need for epoxy" because in this case it is not 'essential'.

However, if one does not have 'proper' resin to hand, rather than splashing out €25 for a litre of resin that is not required for other jobs, one can get by just as well with a €5 tube of Araldite.

I got what you meant, couldn't resist though

 

[Gwylan]

Avoiding the drips from teak oil or any other oil I find one of these really useful

http://www.caraselledirect.com/_/di...n3q7CaQ6kaTKSsxwcH6yPIostruPGiCOJuBoC7dbw_wcB

First reference I could find. Usually in the pound shop or similar. Works a treat, you can chuck the pad away when you've finished and keep the handle. Controls the flow well and means you do not have an open pot for some twerp to come along and knock over.

 

[lpdsn]

Removing teak oil drips: white spirits and B&Q (or similar) scouring pads (the ones they warn you not to use on dishes).