Removing staunchions

[Bodach na mara]

or however you spell them. Mine are stuck solid in the allow socket bases. They are a mixture, some alluminium and some stainless but nearly all stuck firmly. How do you get them out? I have tried the kettle of boiling water over the base trick but it didn't work.

<hr width=100% size=1>Ken Johnson

 

[dickh]

With great difficulty! If they are the sort of stanchion base that bolts to the aluminium toerail and then a bolt thro' the deck and base of the toerail - it seems like the only way is to destroy the base by drilling holes all round, drilling out the stainless screws, then fitting new bases and possibly new stanchions. Make sure you addan insulating strip between the stanchion and the base and coat the ss screws in Duraloc. I'm just about to do mine on a Moody 33.
Look at <A target="_blank" HREF=http://ttp://www.moodyowners.org.uk/Members/Library_Frames/Library_frame.htm>http://ttp://www.moodyowners.org.uk/Members/Library_Frames/Library_frame.htm</A>

<hr width=100% size=1>dickh
I'd rather be sailing... /forums/images/icons/smile.gif

 

[owen]

agree with dickh impossible to remove without destroying the base and stanchion. they are effectively welded together and no amount of chivying will get them apart. i have replaced a couple of mine where the through hull bolt was accessible but have not yet attempted any others as it seems i will have to dismantle half the cabin to get at the bolts. how have others tackled the problem and is it possible to use a long self tapper thro the bottom of the new stanchion base?

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[asj1]

Agreed - it is virtually impossible. I tried mine on a newly acquired but neglected boat. As I was going to have the headlining replaced anyway and access was terefore available to the deck underside I decided to have the stanchions replaced at the same time (and at the same time have the rubbing strake all replaced) not cheap but hopefuly won't have to do it again. In fact I will always remove them at least once a year, and possibly store on board in the winter.
I am thinking of using plastic screws to hold the stanchions into the base, as it was the stainless bolts which were one of the problems before.

<hr width=100% size=1>Andrew

 

[floatything]

Just a thought - could you not hacksaw them off at the top of the base, then drill / saw out the bit that is left in the hole. I appreciate that this will shorten your stanchions slightly - but maybe that is preferable to scrapping the bases - or am I barking (up the wrong tree)


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[tim3057]

What's Duraloc? Superglue?

<hr width=100% size=1>Wayfarer Woodie done, now I need a new fix..

 

[AndrewB]

The drilling out operation will be all but impossible if the stanchions are stainless.

I've just tackled this problem by cutting off the stanchions an inch above the bases, then hacksawing vertically downwards to about half the depth of the base, using a chisel to open the stanchion base slightly, and then wrenching the remainder of the stanchion out. The bases were then tapped back into shape and the cut repaired by welding (mine are steel). This has done surprisingly little damage to the base, and an alternative to welding would have been to make an epoxy repair along the cut, then fix a jubilee clip around the top of the base to hold it firm.

This approach certainly beats all the work that would have been involved in taking down headlinings if I'd replaced the bases.

Incidentally we could have re-used the shortened stanchions, but have opted to replace them with new lengths of 316 stainless steel pipe, re-using the original fittings. The cost of these was about one-quarter that of buying new stanchions.

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[Skysail]

I'm afraid the Moody Owners Technical Library link will not work unless you are a member.

'Duralac' is a zinc chromate jointing compound which helps to prevent stainless screws and aluminum forming a permanent bond. Also used in rigging when a SS fitting is riveted to a spar.

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[jkim1]

You can drill them out. Its a long task but it can be done. I used a holesaw and a slow drill with lots of Rocol cutting fluid. You will have to plug the hole first. It may prove easier to buy a load of SS poles and feet which are available on the YBW Compass site. I would try to drill them out first as they are not easy to get at.

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[Marsupial]

A horrible job, not impossible though. I have seen it done with the stanchon base still on the deck but do not suggest you try it like that for fear of pulling the base off the deck.

The solution involves big pieces of timber, bolts and a car jack.

It may be cheaper to buy new deck hardware, if not PM me I will send you a diagram.


Cheers



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[ponapay]

I got mine out using

hot vinegar and judicious application of torque and heat.

It took about 45 minutes for each stanchion but they came out cleanly and have been refitted without problem.

Good luck patience pays off.

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[Shakey]

I got one out by parking my flotilla lead boat alongside a 500 ton day tripper boat.

When the tripper boat left there was a very loud crack and lo and behold one missing stanchion and a nice square hole in the deck where the base used to be!

The Greek crew even smiled and waved afterwards!

It's easy when you know how!

<hr width=100% size=1>It could have been worse - it could have been me.

 

[Nauti Fox]

You could always lend your boat to Oldgit,Fred found a handy Island on the Thames and removed his quite easily I understand!

<hr width=100% size=1>No dear,the water goes in the other one.

 

[dickh]

NO - NOT SUPAGLUE!!! Duraloc is a yellow type paste that acts as an insulator/corrosion inhibitor between different metals - specifically stainless bolts and alloy. Obtainable from chandlers, a tube lasts a long time. Liberally coat the screw & nut with it before bolting together, and wipe off excess. Used in aircraft construction to prevent corrosion between dissimilar metals.

<hr width=100% size=1>dickh
I'd rather be sailing... /forums/images/icons/smile.gif