Removing painted name from hull gelcoat

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outtametree

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So I've registered my boat with a different name & now need do the same for the boat itself. Does anyone know of a way to remove the sign written name from the gelcoat aside from careful sanding or repainting the hull? A product for GRP along the lines of nitramoors, for example?
 
is the signwriting in fact a vinyl sheet ? If so, then a hair dryer will soften it, and help removal. After which you will need Farecla or similar to bring the protected area to the same condition as the surrounding one.


If real signwriting, then I have no direct experience of paint removal from GRP.
 
outtametree said:
So I've registered my boat with a different name & now need do the same for the boat itself. Does anyone know of a way to remove the sign written name from the gelcoat aside from careful sanding or repainting the hull? A product for GRP along the lines of nitramoors, for example?
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There are various paint strippers available, international interstrip being one. When I removed ours, I used some 1500 wet and dry to remove the paint and the cut and polished the gelcoat.

You will also need to make an offering to Neptune...:D
 
outtametree said:
So I've registered my boat with a different name & now need do the same for the boat itself. Does anyone know of a way to remove the sign written name from the gelcoat aside from careful sanding or repainting the hull? A product for GRP along the lines of nitramoors, for example?
Click to expand...

rather depends on what paint has been used

A paint stripper suitable for GRP. Nitromors may be now as I think it may no longer contain methylene dichloride.

A caustic soda based stripper such as "Marine Strip", formerly "Dilunett" provided its an ordinary oil based paint.
( make your own with caustic soda and wallpaper paste!)
 
I removed a painted graphic from the transom with acetone. Quite a slow job but it all came off eventually. Finally I polished the gelcoat with Farecla fine grade and there's no sign of the graphic now.
 
Thanks for the fast replies, several things to try. I've no idea what paint has even used, the previous owner had it done. I would hazard a guess at 15 or 20 years ago possibly longer as the boat still bears its original name.
 
outtametree said:
Thanks for the fast replies, several things to try. I've no idea what paint has even used, the previous owner had it done. I would hazard a guess at 15 or 20 years ago possibly longer as the boat still bears its original name.
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Even after you remove the painted name, it will still show, as the gelcoat under the name would not have eroded like that open to the elements.

The original name is still visible on our boat, at the bow and transom, if you look at the area in a certain direction.

Our previous boat had the same problem with erosion outside the name.

It will take a lot of rubbing down with different grade paper, cutting pastes, and polish to get it out completely. Don't use a fast buffing pad as it will tend to melt the gelcoat. Even a vinyl graphic name will leave a slight rise where it had been adhered.
 
Right.

I've chipped in with this several times. Nobody responds.

Would you please try it and then back me up.

Soak a cloth in Persil Bio clothes washing liquid.

Cover the paint. Tape cling film over it to stop it drying out. Go home.

Come back a few days later. Remove tape, film and cloth.

Push paint off with a sharpish wooden edge.

Offer a prayer up to boguing and polish out the effects of Sun under the paint.

Report back.




I painted thirty or forty bits of a bike with various primers, and then Hammerite.

Left project alone last Summer for three months. Didn't like the finish (actually my Sons' bike and he did his first spray job), runs and sags..

Hammerite is now three months warm cured. 50/50 Persil/Water at 100C, paint lasted ten minutes. Floated off.

The bits I couldn't boil I did the above with. Left them for a week and the paint slid off.

Since then I have discovered that is a really evil (in a good way) cocktail.

Haven't yet tried on two pack types. But I will be.
 
As a previous reply said - spray on oven cleaner.
I've done it; more than once; and on my own boat too!
There's no sanding afterwards, or grinding.
Just a few scrapes with an old credit card and a rub down with a cloth.
sam :-)
 
boguing said:
Right.

I've chipped in with this several times. Nobody responds.

Would you please try it and then back me up.

Soak a cloth in Persil Bio clothes washing liquid.

Cover the paint. Tape cling film over it to stop it drying out. Go home.

Come back a few days later. Remove tape, film and cloth.

Push paint off with a sharpish wooden edge.

Offer a prayer up to boguing and polish out the effects of Sun under the paint.

Report back.




I painted thirty or forty bits of a bike with various primers, and then Hammerite.

Left project alone last Summer for three months. Didn't like the finish (actually my Sons' bike and he did his first spray job), runs and sags..

Hammerite is now three months warm cured. 50/50 Persil/Water at 100C, paint lasted ten minutes. Floated off.

The bits I couldn't boil I did the above with. Left them for a week and the paint slid off.

Since then I have discovered that is a really evil (in a good way) cocktail.

Haven't yet tried on two pack types. But I will be.
Click to expand...


Interesting, not heard of this one, but will be trying it.

If it doesn't take it'll be the oven cleaner. How long should it be left to soak?
 
I found that a painted-on name could largely be removed by careful use of a sharp scraper with final finishing using fine sandpaper. It's quicker than just sanding and much less messy than using stripper.
 
boguing said:
Right.



Would you please try it and then back me up.

Soak a cloth in Persil Bio clothes washing liquid.

Cover the paint. Tape cling film over it to stop it drying out. Go home.

Come back a few days later. Remove tape, film and cloth.

Push paint off with a sharpish wooden edge.
Click to expand...

I suppose it is too much to hope that this would work on anti-fouling?
 
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