Removing outboard

Rodg98133

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Just a couple of quick questions. I am taking the engine off. Does the steering hose just unbolt? Is it hydraulic or is there a cable? Am i better disconecting the throttle wires at engine end or control box end? Also am i going to need an engine hoist to lift it or will 2 lads be able to lift it? (Suzuki dt85 2stroke)
 
I disconnected my Evinrude at engine end - gear selection, throttle cable, power & multi-plug. Steering on mine was cable - again disconnected at engine.

I'd recommend either a hoist or prepare where you are putting it in advance! They are very heavy and top-heavy/awkward to carry. I could just do the 30HP on my own, but also have a 65HP and that's tricky with even two - lifting up into the back of the Land Rover when I bought it isn't something I'd want to do too often! :o Once clamped to a sack-truck or similar however I can move around on my own.
 
Just a couple of quick questions. I am taking the engine off. Does the steering hose just unbolt?

Yes
If you have a 'steering' hose as you mention
It leads me to the next answer






Is it hydraulic or is there a cable?
You may have a hydraulic pump at the steering end, driven by a 'Teleflex' type cable to a hydraulic ram at the engine end
'Eyeballing' this set up should be easy




Am i better disconecting the throttle wires at engine end or control box end?

Engine end




Also am i going to need an engine hoist to lift it or will 2 lads be able to lift it?


Pends on the size of the Lads!

(Suzuki dt85 2stroke)
:D
 
How do you mean eyeball the steering?

Is there anythig i should do before removing it to winterise the engine as it will be sat in my shed over winter?

Is it just a case of unbolting the red steering hose? I can take a pic tmoro if it would help?
 
You can lift an 85'er manually (thieves can!) but if you want to do it like a pro get a lifting eye to fit to the flywheel bolt.

Outboards are designed to be easily removeable by disconnecting at the engine. Plain bolt off or disconnect. Parts are standardized - steering isn't made by engine manufacturers but by companies like Teleflex Morse to fit all engines.
Older engines may have special steering-to-engine connectors, commonly bolted on

Guess your connecting rod looks like this
mK-sLAH8B_zQfMGK7rDQCHg.jpg




You're bound to need info on parts etc., http://store.brownspoint.com/ is a good place for that.

Before throwing money at this engine, make a total budget for the project. Unfortunately they do not hold their value (as more modern outboard designs do).
 
Just a couple of quick questions. I am taking the engine off. Does the steering hose just unbolt? Is it hydraulic or is there a cable? Am i better disconecting the throttle wires at engine end or control box end? Also am i going to need an engine hoist to lift it or will 2 lads be able to lift it? (Suzuki dt85 2stroke)

easy enough job to do. if you don't have a engine hoist i would suggest some blocks of wood under the skeg to take the weight of the engine so it can be balanced when you unbolt it, make sure there is 2 people to do this as there is little to uses as hand holds.

before you start to unbolt the outboard i would disconnect the wiring looms and gear
/ throttle cables etc and make sure these are clear, then disconnect the steering cable control arm, at this point turn the steering to pull the end of the cable in as far as possible. If you now undo the ALLOY nut at the point where the red cable goes into the outboard you may be able to pull the steering cable out of the tilt tube, most of the time this is not possible due to the shape of the outboard well so you can only remove the cable once the outboard is unbolted from the boat this is wear a engine hoist really helps.

good luck

steve
 
Have bought myself a big sack truck today to transport it/store it for the winter. Have disconnected the throttle cables and the electrics so just got to disconnect the steerig tmoro then me and a mate are going to lift it off onto the truck.
 
Also as i asked before is there anything i should do to the engine to winterise it before i remove it or can everything be done on the sack truck?
 
The boats on my drive but i am painting it, adding some electrical system to it and building a new interior so want it all stripped down to work on it properly.
 
Also as i asked before is there anything i should do to the engine to winterise it before i remove it or can everything be done on the sack truck?

IMHO the most important thing is to ensure no water remains in the engine that can freeze and protect against corrosion. Normally water will drain out anyway with the outboard upright, but I always restart for 5-10 seconds (no longer) after removing from muffs or water tank. You can spray fogging oil into the carb and stall on it to coat the internals, but I've not bothered previously as there's always the odd few days that's nice to go out! Instead I run it occasionally through the winter - picking a dry day with minimal chance of frost - and doing early in the day so it has ample time to drain/dry before low night temperatures. It's also recommended to clean and coat the engine with a protective oil, but again I do this periodically through the year anyway. I personally think regular running is as good as winterising, but others will disagree and if you know you're not going to use it then winterising makes sense. If so, I'd drain the fuel from the carb too as most of the problems I've had with ours in the early days was a blocked idle jet or similar. Covering any exposed electrical connectors to prevent corrosion might save some tricky fault finding next year too. :rolleyes:
 
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