Removing Fairline steering wheel

Well done! Fully agree with your choice of confectionery... :D

HaHa, I had to reward myself somehow - to get this seemingly simple task done I have bought a whole new socket set, a torque wrench, a steering wheel puller kit, a 6" gear puller and a lump hammer and three different trips down to the boat!!
 
HaHa, I had to reward myself somehow - to get this seemingly simple task done I have bought a whole new socket set, a torque wrench, a steering wheel puller kit, a 6" gear puller and a lump hammer and three different trips down to the boat!!

There is a small "key" and i assumed when i did it that there is dissimilar metal types leading them to just fuse together.

Mine is a 2004 boat, so in fairness it had been bolted together for 13 odd years of rain, heat, salt and the like.
 
I think that the new wheel definitely makes it look more modern, but I don't like the fact that my already restricted review of the MFD is now a wee bit more restricted by thicker spokes / rim of the new s/wheel (but the very limited dash space on T34's kind of makes this unavoidable, particularly as I didn't want anything fixed to the top of the dash).

Dan, as you know I'm a bit of a purist but the positioning of the original MFD is abysmal (would a car maker put a sat nav behind and below the steering wheel?). My boat came with a second MFD mounted on a scansrut bracket and it's now perfectly positioned (just below eyeline when standing up). You can still access the chart table too.

In your shoes, I would add a second MFD like mine and use the existing MFD for radar, as a backup or better still to display engine stats using one of those clever things that plugs into the EDC units.

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The Raymarine Axiom unit I had fitted last year does split screen so that the more visible left hand side of the screen can show one function and the right hand (partly behind wheel) can show something else. I tend to have the left hand side on the chart at closer range and the right hand side zoomed out a bit (not really had need for using radar or fishfinder yet but I could use those).

Not ideal visibility I agree, but when I bought the boat it had a huge Furuno MFD unit on top of the dash and probably because of this I wanted it all to look more 'factory fit'. I'll see how it goes during this coming season.
 
There was a blanking plate when I bought the boat so not sure what was there for the cut out behind it. Assuming that the cut out was for the original plotter, the 9" Axiom unit that I have would just have fitted, but the installers preferred to have a new mounting plate fabricated. This allowed the Axiom to be fitted on top of that and sealed tight, quite a neat job they did.

The radar unit I have is one of the new Raymarine Quantum units, but I'm pretty sure that an older Raymarine radar would work with the Axiom.

I've just updated the software on the Axiom and also the Navionics Platinum card that I have. Quite impressed with it, the Auto-route function will be helpful and the Raymarine iphone apps are useable (in fact this might solve a visibility issue as I have an iPad Pro which will mirror what is shown on the Axiom display over the wireless network - so if I can find a decent iPad Pro mount, I can have a large screen more at eye level like yours mounted on the hand rail).

There is tons of functions on the Axiom that I'm not using - engine / fuel data would be good (but needs an additional device - a Yacht Devices YDES-04 J1708 Engine Gateway, about £250 per engine - to convert data from KAD300 to be readable by the Raymarie MFD's), and linking up IP camera's and audio control might be something do in the future.
 
Dan, that would work well and I'm sure that scan strut do an iPad bracket that would work.

Incidentally, I'm back on the case with new OEM look rocker actuators. I think you expressed an interest in them so will let you know when I've got a price.
 
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