Removing an AD41 (maybe)!

RobWales

RobWales

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Gran Canaria
www.3ksengineering.com
Hi All,
Having had a good look over my Relcraft 23 project at the weekend I'm toying with the idea of lifting the engine out allowing me access to clean and paint the bilges while also being able to check and refurb all the ancillary mechanicals.
Can anyone point me to a document or thread which outlines the removal procudure please?
Thanks, Rob.
PS have started the strip down on the boat and will update my refurb thread with pics and details soon.
 
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Rob
Mike Bellamy at lancing Marine used to publish a guide to removal of outdrives and engines.
As far as I remember....
Remove the outdrive leg...
release the tab washers now visible and remove 8(?) bolts now visible that clamp to the bellhousing.
Disconnect fuel and electrics to engine
Disconnect engine mounts
lift engine out.
 
tico said:
Rob
Mike Bellamy at lancing Marine used to publish a guide to removal of outdrives and engines.
As far as I remember....
Remove the outdrive leg...
release the tab washers now visible and remove 8(?) bolts now visible that clamp to the bellhousing.
Disconnect fuel and electrics to engine
Disconnect engine mounts
lift engine out.
Click to expand...
Ah....so does that mean that the complete drive assy needs to come out? ie the transom shield etc....
 
No, just release the 6 bolts in a ring on the outside, then the whole engine has to go forward about a foot or angle upwards if there isn't much room in front of the engine.
The other method is remove all the bolts around the flywheel cover at the back of the engine, the one behind the exhaust downpipe is a bit tricky, then you just remove the engine while leaving the drive in place as there is a short splined shaft going into the damper on the flywheel, a bit like a gearbox into a clutch on a car.
 
spannerman said:
No, just release the 6 bolts in a ring on the outside, then the whole engine has to go forward about a foot or angle upwards if there isn't much room in front of the engine.
The other method is remove all the bolts around the flywheel cover at the back of the engine, the one behind the exhaust downpipe is a bit tricky, then you just remove the engine while leaving the drive in place as there is a short splined shaft going into the damper on the flywheel, a bit like a gearbox into a clutch on a car.
Click to expand...

Thanks SM, having only approx 6" infront of the pulleys I guess it would be an angle up job, don't fancy trying to access the f/w bolts as its quite a tight space....
 
Some body forgot to tell you that the refit is a right PIA, I.E lining up. If your going to do it remove the drive and transom shield, Mark your engine bearers, height and line, so that refit will line up, and god willing the transom and leg will do the same. Better still if you know the machinery is working properly, then paint round it.!
 
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i would do the flywheel bolts rob, i have done this twice on my old boat with it still floating.. it really is a simple straightforward job. just pull the main 12v plug, diesel lines , undo engine mounts and she's out.. took me about an hour, and that's a novice.
 
solitaire11 said:
i would do the flywheel bolts rob, i have done this twice on my old boat with it still floating.. it really is a simple straightforward job. just pull the main 12v plug, diesel lines , undo engine mounts and she's out.. took me about an hour, and that's a novice.
Click to expand...

Thats interesting based upon what Omega2 just posted!......need to re-evaluate the access situation then I think....cheers for the heads up:)
 
Hi,
I am in the process of doing this at the moment.
Going the disconnect at bell housing route as boat still in water.
References to the "tricky bolt" between the bell housing and the exhaust pipe are understated to say the least!! In fact it is the one single thing preventing my extraction from proceeding. ( I am in the process of making an 18 inch long 14mm spanner that should (or might) do the job).
It is only the access issue that makes the job difficult, and for me, working under the cockpit floor over hang, removing the turbo, air filter and intercooler have made the access not only possible but fairly easy.
Not sure I would consider doing this just to clear the bilge out though!!
 
dpb said:
Hi,
I am in the process of doing this at the moment.
Going the disconnect at bell housing route as boat still in water.
References to the "tricky bolt" between the bell housing and the exhaust pipe are understated to say the least!! In fact it is the one single thing preventing my extraction from proceeding. ( I am in the process of making an 18 inch long 14mm spanner that should (or might) do the job).
It is only the access issue that makes the job difficult, and for me, working under the cockpit floor over hang, removing the turbo, air filter and intercooler have made the access not only possible but fairly easy.
Not sure I would consider doing this just to clear the bilge out though!!
Click to expand...

Thanks, though its not just a case of clear/paint the bilges!
I want/need to fit a decent bilge pump,fit new trim/tilt pump (as supplied by a fellow on here at an excellent price, cheers Stu),remove rebrush test and repaint starter motor, remove and clean oil cooler, remove rebrush and test alternator, clean charge air cooler, clean intercooler, change impellor, and fully inspect steering ram incl pipes etc (see Gary thread for reasons why), so while out a nice clean re-painted bilge is the answer....
Working upside down in a confined space is not my idea of fun hence for ease of access and peace of mind knowing that all systems have been sorted is the way forward I reckon....:)
 
RobWales said:
Thanks, though its not just a case of clear/paint the bilges!
I want/need to fit a decent bilge pump,fit new trim/tilt pump (as supplied by a fellow on here at an excellent price, cheers Stu),remove rebrush test and repaint starter motor, remove and clean oil cooler, remove rebrush and test alternator, clean charge air cooler, clean intercooler, change impellor, and fully inspect steering ram incl pipes etc (see Gary thread for reasons why), so while out a nice clean re-painted bilge is the answer....
Working upside down in a confined space is not my idea of fun hence for ease of access and peace of mind knowing that all systems have been sorted is the way forward I reckon....:)
Click to expand...

If you had said that in the beginning you would not have heard from me. You may as well take the sump off and see if the oil is clean!! while your at it.
 
RobWales said:
Thanks SM, having only approx 6" infront of the pulleys I guess it would be an angle up job, don't fancy trying to access the f/w bolts as its quite a tight space....
Click to expand...

If you only have 6" in front you will struggle with the angle up method as the front of the sump will hit the bulkhead, if you undo the flywheel cover bolts then 6" is plenty of room, you go forward about 3" then vertically up. I know lots of boats running around without that tricky bolt fitted as its a PIA to refit, but its no problem as there are about 10 others holding it all together. Best tool for that bolt is a ratchet spanner.
While the motors out it might be worth while cleaning the oil cooler and heat exchanger, and check the bottom of the oilpan for rust as this can be a problem on older engines.
 
Removing the two coach bolts that hold the engine mounting pads to the engine bearers and then lifting the engine complete with the pads, then on the assumption its aligned correctly now, it should go back correctly aligned.

Good Luck

Eddie
 
Pendana said:
Removing the two coach bolts that hold the engine mounting pads to the engine bearers and then lifting the engine complete with the pads, then on the assumption its aligned correctly now, it should go back correctly aligned.

Good Luck

Eddie
Click to expand...

I kinda subscribe to that ethos too Eddie, however when dropping the unit back in I would assume it prudent to check the alignment is spot on?
So...how do you achieve that?...what is the correct alignment method...(anybody)?
 
Got to admit I don't know the alignment procedure, perhaps it's not as critical as it is with shafts; as once it is clamped to the transom shield the output shaft goes straight to the UJ on the sterndrive... one for the professionals I think!
 
If it is a Volvo Penta 280/290 'Swedish Drive' then the alignment is not that critical if you are taking the flywheel housing and block in one assemblyand lift it out at an angle method. There are four flats on the flywheel housing which should be equidistant from the transsom shield when you pop it back in and line it all up. Not of course a problem if you adopt the flywheel housing off the block method.
 
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