refurbishing an anti-syphon cooling water vent

[MM5AHO]

Any hints on refurbishing my old water vent. On the seawater cooling circuit, it breaks the possibility of back syphoning into the engine.

 

[VicS]

What type.

Remove/dismantle the valve, clean and replace any defective bits if parts are available for it.

Consider removing the valve altogether and converting it to the type that pees into a cockpit drain, where it can be seen, or overboard

 

[pappaecho]

If you refurb the existing device do the following test.

Remove the outlet from the cooling circuit where it enters the exhaust elbow, and secure it temporarily at the same height. Switch on the seacock.

Go and make a cup of tea. If 20 minutes later it is dripping , then your anti siphon valve is u/s. Goto plan B = get a new one.

If there is no dripping, then the valve is opening correctly and the siphonage loop is broken. Give it a few hours to make sure

 

[PetiteFleur]

I removed my valve innards completely and just led a 'pee' hose to the transom. As long as it's 'peeing' when motoring that's fine and no valve to clog up.

 

[pappaecho]

My pee hose locked with salt... dont go there!

 

[VicS]

My pee hose locked with salt... dont go there!

The point is that while it pees you know it is all clear and working.

You dont know if the valved type is working or not .... until its too late

 

[PlankWalker]

My little brass elbow just above the cockpit drain has piddled faultlessly for 15 years.

Not only can you tell its flowing, but with one finger you can tell when its up to temperature, and wash your toes in warm seawater.

 

[Ruffles]

The point is that while it pees you know it is all clear and working.

You dont know if the valved type is working or not .... until its too late

The valve should have a pipe attached to keep any leakage clear of the engine. (This pipe should end above any bilge water for obvious reasons). Blow gently into the pipe and it should admit air. Suck and it should stop. I check mine every time I check the engine.

 

[VicS]

The valve should have a pipe attached to keep any leakage clear of the engine. (This pipe should end above any bilge water for obvious reasons). Blow gently into the pipe and it should admit air. Suck and it should stop. I check mine every time I check the engine.

The pipe should not go close or or below the water line, ceratinly not into bilges or you risk not only creating a syphon , slowly filling the bilges, but probably stopping the correct syphon breaking as well.

 

[Ricd]

The valve should have a pipe attached to keep any leakage clear of the engine. (This pipe should end above any bilge water for obvious reasons). Blow gently into the pipe and it should admit air. Suck and it should stop. I check mine every time I check the engine.

That's a nifty tip...

 

[Ricd]

The syphon is a bit like Schrodinger's cat...!