Refurbing Tufnol Cleats...

[KevO]

My circa 1972 tufnol cleats are perfectly sound but are looking a little jaded. I don't want to make a rod for my own back by using something that actually makes them look worse 3 months down the line or something that requires constant stripping and redoing but is there a way of 'freshening' them up to make them look smarter again?

I'm sure I read something on an old thread once but I seen unable to find it now...

 

[Rossynant]

Treated mine with linseed oil. Same age and weathered. More to protect from those awfull green algae of your climate for winter, but I treated tufnol blocks this way times long past, since it is good for lines. Oil, not any varnish or other treatment. But stuffs like "teak oil" or such may be used, won't harm them.
Oiled will look much darker, but surely smarter, more like old oiled teak.

Lanolin also protects tufnol nicely, if you prefer non-hardening finish.

 

[knuterikt]

Treated mine with linseed oil.

Raw or boiled linseed oil?

 

[LittleSister]

On a boat we bought the Tufnol cleats looked tired and were also covered in green algae and dirt. I was really surprised how much better they looked after a quick going over with a stiff brush. I suspect that a further quick rub with some fine glasspaper, or wet and dry, would really smarten them up.

 

[KevO]

Thanks all... I'll report back in due course...

 

[Rossynant]

Yup, if you think the surface is weathered tufnol can just be sanded smooth again, same way as anything. This is just a formaldehyde resin (bakelite) laminate with canvas. Natural fiber there gets moisture in, so soaking with oil takes care of that.

I prefer drying oil as this hardens inside so more permanent finishing. As oiling, will need rubbing with it again after some time, but no more cleaning or sanding necessary.
Raw hardens slowly, 'boiled' much faster, as it's 'partially dried' already. Not much difference otherwise, any will do. I used boiled, such was in store it's more handy; raw oils are mostly for deep impregnating of wood.

Varnishes and such, covering over, is not an idea for finish as it will need redoing when damaged, but if you have an oil type varnish handy it can be used, just rub it in only - not leaving a layer on surface.
Any other oil or fat will also improve looks, polishing and waxing for instance

 

[KevO]

Yeah I can see the canvas material, it's partly exposed in some areas.

 

[Neil_Y]

Be careful if you are sanding, the resin components are not good for you and the fibre is cotton which which breaks up into very fine particles when sanded dry. \use a mask or sand with water if you have to.