Refurb or replace cleats

[111KAB]

The cleats (5 no.) on the boat I am refurbing are pitted and the chrome finish has blistered. Ideally I would like them re-chromed however I don't have a clue how to remove the black plastic/nylon 'base' which I presume I would need to do before the metal section is re-chromed. The cleats screw throgh the fibreglass body of the boat into a timber 'packer' bonded into the fibreglass. Unfortunately the cleats have been removed so many times that the fixing holes have become enlarged. I cannot get to the underside of the packer to bolt - any other suggestions for fixing?
Finally if I do replace I would need to use the existing fixing positions as I'm reluctant to drill the boat body again.
Comments/advise please.

 

[DAVIDO]

I would imagine the plastic backing is just pressed on with a couple of lugs, try prizzing them apart. Re plating most electro platers have a minimum charge between 60 & 100 squids dont know how much new ones are but might be a cheaper option.

 

[carlton]

[ QUOTE ]
The cleats screw through the fibreglass body of the boat into a timber 'packer' bonded into the fibreglass. Unfortunately the cleats have been removed so many times that the fixing holes have become enlarged. I cannot get to the underside of the packer to bolt - any other suggestions for fixing?
Finally if I do replace I would need to use the existing fixing positions as I'm reluctant to drill the boat body again.


[/ QUOTE ]


Remove cleats. Fill existing holes with West System epoxy ( - araldite will do the job instead).

Buy new (stainless steel) cleats. Mark/drill new fixing postitions. Waterproof holes with Sikaflex or equivalent. Fit new cleats. You will have to get at the underside of the cleat bolts to secure the washers/nuts. There must be a way........

If you don't do it this way, you'll probably regret it. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[111KAB]

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
I cannot get to the underside of the packer to bolt - any other suggestions for fixing?


[/ QUOTE ]
You will have to get at the underside of the cleat bolts to secure the washers/nuts. There must be a way........


[/ QUOTE ]

Have checked again and it is absolutely impossible to get to the underside of three of the five cleats but I think if I fill the existing holes with a flexible filler this should allow new screws more 'bite' but this means re-furbing the existing cleats. I presume powder coating would wear off - other than re-chroming any other suggestions?

 

[carlton]

[ QUOTE ]
Have checked again and it is absolutely impossible to get to the underside of three of the five cleats ....

[/ QUOTE ]

Do you mean it's impossible without removing furniture/fittings ?

I assume the manufacturer somehow fitted them in the first place - have they been subsequently covered up ?

 

[111KAB]

Unsure of the technical term for the construction (newbie) but essentially the construction of the boat consists of two skins of fibreglass with a cavity of 25mm. Where the cleats fix this 25mm cavity is filled with a piece of wood. To remove this piece of wood now would require a hole cutting in the inner skin of fibreglass which I presume is not sensible. It is impossible to get my hand/arm into the cavity (due to it being so narrow) and where the cleats have been fixed is approx 1100mm 'deep' - I would photograph but it is a very narrow, deep black hole!

 

[SVB]

Difficult to be perscriptive without seeing the problem but I would be looking to replace with s/steel with different hole ctrs and fit on a bed of sealant to prevent water ingress through old holes.

 

[carlton]

Would it be possible to pour epoxy into the holes in order to fill them in, and then drill from the deck all the way through the wooden backing to then fit washers/securing nuts on the inside of the boat ?

Other than that, it sounds as though you may have to modify the existing design by removing/replacing some of the fibreglass. That could be messy, but if it's your only remaining option..........

 

[Tranona]

From your piccy they seem to be self tappers, so no nuts or washers inside. Options are fill the holes with thickened epoxy and drill pilot holes for self tappers. Better is to use machine screws set in West epoxy. The technique is described in the West book, but you can probably get details of how to do it from Wessex Resins who supply West epoxies.

Would be tempted to use new SS or aluminium cleats and fairleads anyway as refurbishing those is likely to be more expensive than new.