Reflective but heat resisting paint - suggestions?

MapisM

MapisM

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I've got several external lights which are not available anymore as spares.
They are actually fine externally, but after opening them to fit LED bulbs, I saw that the surface of the internal reflectors is burnt, obviously by the previous halogen bulb heat.
No idea about which material they are made of: it's very light and looks like plastic, but maybe it's some kind of alloy, because ruined surface aside, they are still very solid, also in the burnt area.
So, I thought to spray them with something, hence the title questions.

I'm aware that LED bulbs shouldn't get anywhere near as hot as halogens - besides, G4 flat LED bulbs will throw the light directly downward ("softened" through a frosted glass anyway) without actually using the reflector, so I might as well leave them as they are...
But I thought to ask anyhow, wadduthink guys? TIA!
Reflector.jpg
 
MapisM said:
I've got several external lights which are not available anymore as spares.
They are actually fine externally, but after opening them to fit LED bulbs, I saw that the surface of the internal reflectors is burnt, obviously by the previous halogen bulb heat.
No idea about which material they are made of: it's very light and looks like plastic, but maybe it's some kind of alloy, because ruined surface aside, they are still very solid, also in the burnt area.
So, I thought to spray them with something, hence the title questions.

I'm aware that LED bulbs shouldn't get anywhere near as hot as halogens - besides, G4 flat LED bulbs will throw the light directly downward ("softened" through a frosted glass anyway) without actually using the reflector, so I might as well leave them as they are...
But I thought to ask anyhow, wadduthink guys? TIA!
Reflector.jpg
Click to expand...

It looks like you missed a bit of teak
 
Thanks folks, will give that a try. :encouragement:
Actually, I already half thought to go that route, but just wondered if I was missing something.
 
I can still see teak deck in the picture. Looks good. Have you decided to keep the teak?

BTW, on teak maintenance, and I'll do another thread sometime, I have just had mine cleaned to straw brown like new, and "painted" them in clear Semco. I'm amazed how good it seems, so far. I hate the orange look of most Semco but the clear Semco so clear that it leaves the white caulk white, so it is as clear as water. But it locks in the light brown colour of the wood, so eliminating a lot of maintenance effort. I'll post pictures next week.
 
jfm said:
I can still see teak deck in the picture. Looks good. Have you decided to keep the teak?
Click to expand...
Nope, that bit of teak is actually in the cockpit side, under the fairlead+winch.
Teak is still good in the cockpit floor and f/b stairs, and hopefully going to last for several years, since it's obviously a much more protected area. The rest is going, but still a WIP at the moment - see below.

Anyhow, yes please, do post about your experience.
Even with a smaller surface (actually just a tiny fraction, compared to the old tub!), anyone who writes "eliminating a lot of maintenance effort", gets my attention automatically! :D

Deck.jpg
 
personally I'd not bother and just fit the downlight LEDs and be done with.

HOWEVER, I'd definitely turn the bow hatch 180degrees to have proper and cheap ventilation at anchor!
Even at 40C on anchor I end up leaving a slight 30mm gap and it's enough to keep us cool throughout the night. Afternoon nap is often half open :p

That's the first sanding getting the glue out of the way I guess. Is there going to be another round of sanding to remove all white gelcoat before priming and painting the antislip thing P?

cheers

V.
 
'personally I'd not bother and just fit the downlight LEDs and be done with'
Yep, have just done the same, they have their own backing, pointless sorting out the finish behind them

'HOWEVER, I'd definitely turn the bow hatch 180degrees to have proper and cheap ventilation at anchor!'
Yep, my hatch faces forwards, makes all the difference
 
vas said:
That's the first sanding getting the glue out of the way I guess. Is there going to be another round of sanding to remove all white gelcoat before priming and painting the antislip thing P?
Click to expand...
Yes and no. The initial sanding is completed as you see it, because aside from removing the old sika, it was also meant to flatten the surface, regardless of whether this required reaching the GRP or leaving some gelcoat patches.
Above the surface which you see, there will be two coats of epoxy resin, and then some epoxy plaster for the final finishing (with another, much finer sanding), and eventually primer + colour matched paint. With the KG antiskid on top, as the last step.

Well spotted ref. the bow hatch, but it's purposely installed that way in all DPs for safety reasons (green water over the bow would tend to close it rather than open it, if left unlocked).
But I agree that for ventilation the other way round is better, of course. Not sure if I'll bother turning it 180°, we'll see...

Ref. the LED not needing/using the reflector, yep, I even mentioned that in my OP.
Otoh, when the lamp is turned off, the darker area is slightly visible through the frosted glass, which is annoying.
No big deal, but if just spraying the reflector cures that, why not?
I wish all the refitting jobs would only require the purchase of a spray can... :rolleyes:
 
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