Red Sea

janeward

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We're planning to complete circumnavigation from Sing to UK in Nov 2003 and wd like to hear experiences of anyone crossing north Indian Ocean and Red Sea recently.

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snowleopard

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there was a report in a recent issue of YM about piracy in the socotra/bab el mandeb area. it seemed to be a pretty serious problem. 2 boats were shot up by pirates, the french navy were on hand but did nothing to help. round the world rallies stay as far as poss from the coasts and use coded position reporting but with at least one attack reported in the straits i believe it's a dangerous area and we will go via south africa when we pass that way.

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penfold

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I crewed on the delivery of a catamaran from La Rochelle to the Seychelles November/December 2001;

The canal was pretty interesting; Port Tewfik/Suez and Ismailia were nice to moor at, Port Said was a sh*thole. we visited cairo by taxi; not recommended if you are a nervous passenger! the pyramids at Giza were pretty spectacular but the filth and rubbish everywhere(and I mean everywhere) was something to behold, as was the stench downwind of the middens and dungheaps.

The Red Sea transit was a pretty frustrating exercise; run downwind to the halfway point (5 days), then beat into a force 5 (gusting 6-7 at times) for 8 days. Our skipper had decided to run without navigation lights once we were south of Egypt. One odd aspect of this was occasionally one of the numerous container ships or Ro-Ro car transporters would come really close to you in the dark and shine their searchlight at you, even if you put your lights on as they approached.
We were followed by a fishing boat when we were level with Eritrea. They appeared at about 1800 while we were hove-to for dinner; we put up all the canvas we had and surfed away from them on a broad reach(12kts) to the NW. Once it got dark (1930ish) we gibed over, ran NE and lost sight of their lights after an hour or so. We then turned south again. Bab el Mandeb/Gate of Tears is very aptly named; we really did feel like crying after 8 days beating into a short 4-6 foot swell. We stopped at Djibouti to recover; a taste of real Africa. mad Kafka style bureaucracy abounds, as do the obligatory chancers who 'know the harbour master very well, and my uncle runs the customs office in the harbour. I also know the Elf agent so I can get you a good deal on Gasoil!'. There is a good French supermarket, but it's a little pricey.

The Gulf of Aden was quite pleasant and we were entertained by a pod of Killerwhales. We opted to go through the socotra channel, but took the precaution of doing it at night with no lights on. once we were past there we ran off before a steady ENE 4 monsoon wind all the way to the equator. From there the wind was a little erratic, so we motorsailed most of the rest.

If you want to know more just ask, 'cos I could prattle on for several pages like this.

cheers,
David

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We completed our trip around in September 2001 making a quick return from Australia via Cocos Keeling, Chagos and Djibouti. The Indian Ocean was fine but we had a tough time down the Gulf of Aden and up the Red Sea because of the time of year.

I would avoid Djibouti - it's pretty rough - our guide was old and suggested it was a good place to stop, but that was before most of the French left and the place turned to custard.

None of our cruising friends from the Pacific had any trouble up the Red Sea, but all avoided Djibouti, stopping first in Oman and then Eritrea instead.

We had a few nervous moments with fishermen and tried to out run them. Our boat wasn't fast enough and they caught up. In fact all they were trying to do was point out to the tankers (and us) where their nets were, but with all the press reports and salty sea-dog tales you get pretty anxious.

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