Recommended Paint for a Wooden Yacht

[AMCD300]

I am about to renovate a 1970's-vintage wooden yacht (see the following thread: http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?363198-Can-anyone-help-identify-this-yacht), and would welcome recommendations as to the best type of paints to use. I am in Italy so a 'product-type/category' recommendation will be particularly useful beyond a specific product (I may not be able to source it outside the UK).

Is it reasonable to paint the coach roof in a regular marine gloss (after priming) while painting the gangway in non-slip paint?

Similarly, are there any problems (beyond the obvious slip risk) of using normal gloss where one normally steps? In other words should I just stick to one type or the other?

When repairing scuffs to the hull I am assuming that it is acceptable to sand down, paint with primer then apply anti-foul directly on top of this.

Any help is greatly appreciated,

Andy

 

[Tranona]

The major manufacturers such as International, Hempel, Epifanes etc all provide useful information on different types of coatings and their application. Provided the current paint is sound, you can just rub it don and paint with a single pack enamel such as International Toplac Easy to apply and gives a good reasonably durable finish. Don't be tempted into two packs as you need to start from bare wood. For the decks you can get special deck paint with granules in it to give a non slip finish, or you can add grit to ordinary paint. On a small boat like the one you have ready made deck paint is probably easier and more economic as you will need less than a tin so have some left over for touching up and freshening later.

Underwater use a primer such as Primocon and then antifoul of your choice.

 

[AMCD300]

The major manufacturers such as International, Hempel, Epifanes etc all provide useful information on different types of coatings and their application. Provided the current paint is sound, you can just rub it don and paint with a single pack enamel such as International Toplac Easy to apply and gives a good reasonably durable finish. Don't be tempted into two packs as you need to start from bare wood. For the decks you can get special deck paint with granules in it to give a non slip finish, or you can add grit to ordinary paint. On a small boat like the one you have ready made deck paint is probably easier and more economic as you will need less than a tin so have some left over for touching up and freshening later.

Underwater use a primer such as Primocon and then antifoul of your choice.

Thanks for the comprehensive advice.

Does the finish of the non-slip deck paint look agreeable, or is it really grainy?

Andy

 

[PhillM]

I use a mixture of products from different companies on my 1961 wooden boat.

Hull above the waterline - Epifanes Nautifort white - wonderful paint, easy to apply (tip and roll) and looks great. Lasts well except fender burn is a problem. Only problem is people tell me how great the finish is with compliments like "wow that almost looks like a grp finish" at which point I reach for the boathook

Deck - Hemple Deck paint - I use cream. It comes with granuales in it but I always add more as it does need that little extra to make it really non slip. It does collect the dirt but will also take a good scrubbing.

Inside I use Toplac for coloured areas, Nautifort for white.

For bilges its got to be International Danboline. Seems to be easiest to apply and hardest wearing.

For varnish I swear by Epifanes. I find it easy to work, looks great and I even love the smell (sad I know). If you are going to use it, buy their brush thinners don't use white spirit - it does make a difference.

 

[AMCD300]

I use a mixture of products from different companies on my 1961 wooden boat.

Hull above the waterline - Epifanes Nautifort white - wonderful paint, easy to apply (tip and roll) and looks great. Lasts well except fender burn is a problem. Only problem is people tell me how great the finish is with compliments like "wow that almost looks like a grp finish" at which point I reach for the boathook

Deck - Hemple Deck paint - I use cream. It comes with granuales in it but I always add more as it does need that little extra to make it really non slip. It does collect the dirt but will also take a good scrubbing.

Inside I use Toplac for coloured areas, Nautifort for white.

For bilges its got to be International Danboline. Seems to be easiest to apply and hardest wearing.

For varnish I swear by Epifanes. I find it easy to work, looks great and I even love the smell (sad I know). If you are going to use it, buy their brush thinners don't use white spirit - it does make a difference.

That's great advice - thank you

Andy

 

[chinita]

I use a mixture of products from different companies on my 1961 wooden boat.

Hull above the waterline - Epifanes Nautifort white - wonderful paint, easy to apply (tip and roll) and looks great. Lasts well except fender burn is a problem. Only problem is people tell me how great the finish is with compliments like "wow that almost looks like a grp finish" at which point I reach for the boathook

Deck - Hemple Deck paint - I use cream. It comes with granuales in it but I always add more as it does need that little extra to make it really non slip. It does collect the dirt but will also take a good scrubbing.

Inside I use Toplac for coloured areas, Nautifort for white.

For bilges its got to be International Danboline. Seems to be easiest to apply and hardest wearing.

For varnish I swear by Epifanes. I find it easy to work, looks great and I even love the smell (sad I know). If you are going to use it, buy their brush thinners don't use white spirit - it does make a difference.

Just to confuse you; on my 1963 wooden boat I use:

Hull above waterline - Sandtex clotted cream 10 year high gloss.

Deck - Sandtex cream masonry paint.

Inside - any old white gloss.

Bilges - Ronseal Garage Floor Paint.

Varnish - Le Tonkenois - no thinners required (my one indulgence - but at least seven coats a year).

Sorry!

 

[pmagowan]

Topsides: Epifanes
Varnish: Epifanes
Coachroof: Sandtex (from B&Q) textured paint
Bilges: Danboline
BWL: Hemple cruising performance
Primers: Hemple aluminium based underwater primer ?name. Primocon for keel.

Do not use any 2 pack stuff as the expansion of the wood will make it crack.

 

[Scarboroughsloop]

Topsides: Epifanes
Varnish: Epifanes
Coachroof: Sandtex (from B&Q) textured paint
Bilges: Danboline
BWL: Hemple cruising performance
Primers: Hemple aluminium based underwater primer ?name. Primocon for keel.

Do not use any 2 pack stuff as the expansion of the wood will make it crack.

What he says.....

 

[AMCD300]

Great advice, thanks.

Garage floor paint for the bilges - inspired.....

 

[rick-lamb]

What kind of fouling do you get in Italy? I'd expect warm water to be pretty bad, maybe you should consider a hard paint and regular cleaning.
I used a regular diver when in warm water.

Further north now and lots of people use this kind of thing http://dridiver.com/ though mostly more home-made looking.

 

[AMCD300]

What kind of fouling do you get in Italy? I'd expect warm water to be pretty bad, maybe you should consider a hard paint and regular cleaning.
I used a regular diver when in warm water.

Further north now and lots of people use this kind of thing http://dridiver.com/ though mostly more home-made looking.

I am looking at Boero brand fouling - hard fouling is their 'Altura 619' product and self polishing is Mistral 633.

I am limited to what I can get from my local suppliers, and also to products which have instructions in English on their websites so I can select the right thing.

Looking at the hull hard fouling was used previously, so I will probably stick to that.

As for the dri-diver - looks like the one PBO magazine tested this month. They rated it second, but said it was very good. Especially with the flotation to press the scrubbing pads to the underside.

Thanks for your advice.

Andy