Re-sealing Teak tops on cockpit lockers

[aquaholic]

On some of the cockpit lockers the teak is starting lift and water is getting behind it, so I guess firstly I need to re-stick the teak down and then re-seal all the gaps.....only guessing as I have no experience of this.
Bit concerned also how I can get a nice clean edge to it? or should I bite the bullet and pay for someone to do it.

 

[Tranona]

Really depends on how it is attached at the moment, and the extent of the delamination. The two most common adhesives are polyurethane sealants (such as Sikaflex) or epoxy - although older boats may have used other adhesives. The thickness of the teak may also have an impact on the type of repair. Essentially you have to clean the two faying surfaces, inject your adhesive and then hold together for sufficient time for the adhesive to cure. You may find you can do this easily by raking out the old adhesive with something like a hacksaw blade and cleaning with acetone. Clamps or weight can be used to hold the two together after you have forced your adhesive in.

On the other hand you may find it better to strip the whole lot off and start again!

 

[Delfin]

I think I agree that starting over may be necessary. If you pull up the teak, you will probably be very surprised at all the crud and moisture that exists under. Can you post a picture and tell us whether the substrate is wood or glass or other? It might be helpful in offering coherent advice.

 

[aquaholic]

They are set into the cockpit lockers so are attached to the gelcoat/fibreglass underneath.

 

[Delfin]

They are set into the cockpit lockers so are attached to the gelcoat/fibreglass underneath.

Well, were it me, I would simply drill through the teak and glass with a countersink, through bolt it, one per end, tighten it up and plug the holes. The glue has given way, so if you don't suck it down, you'll need to tear it out and probably break the boards in the process. This isn't a tough job, and you could test it with one of the boards to make sure it is going to work as a complete solution. If you want to dress up the finish on the underside, use a cap nut. It will look like it was intended all along. Hope that helps.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...=574&familyName=5/16-18+S/S+Machine+Screws+FH

http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...o?pid=1940&familyName=Teak+Wood+Bungs+/+Plugs

http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...pid=2799&familyName=Fuller+Countersink+SET+#6

http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...t.do?pid=1885&familyName=S/S+Acorn+(Cap)+Nuts

 

[jwilson]

Well, were it me, I would simply drill through the teak and glass with a countersink, through bolt it, one per end, tighten it up and plug the holes. The glue has given way, so if you don't suck it down, you'll need to tear it out and probably break the boards in the process. This isn't a tough job, and you could test it with one of the boards to make sure it is going to work as a complete solution. If you want to dress up the finish on the underside, use a cap nut. It will look like it was intended all along. Hope that helps.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...=574&familyName=5/16-18+S/S+Machine+Screws+FH

http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...o?pid=1940&familyName=Teak+Wood+Bungs+/+Plugs

http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...pid=2799&familyName=Fuller+Countersink+SET+#6

http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...t.do?pid=1885&familyName=S/S+Acorn+(Cap)+Nuts

The photo looks like a relatively modern Beneteau or Jeanneau, so the teak is most unlikely to be nearly thick enough to plug screw/bolt holes. You could glue and screw or bolt, leaving a line of flush screw heads visible, otherwise it's take the lot off and replace (possibly with one of the synthetic substitutes).

 

[Tranona]

The teak strips will be vacuum bagged onto the GRP using something like Sikaflex. I have the same on my Bavaria and just like yours, water settles in hollows and eventually breaks up the sealing between the strips and water soaks into the teak. The result is mostly cosmetic as water can't get into the boat. The long term solution is to remove the strips and replace them, but it is both time consuming and difficult to get them firmly attached without vacuum bagging.

You can however, improve the cosmetics and reduce the water retention in the teak. Dry it all thoroughly - you have to stop any water from resting there so a summer or cover up job. Rake all the sealant out of the seams and underneath the teak without forcing it away - it can split easily, clean with acetone, masking tape the teak leaving the seams open. Press Sikaflex into the seams using the gun and the point of a trowel so that it gets under the teak. Try to keep the Sika level with the top of the seams. Lay plastic sheeting over the area and place weights (scale weights, concrete blocks, full tins of oil etc) to hold the teak down while the Sika cures - at least 24 hours. Carefully remove the masking tape which will take the surplus Sika - you may have to use a craft knife to get a clean edge to the filled seams. Then sand the surface to level the seams.

Break open a beer - you deserve it!

 

[Sneaky Pete]

If I were doing this think the best way forward would be to remove the old sealant from around the offending piece of teak lift the teak out, if it breaks replace it if not clean with sandpaper, then clean the fibreglass and bond the teak back in place. Chandlers will advise on type of bond to be used. The teak is rebated on one side this is for sealant put some breaker tape on top of the rebate of the teak this is to stop the sealant sticking to the teak, apply a polyurethane sealant in the joint to about 1mm above the surface allow to cure then sand down with sandpaper apply a finish.

 

[Tranona]

If I were doing this think the best way forward would be to remove the old sealant from around the offending piece of teak lift the teak out, if it breaks replace it if not clean with sandpaper, then clean the fibreglass and bond the teak back in place. Chandlers will advise on type of bond to be used. The teak is rebated on one side this is for sealant put some breaker tape on top of the rebate of the teak this is to stop the sealant sticking to the teak, apply a polyurethane sealant in the joint to about 1mm above the surface allow to cure then sand down with sandpaper apply a finish.

That is not likely to work on this type of construction. The teak strips are only about 3mm thick - almost veneers and will be attached as I suggested with a sealant/adhesive cured under pressure (actually negative pressure from a vacuum bag). The only way to remove them is to destroy them. You can, of course, do this and start again, but it is worth trying the method I suggested (which I did on my boat) to delay the day when you have to do it.

 

[aquaholic]

Yes its on a 96' Beneteau, so if thick enough I could seal and screw/bolt, and use sikaflex to stick and seal with, any particular type of sikaflex?

 

[Nostrodamus]

. Lay plastic sheeting over the area and place weights (scale weights, concrete blocks, full tins of oil etc) to hold the teak down while the Sika cures - at least 24 hours. Carefully remove the masking tape which will take the surplus Sika - you may have to use a craft knife to get a clean edge to the filled seams. Then sand the surface to level the seams.

Break open a beer - you deserve it!

I have got some caulking to do at some point but was told to take the masking tape off before the sikaflex cures in order to make it easier and get a strait edge.

 

[NeilH]

Sure its teak through and through? Plenty of production boats (mine included) have a teak veneer laid on plywood, said plywood sheet epoxied to the GRP. Total 6 mm thick.

As I had water puddling and subsequently rot, I lifted the lot this winter and am replacing, using Sika primer, Sika 298 bedding compound (600 cc sausages are cheaper) and then 290 DC caulking.

Howells in Poole made up some lovely teak panels (6 mm thick) with the joins ready caulked so Ive just got the edges to fill.

 

[Tranona]

I have got some caulking to do at some point but was told to take the masking tape off before the sikaflex cures in order to make it easier and get a strait edge.

Yes, you can do it that way - you just have to be careful you don't pull the Sika out of the seam as you are removing the tape. Sika gets everywhere and sticky bits of masking tape are a PITA to control as you lift them off.

Perhaps if there was a lot of sticking to do under the strips I might do it in two stages - stick down first then fill seams, but the seams on this type of construction are so shallow it would be difficult to keep them clear for later filling.

This is a job best done in the morning sunshine in Greece in the spring and gives you every justification for retiring to the nearest taverna for a beer while the Sika cures.

 

[NeilH]

Tranona is right, the black stuff easily spreads everywhere. I evolved a process of folding over the ends of masking tape to create easy-to-lift handles. Peeling off the tape was then easy and no mess, as soon as the section was finished and before the caulking skinned over. I also used an old credit card to lift the tape when necessary. Any stray bits are easy to sand off when dry.

 

[aquaholic]

Thanks guys, some really usefull information. As soon as some warmer weather comes I will think about doing it.

 

[NeilH]

sika recommends tooling off the caulking whilst it's wet - I use a narrow strip cut from another old credit card for that, which limits the spread and is worthwhile doing.

Btw take care to fill fully from the bottom of the groove to avoid air bubbles

 

[Mistroma]

I had teak on one locker replaced under warranty on my 2009 Jeanneau and observed the work. I can confirm that the construction consisted of very thin planks that had been stapled together underneath to form a panel. Each plank had a recess at the edge to hold a strip of black sealant. The whole panel was then stuck down with some sealant that was packaged in a similar way to a german type saugage (i.e. Not in a tube). No idea what it was but I could find out. Doubt it is much better than Sikaflex.

The panel had to be destroyed in order to remove it and quite a lot of water was trapped underneath. Simply sealing the edge would have trapped the water so it did need to be removed.

If you are in the med. then it would probably bake dry and in-situ patch might work. Unfortunately, no chance of that happening in Scotland.