Re-roping reefing lines in Selden in boom single line reefing

[jimi]

Is it possible to re-rope the lines without dismantling the boom?

I want to rope with thinner dyneema lines to reduce friction in the system.

 

[Marsupial]

Is it possible to re-rope the lines without dismantling the boom?

I want to rope with thinner dyneema lines to reduce friction in the system.

The simple answer is yes, the easy way is to stitch the new lines to the old lines and wrap the "joint" with tape and use the old line to pull the new line through.

What ever you do don't take the old line out of the boom before you employ it as a mouse; been there done that (on someone else's boat, I hasten to add when I was asked to assist after the lines had already been removed) we invented a few new swear words that day.

Not convinced you will achieve your objective by just changing the lines, some lube on the moving parts in the boom may be more effective - just a thought.

 

[AIDY]

Is it possible to re-rope the lines without dismantling the boom?

I want to rope with thinner dyneema lines to reduce friction in the system.

Errr no not on an S38 without taking the end plate off... I looked at it once was going to changed to a thinner diameter rope and better pulley's.

if you look here the rope is spliced to the slider within the boom

http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgu...LIUaLuKpOc0wXP4IH4Aw&ved=0CDgQ9QEwAg&dur=1618

 

[prv]

The simple answer is yes, the easy way is to stitch the new lines to the old lines and wrap the "joint" with tape and use the old line to pull the new line through.

That's a jolly clever bit of sewing if it can unsplice the old tack pendant from the travelling block and splice the new one on!

I think you need to take the end casting off the boom. Vyv (I think) suggested refitting it using rivnuts to make the operation easier in future.

Pete

 

[AIDY]

Not convinced you will achieve your objective by just changing the lines, some lube on the moving parts in the boom may be more effective - just a thought.

I know what jimi is on about and yes it's part of the answer... also better pulley within the boom and a pulley on the main sail at the reefing points works.

 

[Marsupial]

The one I played with was an old version the ends of the boom were open (maybe 15 or more years old - guessing), there were no lines in there when I saw it so had nothing to compare it with. I used a riggers knot on the travelling block, worked fine.

 

[prv]

I used a riggers knot on the travelling block, worked fine.

The point isn't how you attach the line to the block, but how you get at the block at all. In my Selden boom you can only see the blocks by peering through a tiny hole, you can't touch them even with a fingertip. The tack pendant is spliced to the block. Given these two facts, there is no way to replace the pendant without taking an end off the boom.

Pete

 

[nigelmercier]

Given these two facts, there is no way to replace the pendant without taking an end off the boom.

+1

 

[johnphilip]

That's a jolly clever bit of sewing if it can unsplice the old tack pendant from the travelling block and splice the new one on!

I think you need to take the end casting off the boom. Vyv (I think) suggested refitting it using rivnuts to make the operation easier in future.

Pete

On my Selden boom one end casting is removable by unscrewing bolts. No drilling of rivets necessary. One reason to dismantle the boom is to check the sliders within the boom. I believe the arrangement varies with the year of the boom but on ours the sliders run on what could be described as nylon grommets. One reason the reefs had become difficult to release was that about 4 out 8 of these grommets had disappeared so there was metal to metal as a bearing.
To get enough slack in the tack lines to remove the sliders you need to untie the knots at the tack attachment and add a mouse line to extend them. Do not use too thin a line as the mouse or it will fall off the edge of the sheaves and jam between pulley and cheek.

 

[johnphilip]

check the selden pages

I find Selden have a lot of info on the single line reefing.
http://www.seldenmast.com/flipbook/default.cfm?pubID=97226AAE-DCFD-0EDE-3FED987AD9A0261E
Page 88

 

[Bav32]

I've changed mine to spetra - wonderful improvement, but worth taking the end fitting off for several reasons.
You can clean out the grooves in the section to get rid of dirt / grit etc before adding some lube.
You inspect / replace ( even the missing) "rollers". Damaged and missing rollers just add to the friction.
On the advice of my local Selden agent I straightened up the plates ( less bend) so they don't rattle about so much. This looseness apparently a reason why the rollers fall out.
Whilst doing this I also swapped over the first and second reef; reason being that the first reef was on the same side as the main halyard. So now I lower the Halyard on one winch , reef on the other then tighten the main halyard.
So much easier than trying to do it swapping ropes / jammers on the same winch.
And finally make a spectra eye spice in the end of the tack line. My factory?? originals had a eye which was glued braid outer to braid outer and covered with heat shrink - honest!

 

[Highland laddie]

I currently have the mast end casting off due to elongated rivet holes, did Vyv mention size or type?