Re-fastening Folkboat Floors

[tomsfisher]

I have recently bought a wooden Folkboat built in 1962. One of the many tasks I have to undertake is to re-fasten the clinker hull strakes to the floors ( I think this is the correct term - I am referring to the structures that sit on top pf the keel and through which the keel-bolts pass. Most of the existing floors are not tightly secured to the hull. The challenge I face is that the heads of the existing bronze screws simply crumble when one attempts to apply a screw driver. I have started the process of drilling out the screws that fasten the strakes to a broken/rotten floor. The experience to date has not been encouraging. Keeping the drill in the centre of the screw and avoiding damaging the wood around it has proved impossible. I now have a couple of eliptical holes rather wider than the original screws. It may be that tackling the broken floor first was a mistake because the screws were either protruding into thin air (the floor having split across from side to side where screws entered it) or into very soft wood (at the bottom of the floor). I guess the screws therefore moved a lot in response to the drill and I hope this will not be the case with the other floors.

Does anyone have any tips about how to best proceed with this operation?

 

[Poignard]

How about using these? web page

 

[tillergirl]

Are you going to replace all of the floors? If so, I think your priorities are to first preserve a pattern for cutting the new floors; second to ensure removal that leaves the planking as undamaged as possible (which you have already considered). So assuming you are going to replace all the floors, I would be considering cutting out the floors having first created patterns. In that way, you are going to be able to remove the corroded fastenings last of all and quite easily.

If you are not going to replace the floors or any particular one, I would drill into the head of the corroded screws starting with as small a drill as possible to get a central hole. I would then increase the drill size using the pilot hole as a guide. Chances are the shank will give up reasonably early in the proceedings as you hollow it out. I don't think there is much alternative to slow small careful steps. My personal experience with 'easy out' type of things hasn't been great - but that might be me. You still have the issue of getting the thing central or damage to the side walls of the holes occur.

 

[cliffordpope]

I had exactly this problem when restoring my clinker boat, except that they were rusting iron nails.
I removed all the floors, in turn, by levering sufficient clearance and then cutting off all the nails with a hacksaw. (I also had to cut the keel bolts, but that's another story)
The heads can then be pushed out from the inside, and you stand more of a chance of extracting the other bit with the floor secured in a vice.
If they won't come out then just use new fastenings at different spacings, and fill the old holes.

 

[old_salt]

Have a look at this previous post on the subject of removing screws it may help.
ckick here.

Here are the two photos that may help.