Raw water engine - from trailer to mooring?

[martink]

Our stern-drive Bayliner 192 is nearly 10 years old, and normally lives on the south coast on a trailer between the times that we use it.
However, the launch and recovery process is hard work, and it would undoubtedly be used more if it was on a mooring in the summer (which is possible) - and far more if it was on a marina berth year-round (not achievable immediately!)
The engine is raw-water cooled, and I have been rigorous in flushing it after each use. We have to use muffs as there is no fresh water inlet.
My concern about putting it full time in the water (in decreasing order of concern) are:
1) I could not rinse the engine after use - and that can't be good for its insides;
2) Marine life might start to live in the impeller or elsewhere;
2) It would need to be anti-fouled (which I have no experience of) and power-washed during the season.
Am I worrying unnecessarily, and should just get on with it; are my concerns reasonable, and there are ways round them, or are there other things that are even more important that I have not considered?
It's also why , if I was buying again, I would avoid a raw water cooled engine - but I guess that's called experience.
Any thoughts gratefully received.
MartinK

 

[Seastoke]

if your leg lifts up out of water u could still use your muffs ,and yes u need antifouling ,the only concern would be winterizing the engine ,but u must do that now

 

[lynall]

Neutra salt is quite good and does what it says.
If in the water 24/7/365 no need to winterize engine at all.
Remember different anti fouls for the alloy stern drive, they dont like copper!

 

[BruceK]

As Lynall said. Only thing I'd add is if leaving for any length of time do not leave the leg in any position where the rams are extended. Any growth on the ram legs will damage the oil seals when retracted. I found this out the hard way lifting the leg when on a semi drying mooring where the leg was in danger of digging in to the seabed (2ft water on LW slack) i.e. make sure your mooring is deep enough to leave the leg fully down.

AF and anodes will be a must

edit. One other thing to check. My trailerable cuddy came with a timed bilge pump. i.e. it ran every few minutes. If there was water it continued to pump as long as the motor was loaded (i.e. water in bilge). This type has the advantage that there is never much if any water in the bilge but can flatten a battery quicker and leave you at risk. For mooring purposes the float activated type is better but obviously will leave a small amount of water in the bilge depending on your bilge sump design.

 

[colingr]

Have you looked into dry stacking rather than mooring. Saves the anti foul etc and you can still flush when lifted out.

 

[alancollins]

I had a boat with a raw-water cooled engine, which I only flushed out at the end of each season. It was 19 years sold when I sold her and the engine never gave a problem.

 

[Freebee]

you missed anodes off your list , you will have to make sure all the anodes are in tip top condition, but having done so , you will still find when exposed to salt water any exposed aluminum will corrode very quickly.