Quick windless

[dial-a-monkey]

Not sure if this is of any help - just more possible ideas? I had some similar-ish symptoms with my Quick Antares 1500,

Do you have the ETA - hydro-magnetic circuit breakers? back by the battery - mine were behaving weirdly the voltage seemed OK until under load where it dropped ( it took ages to identify the circuit breakers - I have a second ETA breaker for an electric winch - which it eventually fried) the internal contacts were damaged from arcing. I could replace the fuse with a plain old 100 AMP thermal fuse to test.

I also noticed my Quick remote wasn't waterproof and there was water inside the momentary switches inside the remote - this also caused unexpected (i.e weird) behavior, it looked like it should work OK with a meter across the contacts but didn't work well when triggering the Relay ( Contactor unit) was finikey

 

[sailaboutvic]

Latest , took motor in to be check , like me the guy don't think it the motor , we will see .
Gear box seen to be fine , I can turn it with my finger without any problem , also one has to remember that this happens with the chain off the gypsy so there no load when it was tested and didn't work right . The windlass was fitted at the factory when the boat was new , six years ago , one would expect they fitted the right cable and switch but who knows . My next stage of there nothing wrong with the motor is trace the cable back and see which battery they are filtered to , not an easy job , yes off course I will report back with what I find , the really problem is it not happening all the time , and sod law it will happen when I really need it to work .

 

[Mistroma]

Not sure if this is of any help - just more possible ideas? I had some similar-ish symptoms with my Quick Antares 1500,

Do you have the ETA - hydro-magnetic circuit breakers? back by the battery - mine were behaving weirdly the voltage seemed OK until under load where it dropped ( it took ages to identify the circuit breakers - I have a second ETA breaker for an electric winch - which it eventually fried) the internal contacts were damaged from arcing. I could replace the fuse with a plain old 100 AMP thermal fuse to test.

I also noticed my Quick remote wasn't waterproof and there was water inside the momentary switches inside the remote - this also caused unexpected (i.e weird) behavior, it looked like it should work OK with a meter across the contacts but didn't work well when triggering the Relay ( Contactor unit) was finikey

I also had odd problems with a Quick windlass and tracked the problem to the ETA breaker. Volts were OK when I measured and I couldn't measure current (now have a clamp meter). I eventually worked out that the breaker was the most likely source and switched it out with a small piece of aluminium, sized to approximate to a 100A fuse. This worked fine and problem disappeared. I pulled the breaker apart and there had been a lot of arcing inside.

It took me a while to get a suitable replacement breaker to match the characteristics of the ETA unit. I did get one from another manufacturer but can't remember the name. It might be worth trying to rule out the breaker but your symptoms don't sound similar to ones I had.

 

[Ian_Edwards]

Without wanting to introduce thread drift, why is the ETA arcing?
I was under the impression it was an overload protection device?
i.e. it shouldn't break unless the safe working current is exceeded? and then only after a delay.

Could a diode and/or a capacitor be fitted in parallel with the ETA to reduce arcing?

 

[sailaboutvic]

Reporting back has promised ,
Well it not the motor , been checked and all good althought at the time it was working ok when I took it in , cables are around 8 to 9 mm , the switch has been strip and all looks fine and the conection at all ends are clean and tight , so the puzzle goes on , at this time it working no doubt when the time comes when Mr Murpthy decided the time right it will play up ,
So only time will tell what causing the problem , next time If condition don't demind that we need to lift the anchor there and then I will remover one of the battery and conect it straight to the windlass .

 

[lpdsn]

cables are around 8 to 9 mm

Is that the power from the battery? Seems a bit thin.

 

[sailaboutvic]

Is that the power from the battery? Seems a bit thin.

Fitted at fatory has I said and looking up cable size it states , for 1000 w motor at 11 mts run , which is Less then what the run is , = 65 m2 , so 8 mm would be about right , unless I am calculating wrong ,
Plus , if it was the cables why would it work for days then play up or work slow for a few mins then speed up , I keep coming back to a bad conection but I check all conection several times now

 

[bigwow]

Is the cable flexing in part of it's run and has caused some of the strands to break internally?

 

[sailaboutvic]

Is the cable flexing in part of it's run and has caused some of the strands to break internally?

Thanks for that , no I gone down that route already , I have to say dufour did a good job tidying the wire runs .but keep coming up with suggestion guy , it has to be some thing

 

[kiwidave]

I have exactly the same issue with a Quick windlass - slow speed to start then back to normal speed after about 30 seconds of slow speed. Happens every time we use the windlass unless we have recently used it eg in a re-anchor situation.

Have checked all electrical connections, the circuit breaker and the solenoid - all seem okay.

Do you finally find the cause of your issue?

 

[kiwidave]

I have exactly the same issue with a Quick windlass - slow speed to start then back to normal speed after about 30 seconds of slow speed. Happens every time we use the windlass unless we have recently used it eg in a re-anchor situation.

Have checked all electrical connections, the circuit breaker and the solenoid - all seem okay.

Do you finally find the cause of your issue?

 

[RichardS]

I have a feeling that Vic once mentioned that the problem turned out to be a bearing in the windlass which was partially siezed.

If you PM him he will definitely get back to you. He's a very helpful chap.

Richard

 

[sailaboutvic]

Has Richard just said in the end I strip the gear box , not a pretty sight , the bearing been drinking sea water , manage to by patten seals and bearing , now it works like new .
Be warned is wasn't easy to take a part , the shaft that goes tho the gear box took some to get it out .

 

[kiwidave]

Thanks Vic
I stripped the motor down yesterday and cleaned brushes and commutator etc, but also discovered an oil leak from the seal on the worm gear.
It is not clear from the parts diagram in the manual how to pull this apart. did you remove the worm gear from the motor side of the gear box?
How did you refil the oil in the gearbox?
Any tips would be appreciated.
Dave

 

[RichardS]

Thanks Vic
I stripped the motor down yesterday and cleaned brushes and commutator etc, but also discovered an oil leak from the seal on the worm gear.
It is not clear from the parts diagram in the manual how to pull this apart. did you remove the worm gear from the motor side of the gear box?
How did you refil the oil in the gearbox?
Any tips would be appreciated.
Dave

I've changed the seals on the output shaft on my Quick but not the motor shaft so Vic can comment on this. It might not be the same on every model though. Mine's a Hector 1000W.

The oil filler/level indicator is a hexagon bolt which is high in the buklhead which the motor shaft passes through if I recall correctly. Should be obvious once you start looking for it.

Richard

 

[sailaboutvic]

Thanks Vic
I stripped the motor down yesterday and cleaned brushes and commutator etc, but also discovered an oil leak from the seal on the worm gear.
It is not clear from the parts diagram in the manual how to pull this apart. did you remove the worm gear from the motor side of the gear box?
How did you refil the oil in the gearbox?
Any tips would be appreciated.
Dave

Ok here we go .
The hardes part I found was to split the top part of the windless from the gearbox , it was well and truly stuck ,
Once you done that , remove all the Allen bolts and spilt the box and remove the worm , you got that far so I would even if you don't find anything wrong with them replace all the bearing and both seals , I made the miss take of only replace the bearing and seal in the motor and needed up having to strip all down again to replace the seals on the gearbox . Not much fun after I just sealed it all down .
Be carful knocking the bearing out of the casing , if you break the bearing inside the casing you be left with the outer ring still in the casing and then you may have a job getting it out , best to soak it in some thing before you start or take it where they can press it out in one bit .
Has Richard said the filler is on the side on the box , hard to see unless you take it out , but once fill it should be ok untill next leak .
One last thing , if you buy the seals from quick not only do they cost you more but there no seal to them , buy from SKF and the bearing are sealed too so you got , if you like two lots of seals to keep the water out .

 

[kiwidave]

Thanks for the information Richard and Vic.

Vic did you have to unmount the windlass from the deck to split the gearbox from the windlass housing?

 

[kiwidave]

Thanks for the information Richard and Vic.

Vic did you have to unmount the windlass from the deck to split the gearbox from the windlass housing?

 

[DickB]

Sounds like one of the circuits on the commutator may be duff, making and breaking a connection. Very difficult to trace, I would suggest taking to a repair shop.

cheers,

 

[sailaboutvic]

Sounds like one of the circuits on the commutator may be duff, making and breaking a connection. Very difficult to trace, I would suggest taking to a repair shop.

cheers,

Dick , I think his problem now is the oil seal that's leaking , unless he not sorted out the other problem .