Putting new sheaves in blocks?

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Live in Kent, boat in Canary Islands
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I've got half a dozen stanchion blocks for my genoa furler. Some of the sheaves are worn, and none of them have decent bearings. Is there anyone who can replace the sheaves, preferably with some form of bearing?


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I've got half a dozen stanchion blocks for my genoa furler. Some of the sheaves are worn, and none of them have decent bearings. Is there anyone who can replace the sheaves, preferably with some form of bearing?
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You can buy various replacement ball sheaves, depending on your size.

I replace my genoa lead blocks with Schaeffer Clear step lead blocks. http://www.furling.com/accessories.html
 

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I've replaced sheaves in some hard to source fittings by drilling out the pin and if necessary the fitting to take the next size of clevis pin.Spare acetal sheaves are available in a variety of int/ext diameters from the Barton catalogue,at low cost, and spin well on the clevis.Add s/s washers to taste.
 
I've made a few sheaves with a lathe before now.
I used Delrin.
I even made some with ball bearings, using stainless ball races commonly sold for skateboards.
 
The skateboard style of bearings can be sealed type or not and are also available in stainless, so some research will yield results for longevity.

Rob.
 
Its hard to tell from the pic how the pin is fixed. Might it not press or punch out? If you drilled it then a SS bolt and nut with the end of the bolt ground flat might look ok if not quite as nice as the old pins.
 
Thanks for the replies, so it looks like making or buying new sheaves isn't a problem. But what about the pin? I was assuming I'd have to send them away to be done by a professional.
The pin will come out if you drill the end off it
Several options:
Replace pin with bolt
Make new pin
Tap thread in old pin and secure with CSK or button head screw
 
Drill out the pin and replace with a socket button head stainless screw and nyloc nut or use a stainless clevis pin and split pin, nut & bolt is better or lw395's suggestion of tapping the old pin may be easier
 
I've replaced some plain with ball, bought Barton Marine,
Had to drill out two pins on each block and finish off with the Dremel,,
The bearing section was a larger diameter than the domed over rivet part.
New parts were made from ss rod and ss tube, sourced from ebay.
Haven't a lathe so used the pillar drill to get a workman like fit of the tube.
I borrowed, I think you call it a rivet snap, all it is a lump of steel with a dome shape drilled in, this finishes off all the tapping to produce a reasonable finish.
 
Drill out the pin and replace with a socket button head stainless screw and nyloc nut or use a stainless clevis pin and split pin, nut & bolt is better or lw395's suggestion of tapping the old pin may be easier
If you go for nut&bolt you must find or make bolt with no threads on the surface where the sheave is going to run.
clevis pin & split pin should work fine, this is the way other come from the factory.
 
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