Pushing my luck?

[Guest]

I, like many others I'm sure, cannot fail to be impressed and grateful for the generous help and advice that is freely given by many of you out there. Some names keep on appearing (some easily more memorable like "LongJohnSilver" but there are many others you see regularly) so my thanks guys - I too hope to be able to contribute someday when I've learned something worth passing on!
So after the B------t here's my four (!) questions.....
1 Any tips on using a TRAMEX meter - I've just bought one.
2 I'm fitting a flat Lewmar 500x500 hatch into a slightly curved wheelhouse roof of a Colvic Watson MS. It's a 22mm GRP/balsa/GRP sandwich so what's the general way to go about sealing this and allowing for the slight curve and thickness ?
3 I want to fit an electronic wind direction & speed indicator before the mast goes back up - any reccomendations on make, fitting etc, ? (just pottering, no Fastnets)
4 When I bought her, the VHF aeriel was at wheelhouse roof level - is it much better to have it at masthead height and what make/type would you buy - any other aeriel tips ?
Thanks in advance for any answers.
MalcDavis CW 26 "Gypsy" Hoo, Kent.

 

[Shanty]

For what its worth, some comments on your questions:

1) Tramex meter - don't assume the meter is telling you all you need to know about the condition of your hull. Don't assume it is telling you the % moisture content of your hull. All it is doing is giving you an indicator.
I assume you are planning to use the meter to monitor hull moisture. For this to be meaningful, you should record a set of test measurement locations on the hull, and use the same locations every time. Record the readings, and you will have a pointer to what is going on. If the figures seem to be rising to worrying levels, get a qualified surveyor to have a look at the hull & advise you.

2) Hatch Dunno - haven't had to do this. Faced with the job, I would probably make up a timber fashion piece to match the curve of the deck & mount the hatch on that. Hopefully, you will get a reply from someone who knows what he is talking about on this one.

3) Wind instruments - I like the NASA Clipper instrument. Fitted one 2 years ago & its still going strong. Mount it projecting forward from the head of the mast.

4) Aerial - VHF works on line of sight between the two aerials involved, so the higher you can mount your aerial, the more range you will get. So masthead is best. Avoid mounting the aerial close to other vertical metal rods (such as Windex shafts) Vtronix do a nice combined aerial & wind indicator which gets round this problem.

Hope some of this helps - good luck

 

[Piers]

I can only offer help on No 4. The aerial should be as high as poss for the extended range it will give. The only consideration would be the extended cable length and whether this looses power by the time the output signal from the set reaches the aerial. The manufacturer of the VHF will be able to advise, or a good fitter (such as Jim Staig of MEI at Port Solent).

And use Shakespeare aerials. Magazine tests have shown these to be better than others.

Piers du Pré
MBM Cruising Club enthusiast
www.dupre.co.uk/fsPlaydeau.htm

 

[yoda]

VHF Arial. I have a Hawk combined arial and wind direction indicator which saves space at the mast head and gives me something to judge the wind by when the instruments are turned off etc. Quite happy with it. Make sure it is fitted so you can see it from where you steer.

Wind instruments. I have been quite impressed with the Pastimo Navman range and with a little buttering up of the local supplier have achieved a price very close to that of the NASA range. Well worth considering.

Curved coachroof and flat hatch = need for wooden packing piece made to fit. Will require careful scribbing shaping and fitting.

Hope that is some help.

 

[Chris_Stannard]

Depending on how much you are prepared to spend, the Raytheon ST60 range is weel thought out and reliable. You can integrate speed, depth and wind into a system and if you are that way inclined integrate it with a Ray Marine GPS and/or radar. You can also get a multi display for the Nav station on which you can page through all the readings. If you are thinking along those lines it is better to have all the kit from one supplier rather than a number of instruments from different manufacturers as although they all say they are compatible, this is not necessarily the case. Ray Marine has it's own bus stanard, Seatalk, as do the other manufacturers. If you want NMEA out for other pieces of kit you either have to have a GPS or a Multi instrument.
I agree with the VHF, the higher the antenna the better. I know what every one says about performance, but look at the masthead connection and how it is protected from weather. Most VHF problems are caused by the antenna and most antenna problems are caused by poor connectors. And its a long way to go up to the mast head if your antenna connector gets water in and the transmitter performance disappears. My advice would be chose the antenna that has the best weaather protection.
Cant help on the hatch, and I do not know where you are based, but if you are round Cowes Eddy at EDI in east Cowes is an excellent worker in wood and does lots of the sort of ghatch fitting that you need.

Chris Stannard

 

[billmacfarlane]

Can only help on items 3 and 4.
Item 3. I use a Raytheon unit and am very happy with it. It's the most popular range of instruments members of my club use and there's not been too many complaints about them.
Item 4. VHF transmissions are usually line of site only, therefore the higher the aerial is the better the ability to transmit and receive. As someone else has said , Shakespeare aerials usually come out top of group tests , but the Hawk , with the built in wind indicator can be a useful tool.

 

[oldsaltoz]

G’day Malcolm.
You don’t say if the hatch comes with an internal liner (The bit the hatch seal sits / seals on). It’s not a big or complicated task but you must be spot on with any and all measurements, check them, note them then check them again.
You need to cut the opening and remove about an inch (25 mm) of balsa between the GRP skins, this area is then filled with a Micro-fibre and Epoxy Resin, this will provide a good seal and some extra strength. Next fit 4 timbers cut flush to the inside liner / cabin top; for best results and seal this can be placed when the fill is still wet; you can put some screws in after the epoxy sets. If you do not want the timber exposed to the weather you can set the bottom of the timber about an eighth of on inch above the roof line and glass it in, taking the glass over the timber and sealing it at the outer edge. If you have an insert for the seal, a simple rebate in the timber (And Glass if applied) will support the hatch. It’s a pity we cannot show drawings here, will have a go at sending one later if you would like one.
Tip; think about the location of screws and possible locking latches when taking the balsa out, you might like to make the epoxy filler a little deeper in some areas to take them. Also consider cutting the lower hole smaller by the thickness of timber selected, it will be a neater finish with the timber resting on the ledge.
Meantime.

Avagoodweekend Old Salt Oz.