Propex HS2000 and a 30 foot boat

MagicalArmchair

MagicalArmchair

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Apologies for the many questions - fit out time approaches! One outlet or two for the HS2000? And where to put them to get the most benefit?

http://www.albinballad.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/Ballad-58236-6BerthInterior.pdf

I will be turning the heating off when we all turn in (I don't think I'll invest in the Propex timer), so there doesn't seem much purpose to putting an outlet in the forecabin... although it would warm it up ready for sleep...

The Propex unit will be mounted port side (gas locker on the Stb side!), so an outlet under the chart table? Or duct the hot air forward and have its outlet between the two drawers on the front of the berth on the port side of the main saloon?

She is quite "cosy" down below (picture below to illustrate), so not too much space to heat - in the marina our fan heater warms the space up in no time at all. What are your thoughts?

Sailing-holiday-2013-2013-07-14-046.jpg
 
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I have installed the 1600 unit in a 29 ft yacht and the 2000 in a 26 ft traditional motor boat. In each case the heater was sufficient, although maybe a little slow in getting the space up to a comfortable temperature. The maximum length of warm ducting allowed is 5 metres but it is more efficient if left at the standard 2 metres. This is probably not enough for you to duct forward. If you can get warm air flowing down the centre of the boat it will help to heat the forecabin.

I cannot open your link as written, too many 'f's in pdff!
 
Thanks vyv_cox - fixed the pdf (F!)!!

I'm toying with the idea also of putting the heater in the same locker as the gas on the stb side (less of a copper pipe run). The gas will be the other side of the locker, and is in its own stainless gas compartment that is vented into the cockpit (which has drains which mean it will go out rather than into the bilges...). Is this a poor idea? Or less copper pipe means less opportunity to create a leak inadvertently?
 
It's the joints that are a potential leak source, not the tubing! Provided the copper tube is in a single length it makes no difference. Keeping possible electrical sparks well away from gas bottles seems like a good idea but in many cases may be impossible.
 
I've never done a gas install before but I am pretty handy with a spanner - and this being PBO, I am keen to do the whole install myself (with the added bonus if anything does go amiss I will understand and can fix anything that goes wrong). Soft copper pipe and flared joints? Or hard copper and soldered joints? Or Gas Safe engineer and loads of money?
 
MagicalArmchair said:
I've never done a gas install before but I am pretty handy with a spanner - and this being PBO, I am keen to do the whole install myself (with the added bonus if anything does go amiss I will understand and can fix anything that goes wrong). Soft copper pipe and flared joints? Or hard copper and soldered joints? Or Gas Safe engineer and loads of money?
Click to expand...

Compression fittings and soft copper. All the kit is available from CAK-tanks or from ASAP.
 
Dunno if it's relevant but when I had an Eber I insulated the ducting & it made a difference. I used strips of cut up fireblanket with foiled bubblewrap over near the heater itself & just foiled bubblewrap for the rest, held in place with cable ties. I had 2 outlets, one in the forecabin, the other (closing type) in the aft (sleeping) cabin which worked quite well as I just opened that one 1/2 an hour before retiring...
 
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