Prop shaft removal

[wiggy]

I have to remove my prop shaft (to replace cutlass bearing) and have some questions.
1. Does the shaft just pull through the stern gland.
2. Do I need to repack sterngland or can I just carefully push shaft through and re grease.
3. What will go wrong and what will be my frustration level by the end.
4. Have you seen the price of Christmas trees, I thought sailing was expensive!!!!!

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[ccscott49]

Slacken off the stern gland and yes it should pull straight out. Yes repack the stern gland, much easier to do it with shaft out. I dont know your cutlass layout, but they can sometimes be a swine to get out, you`ll find out!


<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[Strathglass]

1. Fairly straightforward on the Spring 25 with the twin rudders.
So no problem with clearence when pulling it out.
2. May get off with regreasing, but better to repack when the shaft is out.
3. Problems?. Perhaps unbolting the front coupling from the shaft.
Can't remember whether there is a P-bracket. If there is look at the bearing there as well.
4. Christmas trees. I have had an artifical one for several years. Although they are one of the few things that are less expensive up here. Sailing is expensive!!!!!!

Iain

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[AndrewB]

The main difficulty (in my experience) is to remove the collar that attaches the shaft to the gear-box, after you have uncoupled them. They are often held together by a tapered pin and a metal 'key' cut into the shaft, and these can be tough to remove if they've been there awhile. Heating may help, but care is needed. Sloshing the pin with a hammer is very tempting, but make sure the shaft is well supported and avoid bending anything! Once the pin is out, you may still need a 'puller' to break the grip of the key.

When the collar is off, ease off the screw tightening the stern gland packing, and the shaft should simply pull out from the bottom, assuming you have enough clearance. It helps to rotate as you pull.

Chances are you will displace the stern gland packing when the shaft is pushed back. For this reason you must expect to repack (and I don't agree with repacking the stern gland with the shaft out). It's an ideal opportunity also to replace the cutlass bearing.

 

[sjohn_gibson]

Getting the shaft flange (Shaft to gearbox connection) off can be done by removing the flexible coupling (if fitted) between the shaft flange and gearbox flange. Then without the flexible coupling reconnect the shaft flange direct to the gearbox flange with a suitable socket placed between them - the socket needs to smaller than the shaft diameter. Tighten the shaft flange and gearbox flange together - you have got the equivalent of a mechanical press with the socket reacting against the centre of the gearbox coupling and the shaft. The flange slides off the shaft under steady pressure saves all the hammering and damage. Make sure all grub screws clamping the coupling to the shaft are undone.

Once I got the shaft out I found corrosion and wear and had to buy a new one.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[rich]

YOU CAN NOT repack gland with the shaft OUT!

<hr width=100% size=1>rich )

 

[AndrewB]

That's a neat alternative to the puller! The tapered pin, or grub screws if that is your arrangement, still must be released first.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[LadyInBed]

Biggest problem is undoing bolts that hold the prop shaft to the gearbox - start applying penetrating oil now. You may have to use some heat. Use new bolts and stacks of grease on them when reassembling.
Take the opportunity to inspect the prop shaft for ware where they come into contact with the bearings.
If you have ware, and don’t have a flexible coupling fitted, fitting one will move the ware points on the shaft.
If there is a grub screw holding the cutlass bearing sleeve in, finding and undoing it without stripping the head can be a challenge.
You could also consider replacing the stern gland with maintenance free or self-lubricating one.


<hr width=100% size=1>