Prop painting again

[Liselle]

Its time to paint our aluminium Duo props again.
I was thinking of trying Blakes Mille Drive this time, anyone any experience? i.e does it stay on?

Last year I tried completely stripping them back, used an etch primer and a two pack black gloss, but it didnt last long, soon had large patches of paint missing.


I have completely stripped them back again, so ready to try something else. The blakes Mille drive appears to be a little cheaper that internationals prop o drev (which I have used with mixed results). Blakes state that the underwater primer should be used 1st before the Mille drive, but is that an etch primer? i.e suitable for bare aluminium.

 

[Peanuts]

Hi Kevin
First of all, Happy New Year to you and Sara.

2nd part, answer to your question, from a bare prop you are correct with etch prime, you then seemed to have missed the 2 part paint primer, then of course you apply the 2 part paint. This is all i do, never antifoulled the props and as you know I am usually doing 150-200 hours a year and mine are OK when I last looked at them - yesterday!
Hope this is of some help.

Steve

 

[Liselle]

Thanks Steve, a happy new year to you too.

I spoke to the sprayer last season when I had them painted and was assured that the etch primer was sufficient for top coat directly, may be this didnt help. The two part paint that you have in mind, is it a 2 part polyester paint?
or do you have a name/type for the etch primer, primer and top coat that you use, so I can ask some questions.

 

[jparham]

After 8 years of trying, I have come to the conclusion that nothing works on Ali duoprops. Problem is that the props aren't earthed (due to their rubber shock mounting between outer blades and inner splines) so the dreaded galvanics get in and raise the paint from the inside. I am awaiting a 'breakthrough in paints' from International that will stop galvanics eating mine. Might have to wait a while.

 

[Peanuts]

Hi
You are absolutely correct about this not helping, the etch is exactly as it states an etch, not a paint, so applying a top coat straight on an etch is certainly a big no go, that's why it didn't stay on. You need the correct 2 part primer on top of the etch and the top coat applied within the specified time limit, if you exceed the time the surface must be prepared as required, usually abraded with 400(ish) grade wet and dry.
I have used this system of painting my props for over 20 years and it works for me, if fact Sunrider 1 had the same props on for 18 years which in Poole harbour I believe is very good.

Steve

 

[alt]

[ QUOTE ]
After 8 years of trying, I have come to the conclusion that nothing works on Ali duoprops. Problem is that the props aren't earthed (due to their rubber shock mounting between outer blades and inner splines) so the dreaded galvanics get in and raise the paint from the inside

[/ QUOTE ]

What an imformative post, thank you

 

[hlb]

Never ever seen a prop painted, polished yes, but never seen paint, unless new of course, where it's done for show. Anti fouling aint going to help, as it's all goupy and will spoil the smooth lines, then it will fall off in lumps, adding to the unsmoothness, then with luck it will fall off.

 

[[2068]]

We're talking aluminium outdrive props here. They are all painted, or at least they are meant to be.

Whether you use Blakes Mille Drive or VC Prop O Drev is possibly not the issue: both are antifouls. The problem is getting the underlying paint to stick to the propellor.

I'm interested in this, as I've never managed to come up with any combination of paints that lasts a season. This two part primer, is it an International paint? Which one?

dv.

 

[Liselle]

Steve, (Peanut) you appear to have the solution to this problem with the two pack paint. Do you know the technical spec/name or type for all 3 coatings that you are using.

Just another point though, the etch primer I used (motor trade spec) also came off.
And although the paint came off the blades quite early on in the season, I didnt suffer any more corrosion to the props this year. Perhaps the move from Cobbs to Hythe helped.