Problem with VP 120S sail drive intake valve

[West Coast]

I have a VP 2003 with 120s sail drive, fitted in 1993. Problem I have is, as the season progresses, the plastic sea water intake valve mounted on the top of the drive becomes progressively harder to turn, almost seized by the end of the season. Does anyone else have the same problem? Any solutions?! I am concerned about replacing with a metal one due to possible dissimilar metal corrosion with the alloy drive casing........!

 

[scottie]

1/2" ss ball valve is what Volvo changed it to I believe.

 

[Dipper]

Mine's the same. I believe it's a common problem in earlier saildrives.

 

[Slowtack]

The valve body on my 120SB is plastic with a bronze spindle. The handwheel is plastic. After a run of more than say 2 hours the valve is harder than normal to close unless I use a wrench. I am reluctant to apply that extra force in case of damaging the handwheel. The only factor I can put the resistance down to is engine space heating. After say two hours cooling down it is again easier to close by hand.

 

[Stork_III]

I have a VP 2003 with 120s sail drive, fitted in 1993. Problem I have is, as the season progresses, the plastic sea water intake valve mounted on the top of the drive becomes progressively harder to turn, almost seized by the end of the season. Does anyone else have the same problem? Any solutions?! I am concerned about replacing with a metal one due to possible dissimilar metal corrosion with the alloy drive casing........!

On my '95 120s I made a aluminium handle with square drive similar to seacock, to replace the blue wheel handle, works a treat, as it is only 90deg turn. Volvo dealer can sell you a conversion kit at ££££££££££.

 

[Sans Bateau]

Been there. Next time you are out of the water change the valve for a bronze or DZ brass one, I did mine last year.

 

[Martin_J]

Keyparts do the replacement valve together with an adapter to allow it to screw into the gear housing at a good price..

Link below shows the 120S-B (which you possibly have) as an example..
120S-B Upper Gear Unit

and below is the 120S-D that I have...
120S-D Upper Gear Unit

Check out the optional valve parts (nos. 65)

It looks like they share the same gear housing... Maybe they just didn't update the 120S-B diagram with the update seacock..

 

[West Coast]

Thanks all for the replies

Galadriel - I was thinking of this replacement route, but is there any issue with corrosion between the bronze valve and the aluminium casing of the drive?

Martin j - thanks - will investigate this option, is the keyparts replacement a plastic or metal one?

 

[Martin_J]

WestCoast.. Keypart supply a metal valve but what was great was that they also included the required compression washers (since the fittings are parallel thread).

 

[VicS]

Thanks all for the replies

Galadriel - I was thinking of this replacement route, but is there any issue with corrosion between the bronze valve and the aluminium casing of the drive?

Martin j - thanks - will investigate this option, is the keyparts replacement a plastic or metal one?

I'd not think it wise to screw bronze or stainless steel directly into the aluminium.

Is the " nipple", part # 65D, in the diagram in the second of Martin_J's links not an insulating spacer ?

 

[corinthmistral]

have just replaced this myself, for the same reason. this is a common problem on this saildrive. bought the parts from Volspec, Tollesbury. Cost about twenty quid for the new parts. now it works perfectly and i have a bronze ball valve i can shut on and off easily. points to note that i found difficult:
1. you need an extra length of rubber hose, or a 90 deg fitting. This is because the outlet of the new fitting points "up" not towards the water pump.
2. getting the old fitting off was incredibly difficult due to space constraints and because there is no hex profile on the original fitting, just a flat on one side. after 20+ years in place it was hard to shift. i used a pipe wrench with sharp teeth in the end to get it started then it was a slow job turning it 1/4 turn at a time.
I ptfe'd the thread and then coated with waterpump grease (i.e. thick grease) so i stand some chance of getting it out in the future if i ever need to.
good luck!