Pressure relief valve

mersey

Well-Known Member
Joined
29 Jan 2008
Messages
393
Visit site
While in the bilges today, I noticed I don't have a pressure relief valve on my calorifier and water is building up..

My setup is as follows:

Tanks are low down and water is pulled up by a Jabsco Sensor Max VSD 17, 31755-0200, Running pressure: 1.4bar (20psi). Shut-off pressure: 2.1bar (30psi). No need for an accumulator tank with this pump.

Calorifier is a Allpa Oceanhelm Nautic Boiler 20L, 3.5 BAR.

Appears to be a non-return valve on water out (top), connected onto the calorifer.

The cold water in (bottom), has a drain valve connected to the calorifier then a non-return valve connected to that.

I won't go into the engine connections as I'm happy with these.

No pressure relief valve anywhere, not on the calorifier or on the hot water output line.

No expansion vessel/tank anywhere.

The pressure is leaking out of the handle(not the drain valve's hole) that opens the drain valve connected at the bottom of the calorifier, cold water in.

I understand I need to put a pressure relief valve on the hot water output, presumably that can be before or after the non-return.

I'm looking first to install a pressure relief valve, then later an expansion tank, can live with the small hot water loss in the mean time, if its coming out of a pressure relief valve and can be routed overboard.

My questions are:

If I install a pressure relief valve, is it likely the existing drain will stop leaking?

The pressure relief valve needs to be inline, rather than going directly onto the calorifier as a seperate device. Can anyone recommend a suitable one, that as well as and in/out for the water also has a port for connecting a hose, that I can then route overboard?

Thanks!
 
It is likely to stop - I though they all had PVRs. Must be quite a bit of pressure when it gets hot.

I fitted a hose on mine running to a plastic skin fitting on the transom.

PM your email and I'll send you a manual that includes stuff about PVRs.
 
You can buy a suitable pressure relief valve at any plumbers merchants, less than a fiver a last time I got one.

What I'm not clear on, is if a standard pressure relief valve has a hose output, as I need to use it's main it/out ports for the hot water. Does the pressurised water not just come out from the bottom of the usually red cap?
 
The PR valve doesnt have any in out ports, if your calorifier doesnt have a port for the valve then you will need to fit a T into the tank hot water out pipe close to the tank and fit the valve in that. The valve has a spout to fit a drain tube. I vent mine to a gallon polybottle and just empty this now and again
 
While in the bilges today, I noticed I don't have a pressure relief valve on my calorifier and water is building up..

My setup is as follows:

Tanks are low down and water is pulled up by a Jabsco Sensor Max VSD 17, 31755-0200, Running pressure: 1.4bar (20psi). Shut-off pressure: 2.1bar (30psi). No need for an accumulator tank with this pump.

Calorifier is a Allpa Oceanhelm Nautic Boiler 20L, 3.5 BAR.

Appears to be a non-return valve on water out (top), connected onto the calorifer.

The cold water in (bottom), has a drain valve connected to the calorifier then a non-return valve connected to that.

I won't go into the engine connections as I'm happy with these.

No pressure relief valve anywhere, not on the calorifier or on the hot water output line.

No expansion vessel/tank anywhere.

The pressure is leaking out of the handle(not the drain valve's hole) that opens the drain valve connected at the bottom of the calorifier, cold water in.

I understand I need to put a pressure relief valve on the hot water output, presumably that can be before or after the non-return.

I'm looking first to install a pressure relief valve, then later an expansion tank, can live with the small hot water loss in the mean time, if its coming out of a pressure relief valve and can be routed overboard.

My questions are:

If I install a pressure relief valve, is it likely the existing drain will stop leaking?

The pressure relief valve needs to be inline, rather than going directly onto the calorifier as a seperate device. Can anyone recommend a suitable one, that as well as and in/out for the water also has a port for connecting a hose, that I can then route overboard?

Thanks!

We have a Quicks 20lt clarifier with PRV and a pump, when the water gets hot the PRV works venting water into the bilge. After looking at expansion vessels and hoses off the PRV we came across a simple solution, when the engine is running the water pump is off so we open the hot tap in the sink this takes care of the expansion problem and no more water in the bilges.
 
It depends on the pressure you want. The one for my calorifer was a special order and was lots more than that. It does have a port that you can fit a hose on.

As far as I remember the standard plumbers valve is 3 bar. So as long as your water pump pressure cut off is less than 42 psi one of hose would be fine.
 
Thanks everyone.

So am I right in saying that either of these pictures..

http://www.aquafax.co.uk/html/product_specification.asp?ID=23750
http://www.plumbworld.co.uk/12-3-bar-mf-pressure-relief-231-59

The bottom of it would screw on a tee I add to my setup, and the side port is for where I would add the hose for the vented water?

The Aqufax looks right . Set up as you state. NB not sure how you would assertain the correct relief pressure for your calorifier tho' (guess it would have to be higher than the FW feed pump pressure)I was lucky as I exchanged old for new .
 
Last edited:
Thanks everyone.

So am I right in saying that either of these pictures..

http://www.aquafax.co.uk/html/product_specification.asp?ID=23750
http://www.plumbworld.co.uk/12-3-bar-mf-pressure-relief-231-59

The bottom of it would screw on a tee I add to my setup, and the side port is for where I would add the hose for the vented water?

Yes but you don't need a pressure gauge so save yourself some money and get one without and check the pressure rating of your pump first, if you get a 3 bar valve and your pump is more than that you will get a lot of water in the bilge!
 
Last edited:
Thanks all.

Pump is 2.1bar (30psi) at shut-off, Calorifier is 3.5 BAR.

So I guess a 3 BAR pressure relief valve would be resonable? Then later I can add an expansion tank at around 2.5 BAR ?
 
Top