Preparing Decks for Painting

claymore

claymore

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Planning to paint the decks of Claymore - the existing grey grp has faded a bit and when I apply polish it doesn't stay shiney for long.
So - do I have to flat all smooth surfaces right back to matt before applying paint or does a primer give the key necessary.
Experts will detect a fairly low level of knowledge or understanding here - I'm also a useless painter but know a man who can. My intention is to get it ready for him to do the painting.
Finally - with the exception of Kilter - would any of my friends from Scufflebutt who happen to see this kindly sod off as I need slightly more helpful answers than those offered previously
tartan paint indeed... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
"Planning to paint the decks of Claymore "
Doesn't much matter what existing sheen is then. As long as there is no evidence of peeling or blistering, grind or sand back, leaving a smooth keyed surface. Prime if required and paint away. Make sure you choose a UV resistant paint and don't under-estimate the amount of work involved.
Good luck.
 
Having completed a similar job on Fairweather this summer, I can tell you its a big job!

I contacted International Paints and got somew tech advise, which in short was
Over GRP no primer required
2 coats of under coat
2 coats of Top coat ( I used Toplak)

Abrade and wash down all areas to be painted...dont use wash up liquid as it may have lanolin in it!

I split my decks up into 4 sections and tried to do them each in one hit...this avoids having to abrade in between coats.

I found that using plastic masking tape is much better than the paper stuff if you are having to leave the job between coats as you may be able to leave it in place.

I applied the paint with a brush..top quality synthetic job and then rolled it off with a mini roller... I know this is the otherway round to the accepted way but it worked for me and gave a very even coat hgowever with a slighty stipped effect.

Im very pleased with my 'new' decks and superstructure but it took 7 x 2day 14hrs days!! and I'm bl##dy glad its over.

Its also like a skating rink..will deal with this next spring before I have a nasty accident

I last thing I was painting over existing single pack paint so I had to use conventional paint ( Toplac) I think if I was going direct onto GRP I would consider using 2 pack as its far more durable.

Good luck.. Nick

PS there was an article about some one who 2pot painted their Rival (I think) down in Greece in one of the Mags early this year.
 
Good advice from Nick. I can add from experience that you really need to roughen the surfaces to get the paint to stick. On the Westerley decy, there is a moulded-in pattern of checks (no jokes about tartan please) and while the raised bits roughened up OK, the depressions did not. I did not do the original job and have to suffer bits flaking and peeling off every year. Where I repaint, I try to get into the hollows with a small bit of sandpaper or steel wool.
 
I’ve just finished painting, used a 2 pack polyurethane paint, preparation was pressure wash than scotchbrite pad then a good going over with panel wipe. I applied the paint with small rollers but used the better quality ones that tend not to leave the bubbles in the finish, for the edges I used a foam brush. Hulls, so I’m told, now look better than when I first sprayed them 13 yrs ago. Still stand by the textured exterior paint for the decks, although they need a coat of viniguard between it and the 2 pack. Good luck
 
G'day John,

It's very important to clean "before" sanding, contaminants like silicon and lanolin will not be removed by sanding, just spread.

A two pot polyurethane will last many years, look for one with long chain polymers, it will have very good self leveling.

Sanding can be done with an industrial orbital (Not belt) sander and a 200 grit paper for starters, then perhaps 250 or 400 to finish, look any shiny bits in low areas and hand them or you may have flaking problems down the track.

When sanding is finished wash well, a pressure cleaner is good, let it dry and wipe with the thinner you have for the type of paint being used or Acetone, just make sure you have lots of white cotton rags and keep changing them.

Masking tape should be removed as soon as the final coat is applied, follow the painter round and lift it as he goes.

Other than that all you have is lot of hard sanding and squinting your eyes trying so spot defects through the glare of the sun (if you get some).

Avagoodweekend......
 
Well, you do sound like you know what you are talking about me ageing salt. Fancy getting away from all that tedious sun for a week or two and sampling some fine beers into the bargain?
I have a sander.
 
Now there's a coincidence John,

I have a sander too and only 42 feet of hull to sand back and antifoul, lucky for me my son will be sanding the other hull, and I got the shady side.

It would nice to lob over there now that winter is closing (NOT); Thank for the kind offer but I feel I must decline. I still shiver when even thing about my last visit to London back in 83.

O)h, just one more tip "your finish will no better than your preparation" so try remember that it only takes an hour to apply the 3 top coats of paint but what seems like a lifetime getting it ready.

Avagoodweekend......
 
Nyargh! I just read my post again and remembered that steel wool is a no-no. Well to be honest I read the later thread on the subject.

I know I used something of the sort, maybe a stainless steel pot cleaner or something. Maybe Claymore has a smooth deck surface in which case the job will be easier.
 
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