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Talbot
Active member
Re: Seized Stanchions
The only way to free it that I know off is to heat it up until just before it melts ! worked for several items for me over the years, but not really a starter if you dont want to remove stanchion base from deck! I have tried all sorts of other things and none of them really worked as well as the heat and bashing with a big stick.
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The only way to free it that I know off is to heat it up until just before it melts ! worked for several items for me over the years, but not really a starter if you dont want to remove stanchion base from deck! I have tried all sorts of other things and none of them really worked as well as the heat and bashing with a big stick.
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boatless
New member
Re: Seized Stanchions
Cut it off flush with the socket, drill down the wall of the remaining tube in a couple of places and then break it at the weak points?
<hr width=100% size=1>my opinion is complete rubbish, probably.
Cut it off flush with the socket, drill down the wall of the remaining tube in a couple of places and then break it at the weak points?
<hr width=100% size=1>my opinion is complete rubbish, probably.
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Benbow
New member
Re: Seized Stanchions
How about this. You actually want to shrink the stanchion, heating will expand it*.
In the past in slightly similar situations I have poured liquid nitrogen onto the inner piece with instant sucess. However I would not recommend this unless you can turn your boat upside down and dip the end of the stanchion into the LN2 ! But what about packing around the stanchion with solid dry ice, leave to get as cold as you can and then trying to turn it out ? Dry ice is readily available.**
Maybe worth a try - it will work in 5 minutes or not at all.
*Although I have to say that heating does often work, presumably because the relative movement as it expands breaks the join.
** add boring comments about potential hazards if you hold dry ice on bare skin or shut yourself in a small room with it.
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How about this. You actually want to shrink the stanchion, heating will expand it*.
In the past in slightly similar situations I have poured liquid nitrogen onto the inner piece with instant sucess. However I would not recommend this unless you can turn your boat upside down and dip the end of the stanchion into the LN2 ! But what about packing around the stanchion with solid dry ice, leave to get as cold as you can and then trying to turn it out ? Dry ice is readily available.**
Maybe worth a try - it will work in 5 minutes or not at all.
*Although I have to say that heating does often work, presumably because the relative movement as it expands breaks the join.
** add boring comments about potential hazards if you hold dry ice on bare skin or shut yourself in a small room with it.
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tome
New member
Re: Seized Stanchions
Brian
Never tried this, but am told that soaking the joint in Coca-Cola over several days can break down the corrosive powder and free the stanchion. Be interested to hear if it actually works!
Tom
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Brian
Never tried this, but am told that soaking the joint in Coca-Cola over several days can break down the corrosive powder and free the stanchion. Be interested to hear if it actually works!
Tom
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broadcaster
New member
Re: Seized Stanchions
Hi,
Just a suggestion which I have never done myself, but have you tried grinding a slot in the stanchion using a Dremel tool with a long slim grinding tool. You could probably try and pry it out.
Andy
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Hi,
Just a suggestion which I have never done myself, but have you tried grinding a slot in the stanchion using a Dremel tool with a long slim grinding tool. You could probably try and pry it out.
Andy
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VictorII
New member
Re: Seized Stanchions
None of the comments I've ever seen on this subject seem to salvage the base. I'm afraid I also drilled through the bolts and destroyed the base while removing a stanchion last year. Usually the bolts are stainless so they are drilled through much slower than the aluminium. This always destroys the latter. If you want to keep the rail in one piece, destroy the base. But since the stanchion is already dead, perhaps some other method might work.
Moodyowners.org.uk have a full explanation of the process but it seems to be behind a userID now.
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None of the comments I've ever seen on this subject seem to salvage the base. I'm afraid I also drilled through the bolts and destroyed the base while removing a stanchion last year. Usually the bolts are stainless so they are drilled through much slower than the aluminium. This always destroys the latter. If you want to keep the rail in one piece, destroy the base. But since the stanchion is already dead, perhaps some other method might work.
Moodyowners.org.uk have a full explanation of the process but it seems to be behind a userID now.
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DanTribe
Well-known member
Re: Seized Stanchions
I had this problem last year & tried most of the above suggestions [never thought of the nitrogen trick].
Final answer, after several weeks, was an angle grinder & all new bases.
It was hard to believe that the things could get so gunged up.
Dan
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I had this problem last year & tried most of the above suggestions [never thought of the nitrogen trick].
Final answer, after several weeks, was an angle grinder & all new bases.
It was hard to believe that the things could get so gunged up.
Dan
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jimi
Well-known member
Re: Seized Stanchions
If you start the engine with that no shake it loose?
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If you start the engine with that no shake it loose?
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mriley
Member
Re: Seized Stanchions
So what can be done to stop the stanchions seizing solid to the bases in the first place???
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So what can be done to stop the stanchions seizing solid to the bases in the first place???
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jerryat
Active member
Re: Seized Stanchions
Hi mriley!
It's extemely simple. Each year, at laying up, remove the stanchions, smear with Blakes seacock grease (or similar waterproof type) smear inside of bases and re-assemble. I have done this without fail for the last fifteen years on my current boat (and on previous boats as well) and have NEVER failed to slide them out at any time.
Hope this helps.
Good sailing!
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Hi mriley!
It's extemely simple. Each year, at laying up, remove the stanchions, smear with Blakes seacock grease (or similar waterproof type) smear inside of bases and re-assemble. I have done this without fail for the last fifteen years on my current boat (and on previous boats as well) and have NEVER failed to slide them out at any time.
Hope this helps.
Good sailing!
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bruce
New member
Re: Seized Stanchions
you could cut the stantion at the base, insert hacksaw blade into the old tube, reattach handle and saw through the stantion wall, taking a punch/screwdriver and separate tubing from base. may take 2 cuts. where in fla?
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you could cut the stantion at the base, insert hacksaw blade into the old tube, reattach handle and saw through the stantion wall, taking a punch/screwdriver and separate tubing from base. may take 2 cuts. where in fla?
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jimi
Well-known member
Re: Seized Stanchions
Attach dodgers to them and then come sailing with me again .. we'll soon get the buggers loose .. jist remember to tie yer glasses tae yer heid this time!
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Attach dodgers to them and then come sailing with me again .. we'll soon get the buggers loose .. jist remember to tie yer glasses tae yer heid this time!
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bruce
New member
Re: Seized Stanchions
different Bruce, but thanks for the offer...
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different Bruce, but thanks for the offer...
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DanTribe
Well-known member
Re: Seized Stanchions
In my case I replaced the aluminium stanchions & bases with stainless ones
Dan
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In my case I replaced the aluminium stanchions & bases with stainless ones
Dan
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Birdseye
Well-known member
Re: Seized Stanchions
If you have aluminium stanchions in stainless bases then you will be in deep do-do corrosion wise. The formation of the aluminium oxide (which is bulkier than the aluminium and therefore causes the joint to seize up) will be even faster.
<hr width=100% size=1>this post is a personal opinion, and you should not base your actions on it.
If you have aluminium stanchions in stainless bases then you will be in deep do-do corrosion wise. The formation of the aluminium oxide (which is bulkier than the aluminium and therefore causes the joint to seize up) will be even faster.
<hr width=100% size=1>this post is a personal opinion, and you should not base your actions on it.