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William_H
Well-known member
Re: Replacing Wheel Steering
Coat the bolts liberally with Duralac ( sticky yellow like paint in a tube known also as Cocky S..t ) or simmilar anti corrosive jointing compoyund. Yes it's still a good idea to check the bolts are free every year .
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Coat the bolts liberally with Duralac ( sticky yellow like paint in a tube known also as Cocky S..t ) or simmilar anti corrosive jointing compoyund. Yes it's still a good idea to check the bolts are free every year .
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SlowlyButSurely
Active member
Re: Replacing Wheel Steering
Just use ordinary grease on the bolts. That'll stop them seizing up.
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Just use ordinary grease on the bolts. That'll stop them seizing up.
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Lynette
Member
Re: Replacing Wheel Steering
I've just bought a replacement steering chain from Kent Bearings, Neptune Close, Rochester, Kent ME2 4LT (Tel: 01634 720444), who I can recommend for their helpfulness.
Motorbike shops carry some chains that may be suitable (not one that fitted my old Whitlock though), or check Yellow Pages "Chain Manufacturers". If you are desperate, you might even try the company that made the pedestal!
I've just bought a replacement steering chain from Kent Bearings, Neptune Close, Rochester, Kent ME2 4LT (Tel: 01634 720444), who I can recommend for their helpfulness.
Motorbike shops carry some chains that may be suitable (not one that fitted my old Whitlock though), or check Yellow Pages "Chain Manufacturers". If you are desperate, you might even try the company that made the pedestal!
dickh
New member
Re: Replacing Wheel Steering
For chain try Bearing Services Ltd or Fenner - both in the yellow pages, probably under Power Transmission. The chain is probably ½" Pitch British Standard or ½" Pitch ANSI(American). If you have a sample they will match it for you - show them the new sprocket, not the old chain. (9/16"/14mm doesn't sound correct to me) Chain is measured from the centre line of one roller to the centre line of the next roller. Don't measure the sprocket as it won't be accurate. As long as it is well greased you should get away with standard steel chain.
Another company for stainless/anticorrosion chain is TSUBAKI - Tel 01623688788
Agin use DURALOC to prevent corrosion between ss and Aluminium OR grease works OK on my outboard...
<hr width=100% size=1>dickh
I'd rather be sailing...
/forums/images/icons/smile.gif<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by dickh on 18/08/2003 15:29 (server time).</FONT></P>
For chain try Bearing Services Ltd or Fenner - both in the yellow pages, probably under Power Transmission. The chain is probably ½" Pitch British Standard or ½" Pitch ANSI(American). If you have a sample they will match it for you - show them the new sprocket, not the old chain. (9/16"/14mm doesn't sound correct to me) Chain is measured from the centre line of one roller to the centre line of the next roller. Don't measure the sprocket as it won't be accurate. As long as it is well greased you should get away with standard steel chain.
Another company for stainless/anticorrosion chain is TSUBAKI - Tel 01623688788
Agin use DURALOC to prevent corrosion between ss and Aluminium OR grease works OK on my outboard...
<hr width=100% size=1>dickh
I'd rather be sailing...
/forums/images/icons/smile.gif<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by dickh on 18/08/2003 15:29 (server time).</FONT></P>
richardandtracy
New member
Re: Replacing Wheel Steering
Seizing of SS in aluminium can be greatly reduced by using a compatible grade of SS.
You aren't going to like this, but the galvanic potential of 321 stainless more closely matches that of aluminium (particularly cast LM6) than 304/316SS (A2/A4 bolts) and is much less likely to seize if inadequately protected. Unfortunately no-one makes bolts in this grade, so you would have to make your own from hex bar.. I've got some round bar of this grade, and I warn you it's a pig to work on the lathe.
The use SS helicoil inserts is very good - the insert corrodes the aluminium & sticks hard, but the bolt doesn't as it's a SS-SS joint & therefore there is no galvanic corrosion at this interface. Helicoil insert starter packs cost rather a lot though as they consist of a special tap, insertion tool & 5 or 6 helicoils. May be worth it for your peace of mind, and it's good engineering practice anyway. All threaded joints in aluminium should be helicoiled to make the thread last longer.
Failing making your own or using helicoils, gunge them up with anything that'll stop electrical contact between the aluminium & SS and also stop the water getting into the joint.
Regards
Richard.
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Seizing of SS in aluminium can be greatly reduced by using a compatible grade of SS.
You aren't going to like this, but the galvanic potential of 321 stainless more closely matches that of aluminium (particularly cast LM6) than 304/316SS (A2/A4 bolts) and is much less likely to seize if inadequately protected. Unfortunately no-one makes bolts in this grade, so you would have to make your own from hex bar.. I've got some round bar of this grade, and I warn you it's a pig to work on the lathe.
The use SS helicoil inserts is very good - the insert corrodes the aluminium & sticks hard, but the bolt doesn't as it's a SS-SS joint & therefore there is no galvanic corrosion at this interface. Helicoil insert starter packs cost rather a lot though as they consist of a special tap, insertion tool & 5 or 6 helicoils. May be worth it for your peace of mind, and it's good engineering practice anyway. All threaded joints in aluminium should be helicoiled to make the thread last longer.
Failing making your own or using helicoils, gunge them up with anything that'll stop electrical contact between the aluminium & SS and also stop the water getting into the joint.
Regards
Richard.
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