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Norman_E
Well-known member
Re: Soft deck
You need to know what is underneath. End grain balsa wood is often used in yacht construction to fill the space between the outer GRP deck and the inner layer. It provides both insulation and stiffness to the structure, but if water gets in it can rot, leaving the outer surface unsupported. The boat builder should be able to tell you what the construction was at that point.
You need to know what is underneath. End grain balsa wood is often used in yacht construction to fill the space between the outer GRP deck and the inner layer. It provides both insulation and stiffness to the structure, but if water gets in it can rot, leaving the outer surface unsupported. The boat builder should be able to tell you what the construction was at that point.
Gothik29
New member
Re: Soft deck
The foredecks on hobie catamarans used to have a similar problem going soft after people walked on them (getting on and off the boats when launching and recovery).
A trick which appeared to work (although I'm not sure if it was a permanent fix) was to lightly drill into the decks being careful not to drill all the way through. You then mixed up some epoxy resin (preferably not araldite as it's too thick) and used a syringe to inject the resin into the holes. Most chemists will sell you syringes. As long as the resin was able to penetrate along any fracture lines, it appeared to reinforce the problem area, but I've no idea how long this lasted.
A quick covering of gel coat usually covered up the damage.
I'd investigate what's underneath (as Norman_E's suggestion) first though.
The foredecks on hobie catamarans used to have a similar problem going soft after people walked on them (getting on and off the boats when launching and recovery).
A trick which appeared to work (although I'm not sure if it was a permanent fix) was to lightly drill into the decks being careful not to drill all the way through. You then mixed up some epoxy resin (preferably not araldite as it's too thick) and used a syringe to inject the resin into the holes. Most chemists will sell you syringes. As long as the resin was able to penetrate along any fracture lines, it appeared to reinforce the problem area, but I've no idea how long this lasted.
A quick covering of gel coat usually covered up the damage.
I'd investigate what's underneath (as Norman_E's suggestion) first though.
MarkGrubb
New member
Re: Soft deck
My boat has this problem. The decks are made of sandwhich construction. I don't know what the core is, but probably balsa. Parts of the coach roof are soft under foot, and the side decks can be heard to crack when trodden on. I think the problem is that water has got in via the through deck fittings, which weren't properly installed, and rotted the core.
The previous owner tried to fix the problem on the fore and aft decks by drilling holes and injecting resin, but this eventually failed. The final, and hopefully more permanent solution, was to cut off the top layer of fibreglass then cut out and replace the core and use plenty of epoxy to fill the voids etc. The orginal top layer of fibre glass was then put back. Quite a large project, but manageable by anyone confident with GRP layup etc. (fibreglass, epoxy and so fourth).
I'll leave the side decks and coach roof as its not really a problem for the sort of sailing I do at the moment, which is coastal and some trips across the channel.
Can your friend live with the problem?
My boat has this problem. The decks are made of sandwhich construction. I don't know what the core is, but probably balsa. Parts of the coach roof are soft under foot, and the side decks can be heard to crack when trodden on. I think the problem is that water has got in via the through deck fittings, which weren't properly installed, and rotted the core.
The previous owner tried to fix the problem on the fore and aft decks by drilling holes and injecting resin, but this eventually failed. The final, and hopefully more permanent solution, was to cut off the top layer of fibreglass then cut out and replace the core and use plenty of epoxy to fill the voids etc. The orginal top layer of fibre glass was then put back. Quite a large project, but manageable by anyone confident with GRP layup etc. (fibreglass, epoxy and so fourth).
I'll leave the side decks and coach roof as its not really a problem for the sort of sailing I do at the moment, which is coastal and some trips across the channel.
Can your friend live with the problem?
ex-Gladys
Well-known member
Re: Soft deck
The original fitout of Gladys some muppet cut away the balsa and lower layer of glass to fit the pushpit feet. Other cables running in through the area meant loads of wet soggy balsa. Using Oldsaltoz's tips, we cut away the damage (we were far too delicate in retrospect and could have done it more aggressively), cut out some thick pieces of marine ply to fit and then epoxied them in, and used epoxy and woven mat over the top. Redrilled the holes large, filled them with epocy and microfibres, then drilled them right size and used sealant to bed everything down.
Very satisfying job to do, and the reinstatement only took a couple of hours. The whole job using an angle grinder wopuld have taken 4 hours, but our caution meant it took a day to cut out.
The original fitout of Gladys some muppet cut away the balsa and lower layer of glass to fit the pushpit feet. Other cables running in through the area meant loads of wet soggy balsa. Using Oldsaltoz's tips, we cut away the damage (we were far too delicate in retrospect and could have done it more aggressively), cut out some thick pieces of marine ply to fit and then epoxied them in, and used epoxy and woven mat over the top. Redrilled the holes large, filled them with epocy and microfibres, then drilled them right size and used sealant to bed everything down.
Very satisfying job to do, and the reinstatement only took a couple of hours. The whole job using an angle grinder wopuld have taken 4 hours, but our caution meant it took a day to cut out.
oldsaltoz
New member
Re: Soft deck
G'day Sharkfan,
You can drill 6mm hole through the step top layer of glass, take care not to drill through the bottom later if glass, most steps use Balsa, some use foam but if you have foam then it is the wrong type (Not closed cell foam).
To preserve the topside finish this is best done from the underside, however being steps access may be impossible.
Drill the hole and check the material the pulls out, is it wet? is it balsa wood? is it Foam?
Having established it's wet or rotted you should continue to drill holes about 50mm apart to find the full extent of the problem, checking the drill waste till all the outer holes produce dry material. You now know how much and what shape needs to be removed.
A plunge router with a small bit set to not cut the second layer of glass will make short and neat work of removing the glass. You then need to remove all the old material and remove a further 25mm under the now exposed edge, clean and sand off any remaining material on the second layer of glass and wipe with Acetone ensuring all areas are very dry.
Look around for any deck fittings that may have allowed the water in and remove them, drill out any holes at least 10mm oversize and fill them with epoxy resin mixed with micro fibres and re drill to the required size after 24 hours of curing.
Cut a cardboard template of the area to be filled and cut some "Closed Cell Foam" to size, then cut the foam into 4 so that it can be pushed in under the remaining lip around the outside, do this as a dry run to make all bits will slide into place.
Next mix up some micro balloons and epoxy resin to about toothpaste thickness and put a layer in the area to be repaired and make sure you have spread it on the lower and upper sides of the lip around the edge.
Drill 10mm holes on a 50mm grid in the foam and place it onto the layer of balloons, press lightly to get the foam at the required level, the holes will allow any trapped air and excess balloons to be squeezed out.
You can now add more balloons and replace the glass you cut out to start with, again letting the air or excess balloons pass through the holes you drilled earlier, or you can let the layer of balloons cure for 24 hours and sand them then apply new glass.
I hope this helps, let us know if you need more details and how the project goes.
Avagoodweekend......
G'day Sharkfan,
You can drill 6mm hole through the step top layer of glass, take care not to drill through the bottom later if glass, most steps use Balsa, some use foam but if you have foam then it is the wrong type (Not closed cell foam).
To preserve the topside finish this is best done from the underside, however being steps access may be impossible.
Drill the hole and check the material the pulls out, is it wet? is it balsa wood? is it Foam?
Having established it's wet or rotted you should continue to drill holes about 50mm apart to find the full extent of the problem, checking the drill waste till all the outer holes produce dry material. You now know how much and what shape needs to be removed.
A plunge router with a small bit set to not cut the second layer of glass will make short and neat work of removing the glass. You then need to remove all the old material and remove a further 25mm under the now exposed edge, clean and sand off any remaining material on the second layer of glass and wipe with Acetone ensuring all areas are very dry.
Look around for any deck fittings that may have allowed the water in and remove them, drill out any holes at least 10mm oversize and fill them with epoxy resin mixed with micro fibres and re drill to the required size after 24 hours of curing.
Cut a cardboard template of the area to be filled and cut some "Closed Cell Foam" to size, then cut the foam into 4 so that it can be pushed in under the remaining lip around the outside, do this as a dry run to make all bits will slide into place.
Next mix up some micro balloons and epoxy resin to about toothpaste thickness and put a layer in the area to be repaired and make sure you have spread it on the lower and upper sides of the lip around the edge.
Drill 10mm holes on a 50mm grid in the foam and place it onto the layer of balloons, press lightly to get the foam at the required level, the holes will allow any trapped air and excess balloons to be squeezed out.
You can now add more balloons and replace the glass you cut out to start with, again letting the air or excess balloons pass through the holes you drilled earlier, or you can let the layer of balloons cure for 24 hours and sand them then apply new glass.
I hope this helps, let us know if you need more details and how the project goes.
Avagoodweekend......