blueglass
Well-Known Member
Stages 1 to 4 previously posted, and searchable if you missed them (and care)
So........ we returned to the boat in Challons sur Saone for a month onboard to slowly wend our way down to the Med. A very conveniently located Carrefours supermarche was a great opportuntity to load up with provisions, knowing from past experience on the canals that this can be a major problem. We were glad to be on the river sytem with the canals behind us. Don't get me wrong - we wouldn't have missed it for the world but eventually began to find the surroundings repetitive and a little claustrophobic. It wasn't all quite like Rick's Steins odyssey, with a gourmet restauraunt at every turn!
So after a few days enjoying Challon's excellent eateries and catching up with some fellow travellers from earlier in the trip we set off down the Saone. The more open scenery, clean waters and fresh air were wonderful.
As before, we were in no hurry and we stopped off at Tournus, Macon, and Trevoux and then on down to Lyon where we were to pick up some friends who were flying out to join us for a week. After various warnings from a variety of sources including this good forum, about boat theft/vandalism in the city we decided on an impromptu mooring at Ile Barbe on the outskirts. Despite the no mooring sign several others were tied up here, and for the same reason. A 3 euro busride took us into town where we met our friends and did the sights of Lyon. A fine city well worth the visit.
The next stage was down to the confluence of the Saone and the Rhone where the water changed colour to a pale green and the current picked up another 1 to 2 knots in our favour. The surrounding hills and wild scenery was only occasionally punctuated by industrial areas.
Locks were now few and far between and although big and deep, very user friendly with floating bollards. On entering the first one, is when of course I discover that my bowthruster, supposedly repaired back in Digoin on our last leg, decided to take a break. Somewhere in the line between joystick and propellor is a dodgy contact. I have made and remade them all several times only for the intermittent problem to re occur. It works fine to port but nothing to starboard. I was actually pleased when it broke down completely in Digoin and the local engineer for a boathire firm, who's whole fleet were fitted with the same sidepower unit said he knew them inside out. 15 mins of circuit testing identified a faulty joystick control which was duly replaced with immediate success. Great! and only 50 Euros for the job! But now 5 cruising days later, it's back again, damn it. No big problem, though, once tied up, relax with a cup of coffee and watch the world disappear.
After stops at Vienne, Condrieu, and Andance we chose the city of Valence, with it's nearby railway station to drop off our passengers who reluctantly make their way back to Lyon for their return flight.
After a couple of days enjoying the comforts of a proper marina with shorepower we set off downstream once again. Stopovers on the Rhone are few and far between but all were really great places to be. We fetched up that evening at a little place called Viviers, where we tied up next to an Italian couple on their way to the Genoa boat show to display their brand new Linnsen Grand Sturdy, on behalf of the boatbuilders.
We were finding private boats a very rare sight now, having passed only 2 sailboats that day, making their way up (presumably) from the Med to overwinter. Viviers was an unexpected delight with its labyrinth of narrow cobbled streets and monastery perched high over the town.
The architecture and ambience of this area was now taking on a definite "South of France" feel. The pantiled roofs of Viviers was a good example.
The next leg took us through more superb scenery with glimpses of the distant Alps then down to the massive Bollene lock. Inexplicably Mr Sidepower decided to perform in both directions and never flickered again for the rest of the month....oh well. When built (I think in the 70's) Bollene was the deepest lock in the world with a drop of a staggering 26 metres. The cycle is a mere 7 minutes, dropping like an express lift, but all achieved without so much as a ripple on the surface. Impressive and genuinely awe inspiring. As with all the other Rhone locks encountered, we went through alone. That's a hell of a lot of water to shift for one 38 footer!
The mistral that had accompanied us since we left Viviers had steadily increased and was blowing a steady 7 with gusts to 8 and above. We were worried about losing the bimini as it flapped wildly and the vibrating strapping set up an uncanny wailing noise. We didn't dare try taking it down as once we started to undo it - that would be it. We were glad not to be at sea at this stage, although it was blowing downstream of course so no "wind over tide" effect. We were running with one engine only, at just above tickover, and making 10 knots over the ground. Nice. Getting into the next lock was a bit of fun though and I was glad the bowthruster had returned from its holiday. As we dropped down behind the lock walls I expected shelter to prevail, but no way, - we were buffeted around like a cork and glad to get back out into open water.
We made our way down to Avignon where we tied up just beyond the famous bridge (sur la pont, Avignon.......)
Avignon was superb and we spent several relaxing days visiting this historic city with it's Papal Palace and superb views over the Rhone Valley.
And then on to our last stopover in Arles, home of French bullfighting, held in the Roman amphitheatre. We didn't partake.
The next day dawned bright, hot, sunny and with a positively Meditteranean feel about it. Pretty good for the beginning of October. Highly appropriate for our last day under way, and our final approach to Port St.Louis, our final destination for this season.
The Rhone widened out again towards the sea and we could taste the salt in the air.
Actually it was the mountains of salt piled up by the shipload (literally) on the river banks. Salt production is a major industry here.
Passing through mostly uninspiring flat and industrialised surroundings we arrived at the very last lock. A small affair with a barely discernible change of level, making us wonder why they bothered.
And then at last we break out into the harbour at Port St Louis and out into salt water. It felt great to be at sea again! With 1,000 nautical miles and 172 locks behind us from leaving Cobb's Quay we felt a tremendous feeling of achievement and a true sense of "place" This is what it was all about! Magic!
All that remained now was the approach channel through the salt marshes into Port Napoleon. There were the Camargue's pink flamingoes and white horses over on the left and fishermen standing just outside the channel in knee deep water on our right with half a dozen rods apiece.
It was all just too much for one guy though, who was fast asleep in his chair 15 feet away!
We spent the last few days of the trip getting the boat lifted and bedded down for the winter. One disapointment was in store, however. We had chosen to leave the boat here despite the reports of rampant mosquitoes and unspiring surroundings for several reasons i.e. location, good rates out on the hard, and in particular - a huge English run chandlery and boat services operation. Sadly it was placed in receivership 3 months ago and no longer trading. We did manage to get ourselves sorted out though, with a very helpful French outfit, MMarine (Thanks Michele) and equally helpful AS Marine (Thanks Vim)
So returning home and doing some sums and reflecting on the journey, we had spent around £900 on diesel and £1017 on moorings. Most of the moorings costs were incurred when leaving the boat to return to the UK between legs, as we of course had to find proper marinas for security. When on board, the moorings were very cheap. Often free, and an average of say 7 euros a night. Just over another £1,000 for winter storage brought our moorings to about £2000 for the year. Compared to the nearly £5,000 we would have incurred back in Poole it was a major saving, and that doesn't take into account the money we would have spent on vistors moorings around the south coast back home!
So next April it's back again to continue towards Istanbul, after a winter of happy hours poring over pilots and charts. I can hardly wait.
So........ we returned to the boat in Challons sur Saone for a month onboard to slowly wend our way down to the Med. A very conveniently located Carrefours supermarche was a great opportuntity to load up with provisions, knowing from past experience on the canals that this can be a major problem. We were glad to be on the river sytem with the canals behind us. Don't get me wrong - we wouldn't have missed it for the world but eventually began to find the surroundings repetitive and a little claustrophobic. It wasn't all quite like Rick's Steins odyssey, with a gourmet restauraunt at every turn!
So after a few days enjoying Challon's excellent eateries and catching up with some fellow travellers from earlier in the trip we set off down the Saone. The more open scenery, clean waters and fresh air were wonderful.
As before, we were in no hurry and we stopped off at Tournus, Macon, and Trevoux and then on down to Lyon where we were to pick up some friends who were flying out to join us for a week. After various warnings from a variety of sources including this good forum, about boat theft/vandalism in the city we decided on an impromptu mooring at Ile Barbe on the outskirts. Despite the no mooring sign several others were tied up here, and for the same reason. A 3 euro busride took us into town where we met our friends and did the sights of Lyon. A fine city well worth the visit.
The next stage was down to the confluence of the Saone and the Rhone where the water changed colour to a pale green and the current picked up another 1 to 2 knots in our favour. The surrounding hills and wild scenery was only occasionally punctuated by industrial areas.
Locks were now few and far between and although big and deep, very user friendly with floating bollards. On entering the first one, is when of course I discover that my bowthruster, supposedly repaired back in Digoin on our last leg, decided to take a break. Somewhere in the line between joystick and propellor is a dodgy contact. I have made and remade them all several times only for the intermittent problem to re occur. It works fine to port but nothing to starboard. I was actually pleased when it broke down completely in Digoin and the local engineer for a boathire firm, who's whole fleet were fitted with the same sidepower unit said he knew them inside out. 15 mins of circuit testing identified a faulty joystick control which was duly replaced with immediate success. Great! and only 50 Euros for the job! But now 5 cruising days later, it's back again, damn it. No big problem, though, once tied up, relax with a cup of coffee and watch the world disappear.
After stops at Vienne, Condrieu, and Andance we chose the city of Valence, with it's nearby railway station to drop off our passengers who reluctantly make their way back to Lyon for their return flight.
After a couple of days enjoying the comforts of a proper marina with shorepower we set off downstream once again. Stopovers on the Rhone are few and far between but all were really great places to be. We fetched up that evening at a little place called Viviers, where we tied up next to an Italian couple on their way to the Genoa boat show to display their brand new Linnsen Grand Sturdy, on behalf of the boatbuilders.
We were finding private boats a very rare sight now, having passed only 2 sailboats that day, making their way up (presumably) from the Med to overwinter. Viviers was an unexpected delight with its labyrinth of narrow cobbled streets and monastery perched high over the town.
The architecture and ambience of this area was now taking on a definite "South of France" feel. The pantiled roofs of Viviers was a good example.
The next leg took us through more superb scenery with glimpses of the distant Alps then down to the massive Bollene lock. Inexplicably Mr Sidepower decided to perform in both directions and never flickered again for the rest of the month....oh well. When built (I think in the 70's) Bollene was the deepest lock in the world with a drop of a staggering 26 metres. The cycle is a mere 7 minutes, dropping like an express lift, but all achieved without so much as a ripple on the surface. Impressive and genuinely awe inspiring. As with all the other Rhone locks encountered, we went through alone. That's a hell of a lot of water to shift for one 38 footer!
The mistral that had accompanied us since we left Viviers had steadily increased and was blowing a steady 7 with gusts to 8 and above. We were worried about losing the bimini as it flapped wildly and the vibrating strapping set up an uncanny wailing noise. We didn't dare try taking it down as once we started to undo it - that would be it. We were glad not to be at sea at this stage, although it was blowing downstream of course so no "wind over tide" effect. We were running with one engine only, at just above tickover, and making 10 knots over the ground. Nice. Getting into the next lock was a bit of fun though and I was glad the bowthruster had returned from its holiday. As we dropped down behind the lock walls I expected shelter to prevail, but no way, - we were buffeted around like a cork and glad to get back out into open water.
We made our way down to Avignon where we tied up just beyond the famous bridge (sur la pont, Avignon.......)
Avignon was superb and we spent several relaxing days visiting this historic city with it's Papal Palace and superb views over the Rhone Valley.
And then on to our last stopover in Arles, home of French bullfighting, held in the Roman amphitheatre. We didn't partake.
The next day dawned bright, hot, sunny and with a positively Meditteranean feel about it. Pretty good for the beginning of October. Highly appropriate for our last day under way, and our final approach to Port St.Louis, our final destination for this season.
The Rhone widened out again towards the sea and we could taste the salt in the air.
Actually it was the mountains of salt piled up by the shipload (literally) on the river banks. Salt production is a major industry here.
Passing through mostly uninspiring flat and industrialised surroundings we arrived at the very last lock. A small affair with a barely discernible change of level, making us wonder why they bothered.
And then at last we break out into the harbour at Port St Louis and out into salt water. It felt great to be at sea again! With 1,000 nautical miles and 172 locks behind us from leaving Cobb's Quay we felt a tremendous feeling of achievement and a true sense of "place" This is what it was all about! Magic!
All that remained now was the approach channel through the salt marshes into Port Napoleon. There were the Camargue's pink flamingoes and white horses over on the left and fishermen standing just outside the channel in knee deep water on our right with half a dozen rods apiece.
It was all just too much for one guy though, who was fast asleep in his chair 15 feet away!
We spent the last few days of the trip getting the boat lifted and bedded down for the winter. One disapointment was in store, however. We had chosen to leave the boat here despite the reports of rampant mosquitoes and unspiring surroundings for several reasons i.e. location, good rates out on the hard, and in particular - a huge English run chandlery and boat services operation. Sadly it was placed in receivership 3 months ago and no longer trading. We did manage to get ourselves sorted out though, with a very helpful French outfit, MMarine (Thanks Michele) and equally helpful AS Marine (Thanks Vim)
So returning home and doing some sums and reflecting on the journey, we had spent around £900 on diesel and £1017 on moorings. Most of the moorings costs were incurred when leaving the boat to return to the UK between legs, as we of course had to find proper marinas for security. When on board, the moorings were very cheap. Often free, and an average of say 7 euros a night. Just over another £1,000 for winter storage brought our moorings to about £2000 for the year. Compared to the nearly £5,000 we would have incurred back in Poole it was a major saving, and that doesn't take into account the money we would have spent on vistors moorings around the south coast back home!
So next April it's back again to continue towards Istanbul, after a winter of happy hours poring over pilots and charts. I can hardly wait.
