Polishing topsides

[ghostlymoron]

My mate has a 240v polisher and has offered to lend it to me to polish the bit between antifouling and rails. (I believe that is known as the topsides). Question is what type of bonnet do I need and details of rubbing compounds/polishes.

 

[tcm]

You need to be prety careful - these are ideal for producing crazy glazy marks.

Main thing is to get the boat clean clean first. Cos that's how you skate in a few bits of sand etc and scratches.

Then, you use bonnet, something like a softcloth not fluffyand farecla G7. You'll have a right mess, quite normal, stuff splats all over, sometimes try putting on the bonnet or then try smearing it on the surface. It s only just easier than doing it by hand, and not really very much if at all easier if the polishing machine is heavy - best is a lightweight thing.

But anyway, wat you're doing is abrading down the surface vair vair finely. It wil be easier but a teeny bit less effective with a touch of water here and there. If there actualy pre-existing scratches on the surface, you can get these out first, using coarsish wet and dry (with water) say 320 or 400 depends, experiment a bit, and then down to 600 grade, and either then or at 1000 grade you an use G7 to get the high shine.

For not-huge boats it's not a total pain to do it by hand, use several rag to apply and rub, and then wipe smooth.

Need to wash any residual stuff, and that's it. Ok, you can put wax on it, another total flippin pain. Cheaper than joining a gym tho...

 

[AIDY]

I find a foam padded sponge works best.... I always use the pink one /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[vyv_cox]

For heavier polishers tie it using bungy to a masthead halyard. Adjust the length so it hangs about the top of the topsides. It's a lot easier to pull it down than it is to hold it up, especially with a large boat. It's well worth setting up trestles and planks, rather than trying to do it off a stepladder or an oil drum. (I fell off a small drum when doing this last year and my shin is now scarred for life!)

 

[paulrae]

Don't bother with one of the little 240V 'car' polishers if you're trying to use Farecla or the like. I bought a heavy duty one (looks a bit like a grinder) on Ebay - and it works very well.

If you search on Farecla on Youtube you'll find a video showing you exactly what to do.

Good luck

 

[Richard10002]

[ QUOTE ]
the bit between antifouling and rails. (I believe that is known as the topsides).

[/ QUOTE ]

I understand it's called shipsides, and the top of the hull/deck from toerail to toerail and pushpit to pulpit is called topsides - at least thats how it is quoted for polishing boats here in Malta.

 

[Plomong]

Sorry to be such a spoilsport, Richard, but the topside is the part between the waterline and the toe rail. "Topside" is a noun.

To be topsides is to be out on deck, i.e. not down below. Note in this case "topsides" is an adverb. All, of course, in the context of mono and multi-hull pleasure craft.

To extend the above definition of the noun "topside" to ships we would need to redefine the upper limit of the area by referring to the main deck.

Plomong

 

[ghostlymoron]

Plomong I stand corrected! but will check Fowler this evening.

 

[johnpye]

[ QUOTE ]
My mate has a 240v polisher and has offered to lend it to me to polish the bit between antifouling and rails. (I believe that is known as the topsides). Question is what type of bonnet do I need and details of rubbing compounds/polishes.

[/ QUOTE ]

This depends on the condition of the topsides (or shipsides or anything else you are polishing.) If it is scratched, you need heavier treatment than if you are just restoring a shine. The principle is always to use the minimum abrasion to do the job.

To get rid of scratches, use a cutting compound and a rotary polishing machine. As TCM says, be careful, or you'll get swirl marks. Keep the speed low - 1000rpm max and don't let the surface overheat. If the machine you are offered doesn't go this slow, be very, very careful.

If there are no scratches, or when you have got rid of them with compound, move on to a fine polish or prewax - something like our colour and shine restorer. You can do this with the rotary machine, but for this level of polish, an orbital boat polisher is ideal as it won't scorch the surface or leave swirl marks.

Finally, apply a good wax or glaze and buff up to a brilliant shine. If you skip this or use a cheap car polish, the surface will be dull again in a couple of weeks.

Bonnets for machines - use a smoothish one for the compound and prewax. Use a lambswool or similar to buff up the wax.

Better still for a rotary machine, use foam pads, which are available in different densities to suit each stage. The compound or polish goes directly on the pad, which you can then use to apply and buff in one operation.

This may sound like a lot of work, but I did all these stages on my 21 ft boat last week in two three-hour sessions.

There is loads more information on our website, with comparison of machines, advice on waxes etc.