Polishing Stainless

the usual thing is a callico or cotton polishing mop* used on an arbor in a 2600rpm electric drill - (cordless are too slow & angle grinders too fast) and either jewellers rouge - not often used these days or polishing compound/ rubbing compound. You might need to give any new welds a bit of extra attention but as these are likely to be made by T.I.G. welding, oxidation is not likely to be severe.

I do our hob this way every year and it's the way stainless steel fabricators do it. Comes up with a mirror finish.

Here is Phil Thomas in Nidri, Greece putting the finishing touches to our gantry which he installed for us in 2004
IMG_0114.jpg
He's just removing the residue after polishing with the drill which is nearly out of shot bottom centre.

Steve Cronin

* you will see these in DIY stores and they look like several layers of white cloth discs sewn together - because that's exactly what they are. Most DIY outlets only sell the 3" ones which don't last too long. Try a welding supplies or BOC cylinder shop to get the bigger "professional" ones.
 
I am making all of the stainless steel fittings for my new L50.

Stainless tube can be purchased polished to 400 grit.

round bar is normally solid drawn and the finish usally only need pickling if welded as Oldsaltoz indicated then polishing with a mop on a drill with polishing soap.

Flat bar or flat plate needs the surface cleaning off and I use a small angle grinder with 120 grit sanding pad with rubber backing.

I then use flap wheels starting with 120 grit followed with 240 grit and then 320 grit followed by polishing mop and polishing soap. Dont know suppliers in UK.
Not a nice job.

Pls use face mask to protect eyes and lungs from the dust and muck

Hope this helps
 
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