Ply Deck Panels

dave36

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I have been offered Some 8*4 sheets of hardwood faced WPB ply at a very reasonable price for my 12' Marina speedboat rebuild, only question being - Is WPB ply suitable for speedboat decks? Hopefully will never be immersed! Links to suitable instructional pages most welcome.
 

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If the deck(and the rest of the boat) is GRP, the ply can't do much harm, except that when the next owner decides to remove it, he will be faced with a large mass of osmotic blisters. If the deck is wood anyway, you would be better renovating the existing arrangemnt. You can never totally seal a ply covering. Why do you want to do this?
Cheers,Dave.
 

dave36

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The boat was built around 1955 and had a 1/4" ply deck then, painted. The hull is Grp with crossmembers which serve as seat frames. No servicable timber has survived. I have enough pieces to replicate the factory build, which is what I have now almost completed. Remaining work is fitting the newly completed deck stringer assembly, obtaining and fitting deck (not sure here, only surviving deck piece is sandwiched between a cleat and an old stringer remnant) then I will have to turn the boat over, wet n dry the hull, prime and two pack paint
 

BarryH

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WPB isn't the best to use, but with care can last a long time. If youve got use of a router, you can replicate the original planked effect. Rout out the plank joins and then inlay with a light hardwood. Ramin would be a good choice, readily available in various sizes.

Sealing the finished work is best done with a 2 pack finish. Take care to seal all the open end grain and all the areas that you don't see! I've used this method for giving a teak deck "effect" in the cockpit of my boat. Its lasted for 5 years and all it had is one rub down and refinish. Saved bundles over the sheets rady done.

Give it a go, what you got to loose!

Wha'dya mean "I'm always playing with this engine" its the only way to get it to run!
 

andrewbarker

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I think ply, unlike hardwood like mahogany, is actually better now than it used to be. Nothing to lose. Couple of suggestions: Do use bronze screws rather than brass. Something like West System epoxy for bonding. Also on paint - there's loads of expensive stuff around but I use Holts Factory Floor paint for ply decks. It's designed to withstand machinery, acids, hob nailed boots & is rubberised.

Good luck & get on the water soon
 

jfm

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If you mean deck as in level with the gunwhale, elbow height when you're sitting in the boat, use marine ply not wbp. There is risk of delamination of wbp if it gets wet, and that would be a shame following massive effot of changing deck and varnishing.

But if you mean deck as in floor that you walk on, to be covered in carpet or deck paint, use wbp. will be fine. Just cut to shape, huge chamfers at edges and glass it in.

On a boat that size you need to use the right thickness, too thick and it will be heavy and slow you down
 

dave36

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Deck is level with elbows, but don't plan on shooting any whales just yet.
I checked out the Timber with Robins of Bristol (the origional suppliers), they were able to identify the sheets as Marine ply in all but name. The timber could in fact be used for hulls.
So cash in hand and at the wheel of my Pals truck I have purchased enough timber to complete topping out and plenty for experimenting and technical errors! Wish me luck.
 

Robin2

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As I understand it WBP ply and Marine ply use the same adhesives between the laminations. However marine ply is guaranteed not to have any missing pieces in the interior laminates (which you can't normally see until you cut the sheets). This difference only matters for structural purposes.

I strongly favour epoxy coating (West System ?) any wood that will be outdoors - especially the cut ends.
 
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