plugging holes left by instruments

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jim99

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I am in the process of removing (and not replacing) two dead, flush-mounted instruments next to my companionway. Not really sure how to fill the GRP cabin holes. Any suggestions, articles that could help or links to websites would be appreciated.

Plan to repaint my topsides when the work is done if that affects what you would suggest.

Thanks, cheers
 
Know someone who made a new instrument panel to cover the whole area from smoked perspex. covered up the holes nicely and looked smart.
 
Same method as filling unwanted seacock holes but with fewer layers of glass and a bit more filler. If you're repainting afterwards then don't bother with gelcoat.
 
my darling husband is always cutting holes in our boat...I keep the cut out plugs..they come in useful if we have to do a repair job!!!

If your instrument has a nice plastic cover, use that as a mould and make up a glass plug first then offer it into the hole and tidy up....not as messy as trying to fill a fairly large hole with glass.
 
Our ex-instrument holes are covered with a bit of teak. Always good as a talking point when someone new comes on to the boat and asks why there is a bit of teak just there.
 
Yes, there are already a few pieces of teak covering former shifters and such, a couple that I'm not sure what they were, and I have thought if I can find a good solution for filling the dead depth and speed gauges, I will also pull the teak bits and plug the holes before I repaint her. My cockpit will look like new.

Have considered Twisterkai's suggestion, but seacock holes, in comparison, are much easier to fill, at least neatly, as the holes are much smaller, the glass much thicker, easier to layer. But I will remove the gauges and give it some more thought.

Thanks for the suggestions.
 
IF you can get behind it without destroying lining ...

Piece of ply with grease-proof paper or other glue resistant property .... tack glue it to back of hole.
Chopped strand filled polyester resin to spoon into the hole - doing it in stages so that you don't get it trying to 'flow' out .... a plug made of any material with also a grease-proof paper or similar covering to press into the hole to keep filling in place .... taped for the 20 - 40 mins needed till it is set enough. Remove and repeat putting another layer in .... leaving enough 'depth' to allow micro-balloons and resin mix to be added as top layer slightly proud of the hole .... this to be then sanded back to flush and smooth - ready for painting .....
 
How about fitting a ventilator in the position. never have too much ventilation.

I find the holes left by violins and cellos the most difficult to deal with.
 
Nigel, I think that's the ticket. Thanks for that. Sounds like you've done this before. Will send you a PM if I have any questions that I think you might be able to answer. cheers.

LakeSailor, it's true that you never have enough ventilation, especially in this climate. Good idea normally, but it just wouldn't work in that location given what's on the inside. Maybe for a couple of the other teak bits, though.
 
Done it before ?? You could say that !!

Trick is to get enough strength into it with the chopped strand mat stuff .... and then filler which can be sanded ...

If you have access behind .... chamferring the edges of the hole so that filling can spread behind to lock it in place is even better .... same on front before filler .... then the GRP filling should stay in place life of boat !!

Good luck and let us know what happens - if you need any words from me etc. - PM and I'll try and help ...
 
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