srah1953
Well-Known Member
I've read that modern racing boats and multihulls use blocks on the leech end of reefing lines. Would anybody have a photo of one they could post so that I could see the type of block that is used?
Photo of leech reefing line block sought
- Thread starter srah1953
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saltylegs
Well-Known Member
try this it is a clew block from Antal I think there are others in the range
http://www.marineware.com/pdf/antal/MW_Antal_4_4_ClewBlocks.pdf
also i think Shaeffer may have done something similar
if thats no good try some of the sailmakers that specialise in multihulls
http://www.marineware.com/pdf/antal/MW_Antal_4_4_ClewBlocks.pdf
also i think Shaeffer may have done something similar
if thats no good try some of the sailmakers that specialise in multihulls
dt4134
Well-Known Member
As well as the clew blocks Antal do blocks that stitch/bolt onto the leech for reefing lines. I think they are the recognised specialist.
I've leech blocks on my mainsail reefing points but they're just shackled onto the cringle. It's an inferior solution which I inherited with the boat that I'll probably try to sort out this summer.
I've leech blocks on my mainsail reefing points but they're just shackled onto the cringle. It's an inferior solution which I inherited with the boat that I'll probably try to sort out this summer.
saltylegs
Well-Known Member
here you go got the right site this time for reefing blocks
http://www.marineware.com/pdf/antal/MW_Antal_4_5_ReefBlocks.pdf
http://www.marineware.com/pdf/antal/MW_Antal_4_5_ReefBlocks.pdf
William_H
Well-Known Member
Reefing
On a smaller boat the reefing line at the leach is usually taken up through the cringle (eyelet) and back to the boom. This gives a pulley effect and a 2 purchase effect. However the edge of the cringle can be quite small if not sharp and the friction is therefor large as you pull the sail down or the boom up. Further once the reef is in and you are sailing the small area of the cringle inner edge takes all the load of the sail and main sheet so chafe can be a real problem on polyester ropes. A pulley will reduce the friction and increse the load area on the rope. So on a large mainsail is quite important. But I guess you knew all that.
I get away without a pu;lley on 21fter with large mainsail and frequent reefing but a pulley would be better.
good luck olewill
On a smaller boat the reefing line at the leach is usually taken up through the cringle (eyelet) and back to the boom. This gives a pulley effect and a 2 purchase effect. However the edge of the cringle can be quite small if not sharp and the friction is therefor large as you pull the sail down or the boom up. Further once the reef is in and you are sailing the small area of the cringle inner edge takes all the load of the sail and main sheet so chafe can be a real problem on polyester ropes. A pulley will reduce the friction and increse the load area on the rope. So on a large mainsail is quite important. But I guess you knew all that.
I get away without a pu;lley on 21fter with large mainsail and frequent reefing but a pulley would be better.
good luck olewill
Twister_Ken
Well-Known Member
The smallest Antal reefing block listed is suitable for boats up to 60 feet, so maybe overkill?
dt4134
Well-Known Member
Better to be overspec'd than under spec'd.
The OP also needs to make sure the sailmaker attaches the block very strongly to the sail. I lost a reef last year when the webbing tore free, it was pretty inconvenient at the time.
The OP also needs to make sure the sailmaker attaches the block very strongly to the sail. I lost a reef last year when the webbing tore free, it was pretty inconvenient at the time.
srah1953
Well-Known Member
Hi all. Thanks for all the comments on this and, in particular, the image sought. I had thought this post might have disappeared into the void without trace. There was a picture recently in a french sailing magazine of a ring attached to the side of a leech by way of three straps sewed onto the sail. Any common or garden block could be attached to this and would obviously be much cheaper, while probably inferior, than the custom Antal design shown.
I find reefing always a slow and difficult process whereas I feel that, ideally, reefing should be like changing gear in a car.
Thanks again
I find reefing always a slow and difficult process whereas I feel that, ideally, reefing should be like changing gear in a car.
Thanks again
Ex-SolentBoy
Well-Known Member
This is where I chip in with my really useless comment about how reefing is like changing gear - if you have inmast furling!
LadyInBed
Well-Known Member
Agree, and I wouldn't want three chunks of metal on the back of my main that could flog around.
Norman_E
Well-Known Member
I posted a photo showing one of the luff blocks (the leech blocks are the same) on my boat not an hour ago. See this thread http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?t=231133
The blocks are a standard small plain bearing Barton block designed for 12mm rope. the fixed eye type from this page http://www.bartonmarine.com/ I ground the riveted end of the stud that holds the stainless loop into the block, unscrewed the original stud and replaced it with a 6mm stainless bolt and nyloc nut.
EDIT On my new mainsail the sail is protected from chafe by leather patches.
The blocks are a standard small plain bearing Barton block designed for 12mm rope. the fixed eye type from this page http://www.bartonmarine.com/ I ground the riveted end of the stud that holds the stainless loop into the block, unscrewed the original stud and replaced it with a 6mm stainless bolt and nyloc nut.
EDIT On my new mainsail the sail is protected from chafe by leather patches.
MoodySabre
Well-Known Member
I'm having a brain-dead moment here as I can't remember the name of the French company that make sailing hardware - begins with G
Anyway I think it is them that produce reefing blocks that sit inside the cringles to greatly reduce the friction of leech reefing lines.
Anyway I think it is them that produce reefing blocks that sit inside the cringles to greatly reduce the friction of leech reefing lines.
Twister_Ken
Well-Known Member
Goiot?
MoodySabre
Well-Known Member
thanks Ken
Norman_E
Well-Known Member
That Harken system is for small boats only. It would have far too much friction on a 45 footer, not least because it does not have the double purchase given by having a pair of blocks inside the boom. As for loose blocks "flapping about" that is simply not a problem if your sail maker protects the sail properly with leather patches on the correct side, beneath the cringles. The patches are sewn on at the top only and simply hang behind the blocks.
Those Goiot things look a good idea, but other Goiot gear I have seen is not the best. The Goiot traveller on my boat is the worst bit of hardware on it. I do wonder if the very small roller for the rope is really very useful, and whether it is at the correct angle.
Those Goiot things look a good idea, but other Goiot gear I have seen is not the best. The Goiot traveller on my boat is the worst bit of hardware on it. I do wonder if the very small roller for the rope is really very useful, and whether it is at the correct angle.
vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
The smallest of the Antal ones, as Ken says, is for boats up to 60 ft. It is 7 inches long!
LadyInBed
Well-Known Member
I wouldn't want three chunks of metal on the back of my 60 ft boat main that could flog around.
Stu Jackson
Well-Known Member
I just posted this on the single or double line reefing topic: http://www.catalina380.org/article_display.asp?ID=114
After reading this topic again, can't understand if you're after a reefing solution or just a block at the aft end of your (sail's) foot.
After reading this topic again, can't understand if you're after a reefing solution or just a block at the aft end of your (sail's) foot.
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srah1953
Well-Known Member
My original request was to see a block attached to reef cringle which I'd read about and which I hoped could improve my single line reefing system on 35 footer (main 379 sq ft).