Perspex Windows Help?

[Guest]

Thanks for previous advice but still in trouble.Has anyone got direct experience of inserting perspex into rubber seals on a boat? We tried again but this time the string cut the rubber surround in a few places although it did turn the "lip" of the seal eventually so we have a couple of windows in place with torn seal. Surely this shouldnt be this difficult a job.Some one suggested that we should be fitting the window from the inside..any info gratefully received.

 

[Guest]

I dont use string, I always use a piece of car electrical cable and 'Fairy', nice and slippy and smooth. good luck

 

[Guest]

I did this when I built the boat (1977) and have just fitted new windows. It is one of those jobs which is difficult to do single handed but b****y near impossible if the wife helps.

I assume you have the correct rubber for the thickness of the perspex and the thickness of the panel into which it is to be fitted, and that you have bought the glazing tool which is essential for fitting the filler strip. Also if the windows are more than a little curved they should have been preformed. There should be the thickness of the central web plus 1/16" clearance all round.

Working fom the outside fit the rubber around the edge of the opening, starting top centre do not strech it and make sure it is forced into the corners. If the rubber you are using has one slot open and the other almost closed then the closed slot goes on the boat. Check that the rubber really is pushed well into the corners and cut off leaving 3/8" surplus. Push the cut ends together and into place. The ends must be cut squarely and cleanly, a little dab of sealant on the ends does not go amiss.

Force the bottom edge of the window into rubber as far as possible and try to get one corner into about the right place. Work round the window with the handle of a teaspoon or the glazing tool progessively lifting the edge of the rubber onto the edge of the perspex and then over it, finally push the window into position. A little washing up liquid can help but I wonder if it may make leaks more likely.

Now using the glazing tool (They only cost £5 from the people who supply the rubber, but if you are as mean as me you can make one with a file handle, a piece of wire coat hanger and a dab of araldite) Fit the filler strip starting centre bottom. It helps if this is warm so pick a nice warm day. Work steadily round the window, avoid streching the strip, take care round the corners (I assume the corner radius is not less than the minimum specified for the rubber, mine are about half and that makes things a bit difficult) Little bits that don't go in properly can be pushed into place later with the tool or the teaspoon but if more than little bits don't go in its best to start again. As with rubber cut off with a little surplus ant foce the ends into place.

I hope this helps. Its a job which is difficult (easy to the professional who could have done several boats in the time it has taken me to type this) but gets easier as you get the knack. I have known people give up, buy larger windows and bolt them on. Alternatively Salford House Services in Sevenoaks will make you smart aluminium frames, at a price of course.

Finally write the whole thing up as an article for PBO>

 

[Guest]

You can get windows re-sealed or re-fitted for about fifteen quid each by going to a car windscreen company. Saves all the aggro don't it? I have had it done myself and I am an avid DIY man. It's not worth the trouble and the seal is guaranteed.