niccapotamus
Well-Known Member
I've found this advice on google - has anyone got any thoughts. My initial thought is the fact that I should be cautious of the chafe caused by plastic tubing.
2. While some use only one, I would favour two lines from each pile. An enormous galvanised shackle to the pile ring, well moused. Best attached at low water springs from a stable dinghy. If you use cable ties to mouse, do not cut off the ends as they are very sharp and will get you when next you handle the shackle!
3. Large diameter three strand line with hard eyes (galvanised or nylon) to the shackle. I base the diameter of the line on thinking of 50% chafe rather than initial tensile strength. If you want stretch, use a rubber insert, as these large diameter lines stretch very little. Some people use an half metre or so of chain from the ring to the line but I have seen such chain snap under strain.
4. Length of plastic tubing (twice as long as you think you need) positioned with constrictor-knotted burgee cord (or if you must, cable ties) on each line to go through fairleads.
5. Large soft eye on the end of each line. Even if you use cleats, include the eye, reasons below.
6.When measuring for the lines, remember that you will want to moor facing upstream and downstream, according to the tide.
7. Pick-up line of smaller diameter, remembering that your boat will hang off it some day, say 12mm or so, with soft eye either end and pickup buoy at its centre. This is shackled (stainless best here as galvanised siezes) to one forward and one aft mooring line and the other mooring line is tied to its partner. Useful if buoy has flexible pick-up stick that you can reach from your decks.
8. Pick up the line, draw in heavy pile lines forward and aft, drop loops over samson posts/cleats, then untie partner line and lead 2nd mooring line through other fairlead and secure.
9. If you share the mooring, you need breast lines and springs to your companion boat. These you would carry anyway.
10. Check at LWS every 6 months and sleep soundly through gales!
2. While some use only one, I would favour two lines from each pile. An enormous galvanised shackle to the pile ring, well moused. Best attached at low water springs from a stable dinghy. If you use cable ties to mouse, do not cut off the ends as they are very sharp and will get you when next you handle the shackle!
3. Large diameter three strand line with hard eyes (galvanised or nylon) to the shackle. I base the diameter of the line on thinking of 50% chafe rather than initial tensile strength. If you want stretch, use a rubber insert, as these large diameter lines stretch very little. Some people use an half metre or so of chain from the ring to the line but I have seen such chain snap under strain.
4. Length of plastic tubing (twice as long as you think you need) positioned with constrictor-knotted burgee cord (or if you must, cable ties) on each line to go through fairleads.
5. Large soft eye on the end of each line. Even if you use cleats, include the eye, reasons below.
6.When measuring for the lines, remember that you will want to moor facing upstream and downstream, according to the tide.
7. Pick-up line of smaller diameter, remembering that your boat will hang off it some day, say 12mm or so, with soft eye either end and pickup buoy at its centre. This is shackled (stainless best here as galvanised siezes) to one forward and one aft mooring line and the other mooring line is tied to its partner. Useful if buoy has flexible pick-up stick that you can reach from your decks.
8. Pick up the line, draw in heavy pile lines forward and aft, drop loops over samson posts/cleats, then untie partner line and lead 2nd mooring line through other fairlead and secure.
9. If you share the mooring, you need breast lines and springs to your companion boat. These you would carry anyway.
10. Check at LWS every 6 months and sleep soundly through gales!