Penetrating wood sealant?

[KevO]

I am renovating the teak tops on my cockpit lockers. They consist of teak strips laid on a ply base. I have managed to remove them from the lockers and they will be routed out,primed and recaulked. I note that the ply bases have suffered a little from being wet underneath and are a touch soft in a few small areas. I think they were caught in time and will be salvageable. I intend to let them dry out thoroughly then give them a coat or 3 of something that can soak in and stabilise the timber where required and act to seal the surface too. It's only the underside so looks are not a factor.

Suitable product suggestions would be much appreciated.

 

[rob2]

I thin this will do what you are asking:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/ronseal-wet-rot-wood-hardener-500ml/63540
Ronseal Wet Rot Wood Hardener. Used to give a workable base and edges to the ply, then epoxy over it to prevent further ingress of water.

Rob.

 

[KevO]

Ok, that sounds like it'll do the job of stabilising it... What kind of epoxy coating would be best? Just mixed with hardener and painted on like varnish?

 

[Hoolie]

Ok, that sounds like it'll do the job of stabilising it... What kind of epoxy coating would be best? Just mixed with hardener and painted on like varnish?

I wouldn't bother. The wood hardener is waterproof in it's own right. It's like the dope used on fabric-panelled and model aircraft.
A word of advice if your wood is very soft, it's very absorbent. Last time I used it, it took 3 weeks to dry. When the dope smell has gone - it's dry!

 

[KevO]

Thanks guys... I appreciate your help.

 

[ripvan1]

Would the above be ok for sealing end grain on new ply?

 

[chrishelen]

Hope it works,My cockpit seats are on the way out, the teak is ok but the ply is sodden, i have replaced the ply on three seats but it is a bit of a pita. i would be interested to see if it works.

 

[Hoolie]

Would the above be ok for sealing end grain on new ply?

It probably would be, though I've never tried that. It is EXTREMELY thin and runny and very easily absorbed. When dry it is very hard and durable.
I've used similar stuff on an old hardwood staircase that was really soft and the treated stairs are as hard as the originals.

 

[lw395]

I would use epoxy, applied by brush, using a hot air gun to warm it so that it penetrates as much as possible.
But epoxy does not like UV and should be covered with a good varnish.
If you epoxy, you need to do the whole thing as it will colour the wood a bit.
Alternatively, International's 1 pack polyurethane varnish seems good, a couple of dilute coats to seal, then several coats to finish. Seems pretty tough, I used it on the floor of a racing dinghy.

 

[Hoolie]

I think the OP was going to treat the underside of the teak tops on his lockers. If it's been treated with wood hardener forget about "epoxy penetration". It's totally impermeable when dry.

 

[KevO]

Yes, Hoolie is right. I just wanna treat the underside of the ply that forms the base of the teak panels that grace my cockpit lockers.