Part 2 - Result of series / parallel experiment with 4 solar panels + MPPT controller

RichardS

N/A
Joined
5 Nov 2009
Messages
29,212
Location
Home UK Midlands / Boat Croatia
Visit site
This is the second installment of thread http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthrea...ments-with-4-solar-panels-and-MPPT-controller

The setup was the same but this time with an 7A LED array as a load on the car battery:

IMG_5206.JPG


The other big difference is that this time the tests were done in sunlight starting at 1:00pm. At this time of the year the trees around my garden cast long shadows so I set everything up and waited for the shade of the first tree shadow to move out of the way. I knew I would have about an hour before shadow of the next tree came across. The photo was taken with the righthand two panels in sun and the two lefthand still in shade. It was interesting to watch the meter as the sun moved across .... in full shade the voltage was still around 40V and this only increased to 44V when all the panels were in sun. However, the current steadily increased from around 1A in full shade to 4A when all were in sun.

Perhaps this excellent voltage performance is why MPPT controllers are highly regarded and why Victron recommend using a high a voltage as possible within the controllers capability?

Anyway, for those who are interested, the tests were exactly the same as last time but this time starting with a Parallel/Parallel - Series - Parallel/Parallel configuration and then the S/S-P-S/S configuration used last time.

Once again the pieces of cardboard were used to cover 8 cells at a time and for each shading condition I used every possible permutation of the outermost 8 cells of every panel and averaged the results. once again, the results were highly consistent with a maximum variation of only 0.2V between each set of readings, although the currents were much higher this time, of course. I've not used Vic's method for the tables as I have copied and pasted all this from a text document, so apologies for all the dots.


Once again, the first two set of results were taken with the panels on open circuit connected directly into the multimeter i.e. no regulator or battery in circuit.


PARALLEL (LEFT TWO PANELS) - SERIES - PARALLEL (RIGHT TWO PANELS)

.................................................................VOLTAGE......CURRENT


NO CELLS COVERED...................................44.1V...........3.9A

8 CELLS COVERED ON ANY PANEL............43.7V...........3.9A

8 + 8 COVERED ON PARALLEL PANELS......40.7V...........3.9A

8 + 8 COVERED ON SERIES PANELS...........43.3V...........2.0A


SERIES (LEFT TWO PANELS) - PARALLEL - SERIES (RIGHT TWO PANELS)

...................................................................VOLTAGE......CURRENT


NO CELLS COVERED....................................44.0V...........3.8A

8 CELLS COVERED ON ANY PANEL.............43.5V...........3.8A

8 + 8 COVERED ON SERIES PANELS...........43.3V...........2.0A

8 + 8 COVERED ON PARALLEL PANELS......40.5V...........3.8A


For the second set of readings I connected the MPPT controller to the solar panel array, both with and without the LED connected across the battery. I ensured that the battery was fully charged before starting but the problem with using a battery is that because of the 7A load the battery quickly starts to discharge and then the controller drops from Float into Bulk and the readings change. What is needed is a load which does not influence the controller but if the controller doesn't see a load which behaves like a battery it just hunts around as happened last time. I don't know the answer to this.

PARALLEL (LEFT TWO PANELS) - SERIES - PARALLEL (RIGHT TWO PANELS)

NO LOAD ON BATTERY......................14.4V...........0.7A ON FLOAT / 2.0A ON BULK

LED LOAD ON BATTERY.....................13.0V...........7.2A ON BULK


SERIES (LEFT TWO PANELS) - PARALLEL - SERIES (RIGHT TWO PANELS)

NO LOAD ON BATTERY......................14.4V...........0.6A ON FLOAT (CONTROLLER DID NOT SWITCH TO BULK)

LED LOAD ON BATTERY.....................13.1V...........7.7A ON BULK


Firstly, I'm inclined to dispense with the controller results. A battery is simply not a stable load so although the controller will hold a stable voltage depending upon which "cycle" it's on, the current varies depending upon what it senses from the battery. For what it's worth, the results from either panel configuration are similar. I've no idea what the four 100W panels would deliver into a more demanding load but at 7.7A I'm near the limit of my meter anyway.

The open panel results are interesting and confirm my conclusion from the last time i.e. using the S/S-P-S/S configuration for my boat would be a mistake.

It doesn't matter how you connect the panels, the same results apply:

Covering 8 cells out of 36 (5.5% total shading) has virtually no effect on the voltage and zero effect on the current.

Covering 8 cells on each of two panels that are in parallel with each other (11% total shading) has, surprisingly, zero effect on current but produces a 10% reduction in voltage.

Covering 8 cells on each of two panels that are in series with each other (11% total shading) has a huge 50% reduction on current and produces a small 2% reduction in voltage.

On my boat the two panels on the same side of the boom will be in the boom's shadow at the same time so it seems obvious that those two panels should be connected in parallel with these pairs then in series to boost the voltage. This assumes that the controller can use volts and amps as rough equivalents to generate a maximum current at 14.4V since, on that basis, choosing between a configuration which produces a 50% reduction in current at constant voltage or one which produces a 10% reduction in voltage at constant current seems like a no-brainer.

Thanks to those who commented last time and, of course, I would be interested in opinions this time as well. :)

Richard
 
Panels and controller are now installed although I need to tidy up the wiring a bit.

IMG_5447.JPG


The shore power main charger was showing a float charge of 13.5 volts with basically just the fridge/freezer on around 4:00pm this afternoon so the sun already getting quite low.

I turned off the mains charger and connected up the solar panels to the MPPT controller with the 2 panels on each side of the boom in parallel and the parallel pairs in series. At that point the mains charger was showing 13.5V and after the switchover the Victron went from Bulk to Absorbtion to Float at 13.6V in a few minutes.

I decided I needed to test the panels a little more so I turned on all the instruments, the inverter and the 6 cabin fans on full power. I reckon this, with the fridge, adds up to around 15A. The controller remained on Float at 13.6V for around 30 minutes with this large load until it dropped down to 13V and switched into Bulk. When I turned off everything but the fridge the controller went back to Float within a few minutes.

Of course, the sun was getting lower and the shadow of the boom was soon over 2 of the panels so this high output started to fade and by 5:00pm the controller had switched to Bulk i.e maximum output, with just the fridge/freezer on, so I switch the mains back on.

Without the dongle or cable it's all a bit speculative but I reckon that the output of the 4 x 100W panels in the evening Sun is enough to power all the boat electrics. This will hopefully means that any loses during the night will be fully recovered during the day but time will tell. :)

Richard
 
Last edited:
Interesting Richard, thanks for taking the time to share it all :encouragement:

Thanks Paul ... today's update for those who are interested below. Can I ask you whether the Victron dongle can actually turn off the controller? Reading the manual last night, it seems that the cable can. I'd be interested in a shutdown option when I'm experimenting rather than pulling cables.

Anyway, I got up at 9:00 this morning and there was/is a clear Med sky although both the port panels were still in 1/2 shade from the boom. I checked the Victron lights and it was on Absorption at 14.4V which was expected as the mains charger was also on all night so the controller wakes up and detects a charged battery. I immediately shut down the mains charger.

What surprised me is that the controller doesn't even start up until the panel voltage is battery voltage + 5V. Below that level the blue light just flashes to show that it's not producing any output. This means that in mid-May, at 9:00 am, with 25% of the panel area in shadow and the panels fixed horizontal rather than aligned, the voltage is already high enough to start the controller. Amazing!

Anyway, consulting the manual tells me that the absorbtion phase following the +5V power-up should last 1 hour before the controller enters float mode, assuming that the drain on the batteries is less than the controller output.

I kept an eye on my panel voltmeter and sure, enough, at 9.45 the voltage suddenly dropped from 14.4V to 13.8V and the Float light came on. This means that the controller switched on at 8.45 so I missed the event by 15 minutes. :o

After almost 40 minutes on Float the voltage is still rock solid at 13.8V and, of course, the sun is getting higher and the boom shadow is retreating. This effectively means that from around 9:00 in the morning in mid-May on a sunny Med day, my panels will provide all the anchored power requirements for the boat (essentially the large fridge/freezer) and still have some to spare to start re-charging after the previous nights draw-down.

I must say that this performance exceeds my expectations and probably means that my lovely Honda EU2.0i which I bought new in 2014 and has been run for 40 hours at most is probably going to become surplus to requirements. I will see what the panels are like in July/August under real conditions with 4 on board.

Richard
 
Last edited:
Thanks Paul ... today's update for those who are interested below. Can I ask you whether the Victron dongle can actually turn off the controller? Reading the manual last night, it seems that the cable can. I'd be interested in a shutdown option when I'm experimenting rather than pulling cables.

Just had a look Richard and there is no "OFF" setting. However, setting max output amps to "0" stops output.

I've observed most of what you've written myself and was also surprised at how soon the panels start charging. I think the reason for this is the voltage rises with minimal sunlight, although there will be very little amperage output, to start with.

I'm sure you realise that having the mains charger on overnight isn't a good idea, as it doesn't give the panels much to do in the day, other than keep up with consumption. If the panel output exceeds your consumption they will keep up with usage and replace what you used during the night.

I have also fitted a Victron battery monitor that has an inbuilt relay that can be configured to close at a set voltage and/or battery state of charge. I have connected this to a relay in the consumer unit that has a 12v switching coil and 240v contacts, so it switches the mains charger on if the voltage starts to get low, when i'm in the marina. It also has an alarm that could be set to alert you of low voltage so you could start the generator.
 
..

Anyway, I got up at 9:00 this morning and there was/is a clear Med sky although both the port panels were still in 1/2 shade from the boom. I checked the Victron lights and it was on Absorption at 14.4V which was expected as the mains charger was also on all night so the controller wakes up and detects a charged battery. ....
Richard
If the mains charger has been on all night, and the battery is fully charged, should it not go to float?
 
...
What surprised me is that the controller doesn't even start up until the panel voltage is battery voltage + 5V. Below that level the blue light just flashes to show that it's not producing any output. This means that in mid-May, at 9:00 am, with 25% of the panel area in shadow and the panels fixed horizontal rather than aligned, the voltage is already high enough to start the controller. Amazing!.....

Richard

This is what you should expect. With almost any level of light, the panel should produce an open circuit voltage around or above Vpp. It's the current or power that is proportional to the number of photons hitting the panels.

13.8 is on the high side for 'float' for many batteries.
But if you don't have the mains charger on, it's not what everyone would call true 'float' as the solar charger will rest the batteries at night.
That'll be why Victron design these chargers like that!
Years ago I ruined a battery by leaving it at 13.8V 24/7 for a whole winter.
The exact voltage recommended varies with the alloy of lead.
My Yuasa bike batteries get 13.4V , because that's what Yuasa say.
 
If the mains charger has been on all night, and the battery is fully charged, should it not go to float?

The Victron starts a new absorption charge cycle every morning when the panel voltage rises above Battery + 5V.

The length of the absorption period depends upon the battery voltage the controller sees when it starts its cycle. If the voltage is above 12.6V (ie virtually fully charged), the absorption period at 14.4V is maximum 1 hour. The absorption period ends before 1 hour if the output of the controller drops below 2A because the battery is fully charged. However, that's never going to happen with my system as my fridge/freezer is drawing 5A almost continuously in this heat.

Richard
 
This is what you should expect. With almost any level of light, the panel should produce an open circuit voltage around or above Vpp. It's the current or power that is proportional to the number of photons hitting the panels.

13.8 is on the high side for 'float' for many batteries.
But if you don't have the mains charger on, it's not what everyone would call true 'float' as the solar charger will rest the batteries at night.
That'll be why Victron design these chargers like that!
Years ago I ruined a battery by leaving it at 13.8V 24/7 for a whole winter.
The exact voltage recommended varies with the alloy of lead.
My Yuasa bike batteries get 13.4V , because that's what Yuasa say.

Yes. I think that a Float at 13.8V is slightly higher than my mains charger (also a Victron) which I think is 13.5V but I guess that's 'cos a mains charger is on 24/7 rather than just daylight hours. The controller has 7 different settings for different battery types but the only one which is below 13.8V is the setting for Lithium Ion Phosphate batteries which is 13.5V. I definitely haven't got any of those onboard. :ambivalence:

Anyway, we're heading for the islands tomorrow so being at anchor will be the first real test. I re-did all the wiring today after the observations above and shortened the thick cables from the controller to the batteries from 2m to about 75cm so that should improve things further.

One thing that I find disconcerting is all the sparking when you connect up the second battery cable and then more sparking when you connect the second solar panel cable. I don't like ramming cables into terminals with sparks flashing in all directions but I can see any simple solution other than turning off the controller when I connect it up ..... but you can't without the special cable. :(

Richard
 
Put a switch in the input cable ?

I would have to put switches in both the panel cable and the battery cable as they both spark ...... and I'm not sure whether that goes with the "max SWG / min resistance" philosophy that others have implored me to follow.

However, now it's all tested and connected I shouldn't need to disturb it again so no more sparks.

Richard
 
One thing that I find disconcerting is all the sparking when you connect up the second battery cable and then more sparking when you connect the second solar panel cable. I don't like ramming cables into terminals with sparks flashing in all directions but I can see any simple solution other than turning off the controller when I connect it up ..... but you can't without the special cable. :(

Richard

I thought the recommended procedure was to cover the solar panels while making connections or disconnections
 
I thought the recommended procedure was to cover the solar panels while making connections or disconnections

There's no mention of that in the Victron manual and covering that area of panelling high up on the bimini with 4 towels would not meet with the Admiral's approval as I doubt that there would still be 4 up there by the time I got connected. :ambivalence:

I did think about waiting until darkness fell but that was not such an attractive prospect either.

In any event, the really big sparking was when connecting up the 600Ah fully-charged house bank and that is done before the solar panels. I don't fancy putting a switch into the 10 sq mm cable you recommended as, after the soldering fiasco, ( http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthrea...Wire-Size-and-Type-for-100w-Solar-Panel/page3 .... post #71) that's not a cable that I want to mess around with. :(

Richard
 
Richard, if you get the cable or dongle you can set the float voltage to whatever you want. Another useful thing that's available is a 30 day log of charging data.
 
Hello,

I need to read this post carefully in order to see if I have to change my settings found here:

http://www.vela-navega.com/index.php/solar-panels

Regards, Luis

Hi Luis

There's no simple answer but my experiments suggest a few best-practice rules relating to the Victron MPPT controllers. I don't know whether the same rules apply to all MPPT controllers but I suspect they do.

1) Use panels in serial to generate as much voltage as possible within the parameters of the controller. In my case that would be 100V. Using a high voltage means that cable losses between the panels and the controller are of much less significance. However, this only applies if either a) none of the panels will be in shade or b) only 1 panel will ever be in shade at one time. As soon as the panels are in a situation where more than 1 will be in shade at the same time, rule 2 kicks in:

2) If two panels or more are going to be in shade at the same time, you need to connect those particular panels in parallel to preserve their output. The panels which will be in shade at the same time should be connected as groups in parallel and those groups connected in series to increase the voltage as much as possible.

Where there are only two panels, you are going to be penalised if both panels are in shade at the same time as you would then have to opt for parallel connection but would then lose the advantages of high voltage. I think that in this situation an MPPT controller is probably a waste of money and a cheaper PWM controller will be satisfactory. However, if there are only two panels it is well worth ensuring that only one can ever be in shade at the same and then the high voltage serial connection makes sense.

As I say, these are just my findings with my 4 panels and with my MPPT controller. This may not be the whole story. :)

Richard
 
As I say, these are just my findings with my 4 panels and with my MPPT controller. This may not be the whole story. :)

Richard

Have you measured current generated by panels and current into batteries for series or parallel layout. Just wondering if the efficiency of the controller for high voltage low amperage input is the same as low voltage high amperage input. At the amperages you are talking about, I am surprised you have large difference in cable volt drop between series and parallel configuration as you are not using minimum cable sizing.

Am quite pleased with myself after reading spec of the Victron MPPT load shedding system for this controller, there the same as the voltages I used in my P4000 battery management system introduced in 1982.

Brian
 
Top